Front Sway Bar Disconnect Install - 80 Series

[Glenn-BJ74]

I finally got around to installing the LCP front sway bar disconnect kit for the 80 series. With the sway bar disconnected the truck will have more wheel travel which helps keeps the tires on the ground for better control and safer wheeling. This can reduce the chance of lifting a wheel, which is always a little unsettling. The kit is designed for 2.5" and higher lifts and I don't think it works with OEM springs.
This mod is very cool and has as a big bang for the buck.

The kit has two pins which are pulled from the axle brackets, which allows the sway bar to be rotated up and secured to the frame away from the moving axle. The sway bar can be disconnected while airing down before hitting the trail. I will make sure I carry a 5'x8' tarp in wet or muddy conditions to work under the truck.

Clevis Pin with the locking hitch pin is this one.

The locking wire pin is this one

To install the kit - I removed the two M10 bolts and flange nuts connecting the sway bar to the top of the axle. Make sure the bushing assembles are not seized or stiff to move the sway bar front to back as it is designed to do. The sway bar is still attached to the frame with the bushing assembly, but when disconnected from the axle the sway bar can rotate up and down and back and forth (with some effort).

Then I installed the two steel brackets from the kit which are bolted below the frame with the supplied M8x1.25 bolts into the 4 prethreaded factory holes. When the sway bar is disconnected it can be rotated up and can be secured to the two brackets up and out of the way of the articulating front axle. (Some picture off the web).

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

On axles with lockers, the sway bar attachment to the axle clearance on the right side is very tight, so the kit comes with a clevis pin and hitch pin. The hitch pin locks the clevis pin in place and is attached to the right side of the sway bar with small wire cable. This makes pulling the hitch pin from the clevis pin easy for the right side (just pull the cable) and manually remove the clevis pin.

Left Side can use lock pin.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

The (1 piece) wire lock pin can be used on the left side side, where there is more clearance. When the sway bar is disconnected it can held up with either the wire lock pin or clevis pin and hitch pin to the brackets attached to the frame. I have installed the kit and connected and disconnected the sway bar on level ground - takes about 2 minutes with a little practice to learn the technique.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Important Points

1. When connecting and disconnecting the sway bar - it should be done on level ground, otherwise the sway bar will be twisted and next to impossible to disconnect or reconnect.
2. When installed - checked the sway bar to front drive shaft clearance at full droop to see if there any front driveshaft interference. With trucks with more than the mild 2" lift, front sway bar drops are required when the sway bar is disconnected and rotated up.
3. When Disconnecting From Axle = Left side first (this reduces the stress on the tight clearance right side).
4. When Connecting to the Axle - Do right side first.
5. The sway bar bushing assembly (holding the sway bar to frame) allows considerable front and back movement to align the holes (requires effort).

I now need to cycle the suspension to check for any interference or binding prior to using it on the trail. I will report back.

Here is Phil's rig, the the developer of the kit- lookin' good.

 

[Fantom]

Did you make that yourself?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Thanks Glen on the great write up

Our testing has shown a 15% gain in articulation. Great value for $100 shipped to CDN

Pictured below our testing at a Toyota dealership using a Toyota fork lift
Tire is 30" off the ground with all other tires grounded. Not bad for an 80 camper. YMMV

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Did you make that yourself?

No, available here -
Swaybar Disconnects - Land Cruiser Products - LCP

Order direct ... or save $20 plus 12% taxes and get them shipped to a border freight forwarder as I do.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Initial Evaluation

I went out late yesterday to see how the truck performs with the front sway bar disconnected.

To eliminate the effect of low air pressure, I drove up the trail with pavement air (50 psi). I found a nice rubblely uphill trail, with 6"-10" rocks and moderate holes and immediately noticed the front axle getting more traction and that the axle was more easily complying with the irregular trail surface. Although there was a bit more lateral body sway, the truck seemed more sure footed and comfortable than with the sway bar connected. I was pleasantly surprised and would consider this a major improvement given its simplicity.

On the way to the trail I drove on paved country roads and as expected found greater body roll in the corners. That was fine and predictable. Through one curve I simulated an emergency directional change and found the upper body lean lurched the truck in a very unpredictable manner that was very surprising. From that test I conclude that driving at higher speed with the front sway bar disconnected is not recommended. In an extreme situation requiring an abrupt directional change in the middle of turn on a high traction surfaces, could be very dangerous.

When I first got my leaf-sprung BJ74, I experimented with the sway bar connected and disconnected and unlike the 80, I did not find a big advantage over just leaving it connected. I am speculating my heavy sprung BJ74 had less inherent wheel travel, so there would be less to be gained from running the sway bar disconnected.

Conclusion

My initial impression is this a awesome mod and helps keep the truck more stable (safer) for rough irregular trail surfaces. Given its cost-effectiveness and simplicity, this should be done before investing in more expensive mods, such bigger tires and lockers.

 

[DominicanFZJ80]

Great write-up and detailed install photos.

 

[Iceaxe]

I tell you what- take your rig on a serious trail for several days at a time and see what happens. Be sure to check your brake lines before you return to the pavement,

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Yes it is very important to cycle your suspension the correct way to ensure everything clears.

Cycling your suspension after installing disconnects <clickable link

 

[Iceaxe]

Phil, you have people who disagree that is the "fix". Anyone who elects to purchase and use this product should know they are risking rupture of their brake lines if the rig is taken on higher difficulty trails.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Phil, you have people who disagree that is the "fix". Anyone who elects to purchase and use this product should know they are risking rupture of their brake lines if the rig is taken on higher difficulty trails.

If modifications are done that increase suspension travel, wouldn't it make sense to replace current brake lines with longer
lines, and any other required modifications as well. Driveshaft and shocks come to mind. Maybe not for something as simple as
a sway bar disconnect, but again it could be.

 

[Iceaxe]

Of course you could. The issue is not the brake line but the cotter pins used in this product. The pins are prone to disconnect if you wheel hard. It's as simple as that. If you use bolts with nylon nuts, I doubt there would be an issue. These pins do not have a way to fully secure the pin, so the clasp comes out, and the loose sway bar will do its damage. I had to have a welder remove my sway bar anchor points and replace them after the damage.

If modifications are done that increase suspension travel, wouldn't it make sense to replace current brake lines with longer
lines, and any other required modifications as well. Driveshaft and shocks come to mind. Maybe not for something as simple as
a sway bar disconnect, but again it could be.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I misunderstood what you were saying, oops. J

 

[Fantom]

So the $100 kit is a few pins (about $2.50-3.50 each), 2 aircraft cable loops, 4 bolts and 2 angle iron pieces with a welded piece of flat bar and 3 holes each?

....my bad, the $80USD kit...

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Iceaxe - I want to understand what you are saying? - are you are saying wheeling hard with the sway bar disconnected (in the up position) - can cause problems ?? How
- if one of the locking wire pins falls out there are two and if both fall out, which is a very low probability - the sway bar bangs around making some noise giving the driver notice 'something is wrong' down there.
- or are you wheeling hard with the sway bar connected with the locking wire pin and clevis and hitch pin? Why would you do that??
- if you wanted to wheel hard with the sway bar attached it would be simple enough to put OEM bolts in for that, but why - defeats the purpose of the kit.

 

[Vanny]

Iceaxe - I want to understand what you are saying? - are you are saying wheeling hard with the sway bar disconnected (in the up position) - can cause problems ?? How
- if one of the locking wire pins falls out there are two and if both fall out, which is a very low probability - the sway bar bangs around making some noise giving the driver notice 'something is wrong' down there.
- or are you wheeling hard with the sway bar connected with the locking wire pin and clevis and hitch pin? Why would you do that??
- if you wanted to wheel hard with the sway bar attached it would be simple enough to put OEM bolts in for that, but why - defeats the purpose of the kit.

Awaiting Iceaxe's reply?

 

[Cruisin']

I'm curious what Iceaxe is talking about as well. I ran disconnects on my old truck for years with no issues, and the pins I used were not as secure as what this kit comes with.

I have heard that wheeling hard with the sway bar connected can cause the axle end mounts to rip off which can damage brake lines. Can't see anything having issues when the bar is up.

Anyhow, I agree with Glenn's initial thoughts about wheeling with the bar disconnected. Truck feels more balanced and the axle articulates much more easily. And it is spooky driving on highway at speed with it off. Feels like driving a big bucket of water, especially when you get hit by a cross wind.

 

[Enigma]

When I did the Rubicon back in 2011, I ripped one of the REAR sway bar mounts off and then removed it for the entire trip. I left the front one attached (I think I attempted to remove but a stubborn bolt had me abort the operation). I'd consider that trail pretty hard 'wheeling, and aside from several body damage dents...NO issues with anything else.