Front parking lights are not working -- why?

[Reinhardtius]

Hi Folks,

I recently I noticed that the front parking lights under the front turn signals are not illuminating. I removed the lenses and the bulbs are OK. They worked two months ago, and now, they do not.

What could be the culprit? All fuses are also in good shape. Do these have a relay somewhere, and if so, where? Other ideas?

Cheers,

Reinhardtius

 

[coldtaco]

I would think they run off of a combined relay. Do the tail lights work? I think they are on the same circuit. Are sockets clean? Chase the wires as much as you can to make sure there is no damage.

 

[Reinhardtius]

I would think they run off of a combined relay. Do the tail lights work? I think they are on the same circuit. Are sockets clean? Chase the wires as much as you can to make sure there is no damage.

Tail lights work flawlessly. Sockets looked clean too. I can get in there and clean them again and try to trace the wires. It is odd that the ones up front don't work, but everything else does, don't you think?

 

[coldtaco]

yeah. If you can figure out the proper relay, then you could check continuity to the wires going to the front. Those should be to the right of the steering column under the dash. Probably head light relay?

 

[SNLC]

Bad wire connection or plug. Start at the signal assembly. If it is good there take the clam shell off the column and check the big flat wire connector bolted to the column.

Cheers

 

[NCFJ]

I agree with Ian. The fact that both are not working leads me up the harness to a connector. If all other lights in the circuit are operational the point where the front lights connect would be my first suspect. I'd also check for bad grounds on that circuit as well.

 

[Reinhardtius]

Bad wire connection or plug. Start at the signal assembly. If it is good there take the clam shell off the column and check the big flat wire connector bolted to the column.

Cheers

I got sidetracked and did not look into this last March. I will soon, though.

1. @RMP&O, what exactly should I look for at the signal assembly? To diagnose the source of the issue, I suspect I need a good but not overkill 24v compatible multi-meter, right?
2. Which multi-meter would you suggest I pick up?
3. Could this issue be producing a parasitic draw? I have noticed recently that when the truck is cold and I glow it, I have to glow it twice, and it turns over VERY slowly, almost stopping, and then fires right up. I usually drive the truck once a week, so it sits awhile between uses. Could my batteries be draining from this issue? Turning the truck off, the starter turns the motor over on the next go with no problem, even if the engine has only been idling for 10 seconds.

The 3B engine manual says that it could be one of the following, but what do you think?

 

[jblueridge]

It might be good to get battery clamps and cables off the batteries and clean them.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...workchoice-battery-terminal-cleaner/80497_0_0

I also got one of these to eliminate charged battery guesswork.
NOCO - 7.2A Battery Charger and Maintainer - G7200

Look for ground wires, get them loose and clean the metal connections. There's an important one running from the front battery's negative post to the body of the truck.

 

[GreaseMonkeyJP]

A good multi meter is valuable, but often the faster method is just to use a circuit tester (basically just a bulb with wires attached) You just put one end on a known good power or ground and place the other on the unkown power or ground. It is a super fast way to see if the problem is on the power supply line or the ground side, and then be able to go down the wiring to find where that side stops working.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I removed the lenses and the bulbs are OK

Did you test the bulbs ? 7* series front park lights tend to need changing almost every year due to bad earths and moisture.
After owning 3 7* series, I buy the bulbs buy the box.

 

[Reinhardtius]

Did you test the bulbs ? 7* series front park lights tend to need changing almost every year due to bad earths and moisture.
After owning 3 7* series, I buy the bulbs buy the box.

I did not test the bulbs, but I will. The filament looked to be intact in both. Wouldn't it be odd that both light bulbs needed changing at the same exact time? I'll test them, though, after I pick up a circuit tester, clean the contacts all around, and recharge the batteries.

I wonder if this ground problem is part of my slow-to-start issue... does a bad ground drain the battery? I am incompetent when it comes to electrical.

Thanks, everyone,

Reinhardtius

 

[JuanJ]

Did you test the bulbs ? 7* series front park lights tend to need changing almost every year due to bad earths and moisture.
After owning 3 7* series, I buy the bulbs buy the box.

Hello,

x2.

Front and rear park lights have this habit of burning out at the same time.

Yes, a filament can look deceivingly healthy. A bad ground drains the battery and increases engine cranking time.

POs are likely to mess with ground connections in the dashboard. However, it makes for a good chance to take it apart and check using the factory service manual.






Juan

 

[Reinhardtius]

Hello,

x2.

Front and rear park lights have this habit of burning out at the same time.

Yes, a filament can look deceivingly healthy. A bad ground drains the battery and increases engine cranking time.

How strange. OK. I will order two bulbs and see if it solves it. Otherwise, I will
I can see that these are called CLEARANCE lights, not parking lights, for the record. The have a part number of
90981-16016 and are 24V 5W.

@JuanJ what do you mean here?

POs are likely to mess with ground connections in the dashboard. However, it makes for a good chance to take it apart and check using the factory service manual.

Juan

 

[roscoFJ73]

I wonder if this ground problem is part of my slow-to-start issue... does a bad ground drain the battery?

Yes , because if the circuit is not earthed properly , the battery will not charge fully and the starter motor is not getting a full bolt of current.
This is rough on the starter motor also. The quicker the engine spins into life, the longer the starter will last.
But there could be other problems why your starter is cranking slowly
When you buy the bulbs, also buy $10 circuit tester. Even if you don't need the bulbs this time, you will need them later.

 

[JuanJ]

How strange. OK. I will order two bulbs and see if it solves it. Otherwise, I will
I can see that these are called CLEARANCE lights, not parking lights, for the record. The have a part number of
90981-16016 and are 24V 5W.

Hello,

Clearance lights do not apply to your 70 Series. TURN SIGNAL LAMPS do.

Your part number is correct. License plate and front parking light bulbs are interchangeable.







Juan

 

[JuanJ]

@JuanJ what do you mean here?

Hello,

It is something I have noted over the years.

Previous owners, POs for short, like to add electrical devices to their trucks. Often part of the gizmo goes in the instrument panel . Installation usually involves a power source and a ground connection.

Many owners disassemble the instrument panel, hack power from the nearest cable in the harness, connect the artifact, and then drill a hole in the body for a makeshift ground. The they assemble the panel again. Thus all the electrical tampering ends up hidden. More often than not, the installation draws power from the battery and the grounding interferes with the rest of the electrical system.

Then the truck changes hands, and most of the time the new owner is not told about the creative work done on the truck. Gremlins show up. But since the PO work is hidden, usually inside the instrument panel, at first it is hard to tell the cause.

The only way to deal with this is disassembling the instrument panel and finding hacked connections and makeshift grounds. Once found, they need removal, at least in my experience. Electrical accessories must have their own separate circuit -and battery if possible- in my book.

Proper disassembly usually requires a factory manual. So does identifying electrical circuits and ground points: if a cable is not the of the type/color listed in the FSM (Factory Service Manual) then it does not belong there. Same thing for unmarked devices and grounds.

It is also a chance to clean up, as dust builds up inside the panel over time. And a good excuse to work on your Cruiser.

I hope this helps. I hope it is a little more clear as well.




Juan

 

[Reinhardtius]

Yes , because if the circuit is not earthed properly , the battery will not charge fully and the starter motor is not getting a full bolt of current.
This is rough on the starter motor also. The quicker the engine spins into life, the longer the starter will last.
But there could be other problems why your starter is cranking slowly
When you buy the bulbs, also buy $10 circuit tester. Even if you don't need the bulbs this time, you will need them later.

Understood. I will work my way from simple to complex, hoping that it is indeed some little bulbs with poor ground that are draining the battery. If not, then we have something else to discuss. I'll get the circuit tester, too. Thanks.

Hello,

Clearance lights do not apply to your 70 Series. TURN SIGNAL LAMPS do.

Your part number is correct. License plate and front parking light bulbs are interchangeable.
Juan

Just to confirm that I should choose Option 1 (PN: 90981-1601424V 21W, 24V 21W(TURN)) and NOT option 2(PN:
90981-1601624V 5W, 24V 5W(CLEARANCE)). See annotated photo from TOYODIY diagram.

Hello,

It is something I have noted over the years.

Previous owners, POs for short, like to add electrical devices to their trucks. Often part of the gizmo goes in the instrument panel . Installation usually involves a power source and a ground connection.

Many owners disassemble the instrument panel, hack power from the nearest cable in the harness, connect the artifact, and then drill a hole in the body for a makeshift ground. The they assemble the panel again. Thus all the electrical tampering ends up hidden. More often than not, the installation draws power from the battery and the grounding interferes with the rest of the electrical system.

Then the truck changes hands, and most of the time the new owner is not told about the creative work done on the truck. Gremlins show up. But since the PO work is hidden, usually inside the instrument panel, at first it is hard to tell the cause.

The only way to deal with this is disassembling the instrument panel and finding hacked connections and makeshift grounds. Once found, they need removal, at least in my experience. Electrical accessories must have their own separate circuit -and battery if possible- in my book.

Proper disassembly usually requires a factory manual. So does identifying electrical circuits and ground points: if a cable is not the of the type/color listed in the FSM (Factory Service Manual) then it does not belong there. Same thing for unmarked devices and grounds.

It is also a chance to clean up, as dust builds up inside the panel over time. And a good excuse to work on your Cruiser.

I hope this helps. I hope it is a little more clear as well.

Juan

Yes, understood. Very clear, thank you. I cross my fingers and suspect that my ground is because of bad bulbs, because the truck does not have any accessories whatsoever installed. At least that is what I think.

However, if it is not the bulbs, then I will use my circuit tester and factory service manual to ensure that all is done by the book. Now about that factory service manual...

.... now where do I fetch one of those

 

[JuanJ]

Just to confirm that I should choose Option 1 (PN: 90981-1601424V 21W, 24V 21W(TURN)) and NOT option 2(PN:
90981-1601624V 5W, 24V 5W(CLEARANCE)). See annotated photo from TOYODIY diagram.

View attachment 1735585

Hello,

I made a mistake.

There is a Clearance Lamp diagram. I thought your part number came from that diagram, hence my comment.

From your post I noticed you got the right diagram. Unfortunately I confused Clearance Lamp with Clearance Light. I apologize.

You need Option Two. And again, it is also useful for the license plate light. That is the only part I got right.

Again, I apologize for the inconveniences.






Juan

 

[roscoFJ73]

Understood. I will work my way from simple to complex, hoping that it is indeed some little bulbs with poor ground that are draining the battery.

I should have added that the ground in the park lights is not a good design. Ok when new but when they get to 20 years old they seem to get resistance in them. Mine dont normally blow filaments, but the bulb goes black.
Sometime down the track you could look at grounding them another way.
A Tester will determine if the socket is getting power or not.

 

[JuanJ]

Now about that factory service manual...

.... now where do I fetch one of those

View attachment 1735585

Hello,

You can get manuals from eBay Australia. Shipping costs are not that high.

There is a thread about online manuals. It is worth checking for a download as well.

FSMs are worth every penny.






Juan