Front pinion bearing replacement. (1 Viewer)

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They are a Land rover shop , but they seem to work on all rigs. I live in VT so my choices are limited. They have a rep as the best around. I am on vacation next week so i will dig in a bit deeper then. always seems like :worms:when I start a project at 7pm in the gravel with kids running around:)


Rodney?
 
Not sure who Rodney is? 4x4 Center in Burlington is where I am taking the rig. On a side note my daughter and I wired up my inverter that I had from a previous vehicles. Blue Sea fuse panel made easy work of that
 
If you're asking me, then odds are that I will get my first R&P set up correctly, because according to your definition I am not ignorant, nor stupid, but I am wise enough to broaden my limits to the point of having enough knowledge, and mechanical aptitude, to do it correctly. Had I calculated my time spent at my hourly rate researching diff building and asking qualified mechanics the whys and whats of a diff building... I doubt I'll break even on even my 2nd build. I might get a case of beer out of one I build for a buddy one day. What I will get is taking pride in my work and a sense of accomplishment.

Catch a fish for a man and he eats for a day, teach a man how to fish and he eats for life.

This is a perfect example of why a newb shouldn't do this. Yes EVERYONE is a newb at some point.......
Rear Differential Carnage

Do what you want. I used to do it to "save money"....... I don't rebuild my own any longer.
 
Hello! I hail from the 60 series branch. I got 80 series rear and front axle assemblies to swap under my 60. The rear appears to be in great shape but the front, not so much. It is a factory locked 1992, or 93, can't remember. I pulled the drain plug and found a minor amount of metal fuzz stuck to it.

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That's because IT WAS TOTALLY DRY!!!!! Not a drop of oil came out. So I filled it up with the old oil from the rear diff which appears to be in great shape. I turned the drive flange a bunch of times to mix things up and drained again. Some more fuzz stuck to it and the oil definitely came out darker. But no chunks.

I stuck my scope camera up the drain hole and from the minimal amount I could see the gears seem ok. Maybe because it was just turning without 4wd engaged there was no force applied? So it didn't wreck it?

There is a lot of backlash. The rear axle has hardly any. The two photos below show how much the drive flange turns before a rotor starts moving, maybe 60 degrees. Could also be the birfs contributing too I guess.

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The drive flange wiggles a bit. I'm thinking at a minimum I will need to replace the pinion seal. But the bearing would have spun dry which probably means it's toast since it wiggles a bit?

Is that amount of backlash normal?

There is a cruiser specialist here I could take it to for a diff rebuild ( I can do the knuckles etc.). Not sure how I'll get it all there, it weighs over 400 lb. Does it need to be rebuilt along with the axles or can I just take in the third?

I could put manual hubs on it then unlock them so I could still drive the truck around with the diff not spinning right? Since it's pre-93 I don't have to worry about shortening the axle shafts and machining a new groove to accommodate the manual hubs. That way I'll be able to drive it to the shop, but it will be a little while before I can get the new axle mounted under the 60 since brackets need to be procured and welded on the frame.

I ordered this from a wrecker in the interior of BC and it was given a class A rating.
 

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