Front Speakers?

[Sandroad]

As noted in this Crutchfield article, impedence matching is not an exact science.

Car Amplifiers FAQ

When you replace the M.L. speakers, don't worry too much about finding a perfect impedence match. I use Infinity speakers whenever I install replacements. The Reference series is typically 4 ohm and the Kappa series are typically 2 ohm. I've never had any trouble driving them with any amp. But, I've had no experience with the M.L. system.

As to the previous post on blowing speakers; they may be ways to destroy them with heat/distortion, but the only way I've ever done it is with high volume into speakers with old cone surrounds. The foam/tape just distintegrates and the cone starts flopping around.

 

[maxdog1969]

Good news, the 4ohms Polk audio 6.5 sounds much better than the stock ever did, however the 8" Polk sub shuts the amp off at certain volume level as indicated by other Mud members. However, the 8" polk sub sounded so good When it played. Making progress! Still have to fool with the mounting template, screw holes don't line up may have to custom make one tomorrow.

 

[maxdog1969]

This is the set up I am trying

 

[marshotel]

As noted in this Crutchfield article, impedence matching is not an exact science.

Car Amplifiers FAQ

When you replace the M.L. speakers, don't worry too much about finding a perfect impedence match.

I agree. Do not worry too much about impedence matching. Generally, if you are within +/- ~50% of the originally spec'd impedence value then you will not damage anything.

Just replace the speakers in pairs (left and right) and you really do not need to worry about the nominal impedence of the speakers, provided you use normal consumer-grade speakers and only hook up one speaker to each output on your amp.

 

[maxdog1969]

I ended up using Alpine 610 6.5 2-way 4 ohm and it worked beautifully, for the sub, I took the enclosure out completely and mounted a kicker 500.1 amp in there, used hi level input to low level input apparatus for signal to that amp and powered a 10" polk audio dbx sub in a sealed enclosure about 3/4 cubic foot. I also ran a power distribution block with 40 amp agu fuse for power in the back to run my accessories like fridge and etc... Happy with the upgrade so far.

 

[2003TLC]

no bass?

Hi guys,

I had my front passenger stock JBL speaker go out on my 2003 TLC. So I read some of the post on here and ordered the Polk DB651s. Well I got around to installing the passenger side speaker using the speaker install writeup as a guide and before putting the door panel back on, tested it out. The new Polk speaker has significantly less bass than the stock driver side front speaker at the same volume. I use the audio controls to toggle back and forth between the two front speakers and it is quite noticeable. Anyone notice this as well or have any ideas what might be going on?

thanks,
Dave

 

[Liam]

Hi guys,

I had my front passenger stock JBL speaker go out on my 2003 TLC. So I read some of the post on here and ordered the Polk DB651s. Well I got around to installing the passenger side speaker using the speaker install writeup as a guide and before putting the door panel back on, tested it out. The new Polk speaker has significantly less bass than the stock driver side front speaker at the same volume. I use the audio controls to toggle back and forth between the two front speakers and it is quite noticeable. Anyone notice this as well or have any ideas what might be going on?

thanks,
Dave

you bought a 4 Ohm speaker, you need a 2 Ohm. I did the same thing and it sounded like s***.

 

[2003TLC]

you bought a 4 Ohm speaker, you need a 2 Ohm. I did the same thing and it sounded like ****.

A lot of the posts I'm reading say that 4 Ohm speakers should work fine. I don't know enough about audio to know why the Ohm rating matters, but the stock ones were indeed 2 Ohm. After installing the new ones and adjusting the audio settings (more bass, less mid/treble), they do sound much clearer than the stock ones ever did, but that deep bass isn't there.

 

[RobRed]

A 4 ohm driver will simply take more power to drive a certain volume level. Under some conditions a severe mismatch (this isn't) will cause amplifier shutdown under load. Overall it's best to match what was there and what the amp is designed for.

 

[Liam]

A lot of the posts I'm reading say that 4 Ohm speakers should work fine. I don't know enough about audio to know why the Ohm rating matters, but the stock ones were indeed 2 Ohm. After installing the new ones and adjusting the audio settings (more bass, less mid/treble), they do sound much clearer than the stock ones ever did, but that deep bass isn't there.

A 4 ohm driver will simply take more power to drive a certain volume level. Under some conditions a severe mismatch (this isn't) will cause amplifier shutdown under load. Overall it's best to match what was there and what the amp is designed for.

what Rob said.

The amp is already underpowered, putting 4 Ohm makes it even worse. As i said, i put 4 Ohm speakers in and they worked, but they didn't sound good and the volume was low coming out of them. When i replaced them with 2 Ohm it was night and day difference.

and now that i put a 5 channel amp in they sound incredible.

 

[Liam]

one other thing. From what i was told at the car stereo place all of the high end speakers are now only mainly producing 2 Ohm speaker systems

 

[2003TLC]

thanks very much, guys! Ok, so can anyone recommend a good set of 2 Ohm speakers that will work? Preferably some with mounting holes that line up with the stock mounts.

 

[Liam]

thanks very much, guys! Ok, so can anyone recommend a good set of 2 Ohm speakers that will work? Preferably some with mounting holes that line up with the stock mounts.

I went with Infinities. think i paid $139/pair.

Infinity - Car Audio

 

[Liam]

Infinity 6032si 6-1/2" Reference Series Shallow-Mount Speakers

just found this. here is a cheap price for them

 

[RobRed]

Amazon has them (Infinity Reference 6032si) at $59 and a marketplace seller at $47

 

[liveoak]

I installed aftermarket electronics as my job for over 15 years (not any more) and impedance matching is most important when the stock speaker has a lower impedance than a higher one. A lot of stock speakers are 8 ohm and when they are replaced by the common 4 ohm matched to the factory unit they sound way better because they are drawing more power at the same volume level than stock. You should never replace a stock speaker with a higher impedance unless you are replacing the head unit and/or installing an aftermarket amplifier. I know this is what rob red said I just want to agree and add my 2 pennies.

 

[bluecruiser]

So if I have an aftermarket deck (newer Sony) but am using the stock amp, I should get the 2ohm speakers, right?

Thanks

 

[liveoak]

it depends on what factory system you have. the 2003 doesn't have the same sytem as a 2000 for instance. if you have an older model i would replace the factory amp if you've replaced the factory head unit. the factory amp is under the passenger seat on my 2000. it is very small and underpowered. mixing factory components with aftermarket should only be done if you are stuck with an integrated head unit. i will check my factory speakers on my 2000 to see what impedance they are unless you already know.

in short, the first thing you need is an aftermarket amp that fits under the seat, then you can replace the speakers with the more common aftermarket choices(usually 4ohm) that will fit of course.

i see now you have a 99. we are lucky as we can easily replace the entire factory system in our trucks. we don't have to deal with the headaches the later models have.

 

[bluecruiser]

My truck is a 1999. I was not trying to go all super audio upgrade, if I could just put in some speakers with what I have now and it sounded better, I would be happy.

 

[Liam]

just change out your door speakers with decent 2 Ohm speakers. done and done.