Front Runner Table on Slee Rear Bumper? (1 Viewer)

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guardcompany

guardcompany

Shea
Joined
Dec 18, 2015
Threads
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Location
San Diego, CA
Anyone running a Front Runner drop down table on a Slee rear ladder swing out? If so how did you mount it?

I see it needs to be mounted off to one side to provide enough clearance for the rear light. Did you use the provided s***ty hardware? U-bolts? Or should I just put the hurting on some IPAs are just wing it with some self tappers? :beer:
 
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I haven't mounted one on a Slee ladder or arm, but have installed a few on other custom bumpers I've built. The table needs to have the center and ends fixed/fastened to something solid. Otherwise it rattles, wiggles and the drop down will end up coming loose and hitting the body while on a dirt or rough road. I'd recommend adding a spring loaded pin to make sure the table doesn't break loose. They are designed to be fixed to the inside of a door or tailgate with several fasteners.

Also change out the wooden slide board with a plastic cutting board material or SeaDeck if you want to use it more than a couple of times.

J
 
reevesci said:
I haven't mounted one on a Slee ladder or arm, but have installed a few on other custom bumpers I've built. The table needs to have the center and ends fixed/fastened to something solid. Otherwise it rattles, wiggles and the drop down will end up coming loose and hitting the body while on a dirt or rough road. I'd recommend adding a spring loaded pin to make sure the table doesn't break loose. They are designed to be fixed to the inside of a door or tailgate with several fasteners.

Also change out the wooden slide board with a plastic cutting board material or SeaDeck if you want to use it more than a couple of times.

J
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Thanks for the intel! I'm thinking u-bolts on 4 corners. I like the spring loaded pin idea.

As for the wood slide board, yeah it sucks. For now I plan on sanding it down well, staining it and hitting it with some polyurethane. That should buy me a couple seasons. I won't be using it to cut food, just more table space.
 
guardcompany said:
Thanks for the intel! I'm thinking u-bolts on 4 corners. I like the spring loaded pin idea.

As for the wood slide board, yeah it sucks. For now I plan on sanding it down well, staining it and hitting it with some polyurethane. That should buy me a couple seasons. I won't be using it to cut food, just more table space.
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Make sure you seal it good. Mine got wet and it swelled up. I has to break it out.

J
 
reevesci said:
Make sure you seal it good. Mine got wet and it swelled up. I has to break it out.

J
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I can see that. Thanks for the tip. Yeah its plywood. For the price there isn't anything else like it on the market so why not... If I absolutely love having a table there I'll upgrade. Yours still holding up?
 
guardcompany said:
I can see that. Thanks for the tip. Yeah its plywood. For the price there isn't anything else like it on the market so why not... If I absolutely love having a table there I'll upgrade. Yours still holding up?
Click to expand...

Fair. I've had to replace both the cables. It gets pinched, cut and then it frays. I've had to continually tweak the snap clips to keep them tight. Powder is holding up well. Like you said, for the money its not a bad product. Just needs some upgrades for full exterior use and abuse.

J
 
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

Page 504 of this thread.

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Jesus, this thing sounds like a ******* nightmare. Is it really worth it?
 
Mine is fine also, I did mount it (ubolts) with a slight curve and the clasps are tight tight. I haven't remade a true waterproof table but will do so using the current one as a router template. :banana: (If you do wood working.)
 
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man that thing is slick..... ordering one for sure..... as soon as I have a swing out... and a bumper
 
FYI, you don't need a tool for nut-serts. Just screw in a bolt with a nut and washer already on it and then tighten the nut against the nut-sert. That will pull the inside of the sert to compress it on the back side. Put a few drops of oil on the bolt, nut, and washer to reduce friction. Socket head bolts are best since they are heat treated and stronger.
 
I only mount mine when I need it - camping.
Two short studs drilled and tack welded through and to the Slee cross member with matching holes drilled in the cover of the table.
Mounted with wing nuts. I safely store the table in one of the my ARB drawers.
Quick, secure and simple.

Now - the real issue is having to remove the jerry cans from their holder on the other side of the table....inches from the open flame of my stove. :doh:

20170824_154831[1].jpg
 
OverlandTrax said:
Wanted to thank everyone for such a great idea, finally finished up the kitchen on the rig!
View attachment 2713002View attachment 2713003View attachment 2713004
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OverlandTrax said:
Wanted to thank everyone for such a great idea, finally finished up the kitchen on the rig!
View attachment 2713002View attachment 2713003View attachment 2713004
Click to expand...
OverlandTrax, great setup. Would love to do same on mine. Any pictures of the attachment points to ladder? Also, propane attachment? Thx
 
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