Front non-flare fender panels are very difficult to get at wreckers (1 Viewer)

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sunrk

sunrk

Joined
Oct 8, 2011
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Location
Toronto, NSW, Australia
Pure unobtainium at both of the wreckers I deal with fairly regularly. I can get some flared type (with the square holes for factory flare mounts) but I want no flares.

Toyodiy shows these p/n's 53801-60140 + 60141 + 60142 for RH and 53802-60150 + 60151 + 60152 for LH for the production year parts progression.

I am presuming these are the correct numbers for *non-flared* fender panels. Freakishly, Amayama says some of these are available but prices are about A$750 plus shipping per panel! Ouch!

Given how flares (regardless of type) hide and create rust, I'm keen to avoid that if at all possible.

Craig.
 
You'll have to paint them anyways so why not take a set to a welder and have him put patches in and then sand-body fill-sand? That's what everybody here does.
 
Thx mate for those. Not it seems that they are quite easy to remove/replace apart from the usual bugbears (hidden rust, breaking off bolts, factory captive nuts going bad, etc.), but for people who have replaced the outer fenders aka guards on their 80 are their any tips/tricks?

Given that all 80 series exterior panels (esp front fenders/guards) are old and beaten up and rusty, what's the best approach to restore them? POR-15 prep (first two steps) then either some sort of aerosol primer and oil-based topcoat? The existing factory paint is mostly good so can serve as a base for over-coating.

One thing I noticed is that on my existing panels the left side one has a massive rust hole concealed by the non-factory TJM fibreglass flare, and the factory radio antenna base is damaged.
 
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I just repaired what thought was a bolt on spare front fender that I purchased about 6 years ago. Made my own patch panels, media blasted the areas with surface rust plus the repaired section, self-etching primer for bare metal spots, and then coat the entire fender in high-build primer. It took a while to get it ready for the top coat, but in the end it wasn’t that bad. The third pic is the original fender. The other pics are of the spare. The spare rusted areas were not visible until I started chipping the paint away.

5B4DCBF4-7092-426D-A369-6F6F8F2C16C5.jpeg

FBF8D394-25C0-4F29-9856-508B63AFF47A.jpeg

9A7C25E9-6148-436B-B414-A61CF201A1B2.jpeg
A72BEDBC-F797-497C-B0F1-F049D064FA7D.jpeg
 
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Some more pics of the patched section spare fender section. If I can do this, most anyone else with a welder and determination can as well. A used fender here in NA goes for about USD$700.00. That’s CAN$1000.00, plus shipping/ brokerage fees, etc. So, close most likely to CAN$1300.00.

82862791-3A29-4B8D-A03E-ADF2BC369EDA.jpeg
E24443BD-3A38-4518-BEBF-845B55FE416F.jpeg
5467DA51-466E-4A17-BD1F-DFB67EC5D8FB.jpeg
7C387C7D-A24A-49A2-8717-ED123C2CE803.jpeg
AA7622EC-A448-4884-B859-63F945C7F5F2.jpeg
 
Njck22 said:
You'll have to paint them anyways so why not take a set to a welder and have him put patches in and then sand-body fill-sand? That's what everybody here does.
Click to expand...
better off bonding patches on the inside then the excess epoxy can be sanded flush. no welding means no distortion
 
True about welding causing distortion. I got very little distortion though, and worst was actually on the vertical path on the right in my last pic which was on a curved surface. Thickness of filler is less than 1/16” in most places.
 
sunrk said:
Thx mate for those. Not it seems that they are quite easy to remove/replace apart from the usual bugbears (hidden rust, breaking off bolts, factory captive nuts going bad, etc.), but for people who have replaced the outer fenders aka guards on their 80 are their any tips/tricks?

Given that all 80 series exterior panels (esp front fenders/guards) are old and beaten up and rusty, what's the best approach to restore them? POR-15 prep (first two steps) then either some sort of aerosol primer and oil-based topcoat? The existing factory paint is mostly good so can serve as a base for over-coating.

One thing I noticed is that on my existing panels the left side one has a massive rust hole concealed by the non-factory TJM fibreglass flare, and the factory radio antenna base is damaged.
Click to expand...

Not a worry mate, was good to meet you. Found a link to the body mounts I used if you're still toying that idea:

www.superspares.com.au

Trupro Body Mount Kit for Toyota Landcruiser 80 Series 5/90-98 Brand New

Trupro Body Mount Kit for Toyota Landcruiser 80 Series 5/90-98 Brand New
www.superspares.com.au www.superspares.com.au


Front panels, replacing them is easy, just be careful you don't lose the little plastic spacer from the bottom of the guard (two lower bolts) when you remove the panel. I recall one of the bolts to the firewall was a pain to get to, ratcheting spanners are only your friend for 2/3.

Start with a few of the bolts that run down from the windscreen to the bumper, then the upper and lower bolts to the firewall, then underside to inner guard/wheel well and finally the bottom two bolts with the plastic spacer. Throw em all in real loose, only really tighten down the two end bolts of each section/run of bolts, if that makes sense, just enough to have some resistance when you try to align the panel. Once you're happy with placement, tighten em all up and watch for any movement. Might take a few attempts but I had no problems getting everything to line up. Front apron below the grille was my biggest pain to get right.
 
sunrk said:
Pure unobtainium at both of the wreckers I deal with fairly regularly. I can get some flared type (with the square holes for factory flare mounts) but I want no flares.

Toyodiy shows these p/n's 53801-60140 + 60141 + 60142 for RH and 53802-60150 + 60151 + 60152 for LH for the production year parts progression.

I am presuming these are the correct numbers for *non-flared* fender panels. Freakishly, Amayama says some of these are available but prices are about A$750 plus shipping per panel! Ouch!

Given how flares (regardless of type) hide and create rust, I'm keen to avoid that if at all possible.

Craig.
Click to expand...
How much of a rush are you in? If you keep an eye on people parting out rigs on gumtree, you'll see some pop up every now and then. What wreckers did you try? There are some good places in South Australia which have bits that can be harder to get in the Sydney region, if you don't mind paying freight.
 
Also, be aware there are a fair few "pov packs" out there that had aftermarket flares added, like my 80. The flares on mine look similar, but just attach under the wheel well and sit on the original panels. Can be worth looking a bit closer at "flared" models to see if they're really factory flares or not, because you may find base model panels are sitting underneath.
 
mudgudgeon said:
That means closer to $300AUD each without shipping.
Shipping something that bulky down under would be more than the part
Ouch!
Click to expand...
I was more worried about whether it's even possible to buy something out of Russia right now given the current.... situation which must not be named here. I don't believe this kind of item would be specifically prohibited under the current restrictions, but figuring out how to pay a Russian vendor/supplier for their services right now would be a tricky proposition.
 
Obrokoff said:
it’s not a problem. PayPal
Click to expand...
www.protocol.com

PayPal is suspending service in Russia

Its Xoom service is also affected.
www.protocol.com www.protocol.com
No idea if that accurately reflects the current situation, or if PayPal works within Russia, but doesn't work cross borders, but I do know payments between financial institutions into and out of Russia are a minefield.
 
Nemesis1207 said:
Also, be aware there are a fair few "pov packs" out there that had aftermarket flares added, like my 80. The flares on mine look similar, but just attach under the wheel well and sit on the original panels. Can be worth looking a bit closer at "flared" models to see if they're really factory flares or not, because you may find base model panels are sitting underneath.
Click to expand...
Yes as does mine - it has TJM fibreglass ones but after 25+ years they're damaged, but worse is they conceal rust.
 
Have removed the old TJM fibreglass flare pieces from the existing LHF and RHF fender panels today. The right side one is *not* original to the vehicle as hiding under the flare piece were mounts for a factory flare piece (with remains of clips), and some extra holes but no big rust holes. The left side one is original and has a very big almost hand sized rust hole at the front that was mostly hidden by the flare.

To remove the flare pieces I just used a right-angled battery drill with an appropriate size bit to drill off the heads of the aluminium pop rivets that had been used to fit the TJM flare pieces. Then a bit of prodding with a plastic body panel tool and off each one popped.
 
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