Front parking lights are not working -- why? (1 Viewer)

[roscoFJ73]

Now about that factory service manual...

.... now where do I fetch one of those

Have a look around on google. The factory manuals come into 2 books , Engine and engine electrical. And Body and Chassis.
So you need one for your 3B diesel and one for the 75 series body.
The diesel engine manual may also be the same one for Dyna trucks and Coaster buses.
If you cant download a free one, have a look on ebay. I see some for sale on DVD, Im not a fan of them ,sometimes they just cover all diesels.

These older Body and Chassis manuals also cover the 60 series as they are very similar to the 7* series in parts and function.

 

[Reinhardtius]

Have a look around on google. The factory manuals come into 2 books , Engine and engine electrical. And Body and Chassis.
So you need one for your 3B diesel and one for the 75 series body.
The diesel engine manual may also be the same one for Dyna trucks and Coaster buses.
If you cant download a free one, have a look on ebay. I see some for sale on DVD, Im not a fan of them ,sometimes they just cover all diesels.

These older Body and Chassis manuals also cover the 60 series as they are very similar to the 7* series in parts and function.

Many thanks.

Now, about the ground issue in the bulbs draining the battery... Is it still possible for two light bulbs with a ground issue to drain the battery if the light switch stalk does not even have the lights in the "ON" position? Because right now, and always, I turn "OFF" the lights when I get out of the car, so how can the battery be drained if the light stalk is in the "OFF" position?

 

[roscoFJ73]

I doubt the bulb grounding issue would drain your batteries. The ground and moisture issue which kills the bulbs is separate to the starting issue and it definitely would not be a problem when they are turned off.

The starting issue could be from bad battery connections. Bad battery ground on the engine and/or chassis. Or it could be a weak starter motor. If the batteries are old, that could also be the problem. If they are old, get them "load tested", this will determine their cranking power.

Do you have any wiring coming off the battery that looks like the previous owner may have added?
If this a 12v or 24v model?

 

[Reinhardtius]

I doubt the bulb grounding issue would drain your batteries. The ground and moisture issue which kills the bulbs is separate to the starting issue and it definitely would not be a problem when they are turned off.

The starting issue could be from bad battery connections. Bad battery ground on the engine and/or chassis. Or it could be a weak starter motor. If the batteries are old, that could also be the problem. If they are old, get them "load tested", this will determine their cranking power.

Do you have any wiring coming off the battery that looks like the previous owner may have added?
If this a 12v or 24v model?

I just returned from several weeks of fieldwork in Greenland. Before I left, the engine almost did not turn over.

I glowed the truck this morning and the starter did not have the might to turn the engine over. I popped the hood and could hear a crackling sound from the passenger battery, sort of like Rice Krispies when you put them in milk.

I disconnected both batteries, realizing that the driver battery “+” terminal was not even fastened down to the battery post. Now the batteries are getting charged one by one (I have yet to buy a 24v charger).

Questions:
1. What’s that crackling sound from the passenger battery about?

2. Could that poor “+” connection have been the source of the drain?

Also, my circuit tester arrived. Will try that out if new bulbs do not fix the parking light outages. I’m buying some parking light bulbs in either case.

It’s a 24V. There are several lines on the driver “+” terminal battery, but none on the passenger battery, and nothing on the “-“ terminals. See photo:

 

[Reinhardtius]

Update: used circuit tester with ground on negative battery and probe on the bulb receptacle. The light on the circuit tester goes on, so, I guess I need bulbs.

My batteries are charged, and the truck starts right up. I will monitor voltage. Maybe all is fine and I just need new batteries, if anything.

 

[roscoFJ73]

1. What’s that crackling sound from the passenger battery about?

2. Could that poor “+” connection have been the source of the drain?

The crackling is electricity arcing across a loose connection, a little like thunder from a lightening bolt on a smaller scale or the sound of an arc welder .
Poor connections cause all sorts of problems but not a necessarily a drain. More likely it stops the battery from getting a full charge each time you start the engine. Loose connections are hard on starter motors.

 

[roscoFJ73]

When you go away, you should disconnect the batteries. I have battery switches and turn them off if it is not going to be started for a few weeks. Do you have a trickle charger?

 

[Reinhardtius]

The crackling is electricity arcing across a loose connection, a little like thunder from a lightening bolt on a smaller scale or the sound of an arc welder .
Poor connections cause all sorts of problems but not a necessarily a drain. More likely it stops the battery from getting a full charge each time you start the engine. Loose connections are hard on starter motors.

The connection is tight now. The truck starts without a struggle. If poor connections don’t drain batteries after 3 weeks of no use, then could my batteries just be bad?

It sounds like I need a trickle charger to test them and maintain them. I was thinking about the Noco Genius G7200. Any other recommendations? I know BatteryMinder is popular. Why should I pay more for them over the Noco?

When you go away, you should disconnect the batteries. I have battery switches and turn them off if it is not going to be started for a few weeks. Do you have a trickle charger?

I do have a kill switch, but shouldn’t a 24V truck with a good-functioning electrical system be able to sit for a long while without draining? My 07 Volkswagen (12v electrical system) Rabbit sat at the air base for 3 weeks and fired right up upon my return...

 

[jblueridge]

I like my NOCO charger and it has some diagnostic capabilities. It can be set to "rejunvenate" old batteries by varying jolts of electricity meant to get crust off metal plates inside battery.

I let mine sit for long periods as I slowly do repair work and upgrades...battteries stay connected. There are small electrical draws like the clock and stereo but there could be others lurking within the wiring.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I was thinking about the Noco Genius G7200.

I like the C Tek 15A type made in Sweden. They will charge and restore old batteries as well as trickle charging. I also have a smaller 5A Ctek for the bikes. But any quality charger will do. Ill have a look at the NOCO GENIUS later.

I do have a kill switch, but shouldn’t a 24V truck with a good-functioning electrical system be able to sit for a long while without draining?

Batteries always seem to last longer if they are disconnected. I think there is always a small amount of drain. Im going away next week for 3 weeks. Ill will be disconnecting my Landcruiser and motorbikes

 

[Reinhardtius]

Update: I can see with my continuity tester that my parking light receptacles are getting power. However, I had one failing battery so I just replaced them both with INTERSTATE 27F batteries (Interstate Batteries | MTP-27F). I bought them for $110 each out the door.

I am waiting for my parts guy to get back to me about 2 parking light bulbs. I think we will be able to close this case once I put them in...

Thanks for educating me on some basic electrical troubleshooting.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I am waiting for my parts guy to get back to me about 2 parking light bulbs

Buy a box of 6, I use the Hella brand.

 

[Reinhardtius]

Unsurprisingly, I bought new bulbs from Toyota and they work great now. The batteries were also replaced. No more issues.

 

[Reinhardtius]

Unsurprisingly, I bought new bulbs from Toyota and they work great now. The batteries were also replaced. No more issues.

View attachment 1798767

After 3 years these bulbs went out again. I just ordered another set. I discovered recently that my charging system was overcharging my batteries, causing voltages of 33-34v. This was caused by a piggyback wiring harness between the voltage regulator and the alternator. I removed that piggyback wiring harness and now the voltage is 27.5-28v. I assume these bulbs popped early because of the high voltage.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Ive always had to replace those bulbs on all my 7* series. I think its a combo of moisture being trapped inside the lens and poor earth.