Front Lower Control Arm Bushings @ 185k (1 Viewer)

[AlpineAccess]

Who has replaced their lower control arm bushings? I've read as much as I can around here, but haven't found a consensus on doing these other than they are a pain.

I'm replacing the uppers with adjustable, and know that those bushings are worn out. The lowers I can't tell, they seemed pretty good (rebounded to preload and I could almost stand on them without them moving too much. I tested them when I did the torsion bar swap to OME and had the lower arm freed up.

I have no symptoms to indicate there is anything wrong with the lowers, although I know they are original. They would end up being the only 'consumable' front end component that hasn't been updated within the last 2 years and I'm interested in folks feedback on any improvements tied to replacing them.

Having done lots of bushings over the years, when it comes to Toyota's that have the cam/eccentrics in the lowers, I have sworn to never deal with them again myself as they seize and snap off or break cam tabs. These NOT being eccentrics I'm interested in if there is a real benefit to doing these at 200k. If its actually a sliding scale of diminishing returns though and I'm going to put in 5-6 hours for something with very little return I'm happy to skip it. I don't see a way to verify if they are going bad.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Mine had no noticeable play while mounted on the truck but had visible tears in the rubber when I pulled the lowers off the truck (204k miles). I replaced them - it’s easier than doing the UCA bushings, primarily because only 1 bushing is actually in the LCA. That one is as much of a PIA as the UCA bushings, but the frame-mounted bushing is a cakewalk. Torch, chisel, and BFH were what I used to get the LCA bushing out, whereas the frame bushing came out with a threaded rod, few washers and nuts, and a couple of big sockets. IIRC, took me 2-3 hours to get all 4 bushings out and about 1 hour to put all 4 new ones back in. This was definitely worth not spending $600 on new LCA, in my opinion.

 

[Kofoed]

My bushings looked good, until the LCA was off the rig and could see rubber cracking. I took a small drill (1/8 to 3/16") and drilled out the rubber to remove the inner metal sleeve. I used a sawsall to cut the shell and a chisel to fold the shell in on itself to remove it. It took awhile. Oddly, the frame mounted bushing was easier to get out...even with the lack of access.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Thanks for the replies. Did either of you see a performance improvement? What was the change?

In pricing out bushings, I'm getting about $250 with shipping for OEM. I'd like to go with OEM or equivalent. What did you use and what has your experience been with that product?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Impossible for me to say, because I replaced all UCA and LCA bushings, upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer TREs, CV axles, wheel bearings, hub flanges, shocks, tires, and steering rack bushings all at the same time. So effectively everything but the steering rack was new by the time I drove it again. I used OEM bushings for the UCA and LCA - can’t beat Toyota rubber quality and durability (that’s what she said).

However, I replaced LCA bushings (but nothing else) on one my 4runners not long ago and had noticeable improvement in tracking (i.e., wandering at speed was virtually eliminated) and quieter/tighter suspension movement.

 

[Brentok]

Similar to above I replaced almost everything at the same time, so can't say what helped what. But I couldn't stand the thought of not replacing LCA bushings given everything else I was doing. As far as the lower bushings, I probably spent more time running down threaded rod, bolts and sockets to use as bushing press as I did actually working on them. The frame bushings on mine were TIGHT. I have no rust, so not sure why mine were so tough, but they were. I started using threaded rod and bushing/sockets to remove them and the threaded rod stripped before anything budged. I hear you can buy hardened rod, but I couldn't find any locally. So I ended up buying an 8" (I think) grade 8 bolt from Fastenal that worked. So, you might think about that possibility before starting.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Similar to above I replaced almost everything at the same time, so can't say what helped what. But I couldn't stand the thought of not replacing LCA bushings given everything else I was doing. As far as the lower bushings, I probably spent more time running down threaded rod, bolts and sockets to use as bushing press as I did actually working on them. The frame bushings on mine were TIGHT. I have no rust, so not sure why mine were so tough, but they were. I started using threaded rod and bushing/sockets to remove them and the threaded rod stripped before anything budged. I hear you can buy hardened rod, but I couldn't find any locally. So I ended up buying an 8" (I think) grade 8 bolt from Fastenal that worked. So, you might think about that possibility before starting.

Thanks for all of the replies, helps a lot. Job like this make or break based on having the right tools together before starting it sometimes.

@Brentok, did you use OEM bushings?

In looking at the posts on pushing out the #2 bushing, I'm not seeing why it can't be done with a rented C-clamp ball joint press. Is there a clearance/space restriction on getting it lined up?

 

[Kofoed]

I replaced a bunch of items as I was fighting the vehicle wandering after putting on larger/heavier tires and a lift. The C clamp method is hard because the metal shell is so thin, hard to get a socket on it (or the old shell from the first removal) I also tried to pull it out with the all-thread method (to be honest I should have used like 1/2 all thread) I had a bit of rust, even though it is a SoCal vehicle. Good luck

 

[AlpineAccess]

I replaced a bunch of items as I was fighting the vehicle wandering after putting on larger/heavier tires and a lift. The C clamp method is hard because the metal shell is so thin, hard to get a socket on it (or the old shell from the first removal) I also tried to pull it out with the all-thread method (to be honest I should have used like 1/2 all thread) I had a bit of rust, even though it is a SoCal vehicle. Good luck

Did the bushings eliminate the wandering?

Thanks for the comments. I am going to order these bushings and give it a shot.

 

[Kofoed]

I replaced almost everything. I have the front at about 1.5 to 1.75 inch lift. What finally made a huge difference was setting the caster to 4 degrees with the SPC upper control arms. Previously I had factory and the alignment shop could only get 2 degrees (and wheel bearing were loose)

 

[AlpineAccess]

I replaced almost everything. I have the front at about 1.5 to 1.75 inch lift. What finally made a huge difference was setting the caster to 4 degrees with the SPC upper control arms. Previously I had factory and the alignment shop could only get 2 degrees (and wheel bearing were loose)

Thanks, I'm not experiencing bad wandering, just a slight bit of floating around 50-70. Part of wanting to know if I should just knock it all out is that I don't want to pay for an extra alignment if I can do it all in one shot.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I don't want to pay for an extra alignment if I can do it all in one shot.

That was a part of my thought process, too. Ultimately, I just decided to replace everything in one shot. However, that is admittedly not a cheap process even when doing the work yourself.

 

[Brentok]

Thanks for all of the replies, helps a lot. Job like this make or break based on having the right tools together before starting it sometimes.

@Brentok, did you use OEM bushings?

In looking at the posts on pushing out the #2 bushing, I'm not seeing why it can't be done with a rented C-clamp ball joint press. Is there a clearance/space restriction on getting it lined up?

I used below from Rock Auto. They had the Toyo part numbers on them and were made in Japan. Hopefully they are still sourced from same supplier and are available.

ACDELCO 45G9288
ACDELCO 45G9287

I have one of those balljoint c clamps. I can't remember why it wouldn't work for me, but I'd guess it was a clearance issue.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I used below from Rock Auto. They had the Toyo part numbers on them and were made in Japan. Hopefully they are still sourced from same supplier and are available.

ACDELCO 45G9288
ACDELCO 45G9287

I have one of those balljoint c clamps. I can't remember why it wouldn't work for me, but I'd guess it was a clearance issue.

I looked these part numbers up and the images don't look like OEM. Unfortunately, Rock Auto won't ship to us in cities in Colorado anymore but I'm going to see if someone can forward them.

 

[pdxlc]

I've got 2 grease-able (zerk fitting) LBJ if you're wanting to replace those. They're MOOG brand, re-packaged as Mevotech. PM me if you're interested.

 

[brownfox]

I did a whole front end rebuild on my 100. All lower bushings were rusted in place. I tried every documented method of pressing them out. Heat, PB blaster over the course of two weeks. Finally had to cut them out. They were probably just fine, but it was a “while I was in there” thing. If I could do it over again, I’d leave them. It was hell.

 

[Brentok]

I looked these part numbers up and the images don't look like OEM. Unfortunately, Rock Auto won't ship to us in cities in Colorado anymore but I'm going to see if someone can forward them.

Why won't rock auto ship to CO?

 

[AlpineAccess]

I've got 2 grease-able (zerk fitting) LBJ if you're wanting to replace those. They're MOOG brand, re-packaged as Mevotech. PM me if you're interested.

I have all new balljoints, I'm doing bushings.

 

[FxFormat]

Man i just started hearing a faint squeak in my lower control arm ball joint, might be grease drying out. Does anyone know if the BJ has a zerk fitting that i can regrease? I don't have any play in it, just annoying faint squeak.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I did a whole front end rebuild on my 100. All lower bushings were rusted in place. I tried every documented method of pressing them out. Heat, PB blaster over the course of two weeks. Finally had to cut them out. They were probably just fine, but it was a “while I was in there” thing. If I could do it over again, I’d leave them. It was hell.

Appreciate the input. My LC was an AZ vehicle before I brought it to CO - completely rust free.