Front Speaker Crossovers (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Emcd
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If it is the OEM, then there is no crossover box - it is the cheap solution with a capacitor in line with the tweeter (mounted at the tweeter terminal)
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If you use the OEM tweeter and add a crossover box, remember to remove the capacitor at the terminal of the tweeter.
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- #7
I've replaced both the 6.5 and the factory tweeters with Polk units. On the PS, the tweeter gets too much base and make a sound like it blown at higher volumes. I assume w/o a crossover, it's getting too much base, thus adding one will let me divide the signals to each component.
i had that issue as well. Used infinity Kappa components at 2ohm for a good load on the factory amp.
what i ended up doing was using the crossover only for the tweeters. Basically route the factory tweeter wire to the input on the crossover and wire up the new tweeter on the tweeter side of the crossover. using this method yielded the best sound. Also, play around with phase, i gained a lot of bass back from the front left woofer by switching the + - wires on it, basically reversing polarity.
for some reason, when putting both speakers on the crossover, it sounded considerably more muffled, so i went with the method described above.
So yes, they use the cheap way of using an inline capacitor on the factory tweeters. i think it's a series/parallel wiring job from the amp or somewhere along the line (still waiting on my service manuals to find out for sure).
Eventually i'll be replacing this all with a line output converter and adding amps to the system. i need higher output (windows down cruising) and more xover control for the high and low pass filters.
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- #9
Dude! I did the Polk crossover this morning. It made a huge difference. my stereo now sounds like I wanted/expected it to. I was thinking I needed a sub with a dedicated amp, now I believe it would be a waste of time and resources. it's too bad, I just installed 2x4.5" speakers in the stock subwoofer location. The Jensen wiring harness doesn't have an outlet for a sub, only an RCA to feel to an amp for a dedicated sub.
oh yeah, most people stop at the speakers. the difference is day and night! That's what happens when your surrounds are torn. no pressure=no bass.
im still looking into getting a woofer. i might gut the factory enclosure and fabricate an amp rack in there and keep the sub in the cargo area. Not an ideal solution at all, but it works.
im still looking into getting a woofer. i might gut the factory enclosure and fabricate an amp rack in there and keep the sub in the cargo area. Not an ideal solution at all, but it works.
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- #11
the 2x4.5's I have are regular 2 way speakers. I figured anything is better than blown subs. with a small amp, you think they'll throw out a decent amount of base? I'm just being cheap, but I'd like to use what I have. I cannot believe how much better it sounds. this was not a difficult job after ALI80 helped me with the amp bypass. I rewired it to be cleaner after he left for a camping trip.
A subwoofer needs to be externally amplified. They need way more power than what a head unit can supply.
Where did you install the new tweeter's I haven't done this this before but would like to install something similar. Found some good prices on infinity speakers on Ebay. IF you have them, I would love to see pictures. Any more insight on the install is appreciated. Thanks
I just looked through my photos and i don't have any that show the crossover. Mine were Infiniti kappa and they were small, but in my case i put them next to the woofer on the elevated panel.
Look at the door panel that you took off, there's a space right next to the speaker grill, that's where i put it on the door.
For example, on the drivers door, if you're looking at the woofer straight on, the crossover is on its 9 o'clock position.
I hope this helps.
Look at the door panel that you took off, there's a space right next to the speaker grill, that's where i put it on the door.
For example, on the drivers door, if you're looking at the woofer straight on, the crossover is on its 9 o'clock position.
I hope this helps.
Has anyone else done it this way? Looking to change out a busted tweeter and can’t seem to find definitive answer as to whether crossover is necessary and if it is if this is the best way for tweeter-only.
It's possible the door woofer is already bandpassed by the factory amp, etc. I wouldn't be surprised if that were the case.
The inline capacitor (-6db/octave high pass filter) with the tweeter seems unnecessary if the system is actively managed, though, so I don't know what to believe. I'd probably run the component crossover and see how it sounds.
I need to find the pics of my front doors, but here are the rears dismantled. You will get the idea of how to mount the crossovers for the fronts.
The crossovers are matched to your speakers. The cutoff points on the factory speakers are not the same as newer aftermarket speakers.
On my '03 I used external crossovers all the way around and it sounds proper. On my'05 I did not use the external crossovers provided up front and it does not sound as good as my '03.
I would recommend using the external crossovers and bypass the factory setup.
