Front Shock Spacer - Increased Suspension Stroke?
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
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I agree with this but would still like to confirm. I’ve had the spacers for a long time and haven’t noticed any sharp hits as though the struts are reaching the end of their travel before the bump stops, but I haven’t pushed mine very hard at higher speeds off-road either.
Access to a RTI ramp should help figure it out, or testing travel with no spring installed.
What size spacers did you end up using front and back?
Installing the spacer on my LX currently. Was able to confirm that the spacers absolutely increase suspension stroke by giving more droop travel. Pretty awesome for such a cheap mod.
Measured 21.125" from top of brake hub to fender stock. 21.875" after.
.75" gained in droop travel! On the more constrained front axle! That may not seem like much but it can surely help the already astounding RTI of the 200-series platform and maintaining traction. Enhance compression travel on whoops.
So the tools necessary for this job are the spring compressor? And that's it?
Installing the spacer on my LX currently. Was able to confirm that the spacers absolutely increase suspension stroke by giving more droop travel. Pretty awesome for such a cheap mod.
Measured 21.125" from top of brake hub to fender stock. 21.875" after.
.75" gained in droop travel! On the more constrained front axle! That may not seem like much but it can surely help the already astounding RTI of the 200-series platform and maintaining traction. Enhance compression travel on whoops.
- Thread starter
- #26
No spring compressor necessary. I wasn't getting enough droop to release the top hat of the coilover and tried to cheat. The right solution was to release 1 of the two inboard lower control arm bushings (don't need to do both per the video), and the end link of the sway bar at the LCA.
Need a full complement of wrenches, socket sets, and torque wrenches as this is practically a full suspension job to install the spacer.
Here's the best reference I found. Another big thank you to @OTRAMM
Need a full complement of wrenches, socket sets, and torque wrenches as this is practically a full suspension job to install the spacer.
Here's the best reference I found. Another big thank you to @OTRAMM
I've been meaning to do bushings anyhow. But something like this must go on the shoulder season work plan. Thanks for the link.
- Thread starter
- #28
Sorry missed this. I'm using the OEM LC leveling spacer up front. And a 20mm spring spacer out back.
Spacers to maintain and add payload capacity while doing a mild .5"F and .75"R lift (via AHC sensor lift).
Been looking for something just like this, including all of your comments, so thank you very much! Got my accumulators from Japan today!!! Literally took less than a week! Together with my 10mm front shock spacers, (i need to order some 20mm for the rear, but maybe 30mm?), and the E&E rear shock extenders. All of those with an appropriate sensor lift and I should be able to dial the pressure back to stock. I'm able to find the pressures for the AHC at each wheel in TechStream, which is how I readjusted it previously (adjust and readjust, manually). Oh, and I already have the BOTCK from Dr. KDSS.
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Bumping this -- curious what exactly we need besides extended brake lines for the E&E rear shock extenders. Exactly what bump stops and what spring spacers?
And for the front, just the spacer?
You don't technically need extended lines for the E&E shock extenders, but if you couple it with an AHC lift, they may become desired (if stock lines are overextended). I'm running PerryParts bump stops with 25mm of spring spacers on the rear.
On the front, the spacer from E&E that's 13mm is probably the way to go (I have a 10mm currently and some 6mm's that I intend to stack from Kaon Australia). I also have the PerryParts bump stops on the front.
For the rear spacers I recommend the following:
Brake lines (these are for a tundra which are already longer than the 200 series and then 2" longer)
SS-TUN7 - Stainless Steel Extended Rear Brake Lines (07-21 Tundra)
Vehicle Fitment: 2007-2021 Tundra
toyteclifts.com
Rear axle breather line
This fuel line works
Amazon.com: PRO 1 Fuel Line Hose 1/4 Inch Inside Diameter X 5 Feet Length NRB/PVCC SAE30R6 : Industrial & Scientific
Buy PRO 1 Fuel Line Hose 1/4 Inch Inside Diameter X 5 Feet Length NRB/PVCC SAE30R6: Hydraulic Hoses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Bumps
Extended length shock option
You will probably want a panhard bar correction kit, like the Dr. KDDS one.
B.O.T.C.K - Bolt On TrackBar Correction kit Land Cruiser 200 series/ LX 570
Fits: Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series & Lexus LX 570 What It Does Fixes that sketchy, side-to-side axle swing after a lift. Brings your track bar (panhard bar) back to a more natural, level position. Keeps your rig tracking straight, planted, and predictable on-road and off.Bolt-on design — no...
drkdss.com
For the front spacer you will be fine unless you go to Tundra arms, then you would need extended lines.
I use these on mine, which are for a 100 series, but worked fine for the 200 series.
Goodridge 2-21127 G-Stop Ss Braided Brake Line Kit
Goodridge 221127 G-Stop Ss Braided Brake Line Kit
It's been a while, but I am seriously looking into getting a 2020 LX570 and have a potentially stupid question regarding the front shock spacer.
- would it be a dumb idea to cut a slot in the spacer for install to avoid having to bleed and disconnect/reconnect the system?
- would it be a dumb idea to cut a slot in the spacer for install to avoid having to bleed and disconnect/reconnect the system?
I don't own an LX but from what I remember looking at my friend's, this still wouldn't work. The AHC tube into the top of the strut shaft is at a right angle, and I'm pretty sure you wouldn't be able to pull the strut down far enough for the studs to clear their holes in the spring/strut mount on the frame, let alone get down far enough to deal with the downward "cup" shape of that mount to slide the spacer in between it and the top hat of the strut.
I was thinking that when you drop the shock down and feed the tube down through the top hole just enough to clear the line through the slot, it could then be positioned on the studs and everything pushed back up into place for reassembly.
I was just curious if this would work. It might be a dumb idea, but I stopped driving my LC200 and have been driving an Ineos for the last 2 years, so I clearly have mental issues. 
I have yet to install mine, but I don’t think you can get the spacer in without taking the shock out and you can’t do that without removing the hydraulic line.
I thought about that approach (or even cutting it in half), but after adding the spacers, I can tell you for certain that you won't be able to get a spacer into the bucket without removing the hydraulic line, and even then you can't just "slip it in".