Hello! I hail from the 60 series branch. I got 80 series rear and front axle assemblies to swap under my 60. The rear appears to be in great shape but the front, not so much. It is a factory locked 1992, or 93, can't remember. I pulled the drain plug and found a minor amount of metal fuzz stuck to it.
That's because
IT WAS TOTALLY DRY!!!!! Not a drop of oil came out. So I filled it up with the old oil from the rear diff which appears to be in great shape. I turned the drive flange a bunch of times to mix things up and drained again. Some more fuzz stuck to it and the oil definitely came out darker. But no chunks.
I stuck my scope camera up the drain hole and from the minimal amount I could see the gears seem ok. Maybe because it was just turning without 4wd engaged there was no force applied? So it didn't wreck it?
There is a lot of backlash. The rear axle has hardly any. The two photos below show how much the drive flange turns before a rotor starts moving, maybe 60 degrees. Could also be the birfs contributing too I guess.
The drive flange wiggles a bit. I'm thinking at a minimum I will need to replace the pinion seal. But the bearing would have spun dry which probably means it's toast since it wiggles a bit?
Is that amount of backlash normal?
There is a cruiser specialist here I could take it to for a diff rebuild ( I can do the knuckles etc.). Not sure how I'll get it all there, it weighs over 400 lb. Does it need to be rebuilt along with the axles or can I just take in the third?
I could put manual hubs on it then unlock them so I could still drive the truck around with the diff not spinning right? Since it's pre-93 I don't have to worry about shortening the axle shafts and machining a new groove to accommodate the manual hubs. That way I'll be able to drive it to the shop, but it will be a little while before I can get the new axle mounted under the 60 since brackets need to be procured and welded on the frame.
I ordered this from a wrecker in the interior of BC and it was given a class A rating.