It’s normal on the SPC joints.
Front lower ball joint leaking grease EDIT: also upper ball joint
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I put 3-5 pumps of grease in after a major off-road trip or during oil service intervals. Additionally, the ball joint boots are quite easy to change while the UCA and ball joint remains in position. Only have to separate the upper ball joint from the spindle.
If there's sufficient grease in there, I believe so. SPC instructions say to add 5-10 pumps of grease in each oil change. The old grease has to come out somehow.Yeah but is it supposed to happen?
So, I'm hearing a clank...(or was it a clunk?
) on my 2011 LX with 155K miles. I posted in another thread about this and someone suggested it might be an LBJ. Got under and looked and see the regular grease leaking out but not more than what you guys have already described. Took the wheel off and tried tightening everything but found nothing loose. Tried wiggling the tire back and forth but didn't detect any movement so I'm stumped.The clank/clunk is definitely coming from the front left. I don't hear it on every bump but it seems to be more prevalent on roads with many smaller bumps. There is a paved road near my house with a 1/3 mile stretch that was repaved a few years ago. The pavers did a terrible job and it's nearly a washboard of fresh pavement. Not rough like gravel/dirt washboard but definitely noticeable and I hear the bumps quite a few times during that 1/3 mile. There doesn't seem to be any correlation between turning/accelerating/braking but there MIGHT be one in weight shifting/body roll as I've noticed it sometimes on smooth pavement that might have a bit of a dip to one side.
Noises are notoriously hard to isolate sometimes. My wife has a Mini with 40k miles that has the same sort of clunk on the passenger's side over some types of bumps, but also sometimes just when applying or releasing the brakes (though the brakes check out fine). Dealer mechanic thought it was the ball joints and replaced the control arms (under warranty) but it still does it. They've gone on to claim it's the run flat tires, which I know is a load of bull. I've read some folks have issues with the motor or transmission mount (I can't recall) at low mileage which can sound like this so that's my next investigationSo, I'm hearing a clank...(or was it a clunk?
The clank/clunk is definitely coming from the front left. I don't hear it on every bump but it seems to be more prevalent on roads with many smaller bumps. There is a paved road near my house with a 1/3 mile stretch that was repaved a few years ago. The pavers did a terrible job and it's nearly a washboard of fresh pavement. Not rough like gravel/dirt washboard but definitely noticeable and I hear the bumps quite a few times during that 1/3 mile. There doesn't seem to be any correlation between turning/accelerating/braking but there MIGHT be one in weight shifting/body roll as I've noticed it sometimes on smooth pavement that might have a bit of a dip to one side.
My point is lots of things can make noises like that if they are worn. Upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, steering rack, etc. Ball joints are common but not the only thing that can make that sound. It really helps to get the truck on a lift so you can move around underneath and check everything, but failing that a GoPro or a set of ChassisEar can help you try to better locate the area the noise is coming from.
bloc
SILVER Star
Yep. Chassis ears. Can’t believe I didn’t think of that already.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I've had good luck with the quality of the made in Japan 555 ball joints, and I wouldn't hesitate to use them anywhere in my suspension.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
I am also using the 555 Lower ball joints and their tie rod ends from @cruiseroutfit. So far so good, the new tie rod ends definitely did wonders tightening up the steering feel.
From what I've seen here and elsewhere is that it is nearly impossible to replace the LBJ's yourself and need a shop and even then, some are unwilling to do it for various reasons. Did you guys replace your own?
TLC2013
SILVER Star
I attempted it myself but threw in the towel. I was unable to get the C-clamp style press to get the ball joint to budge. I was using a 30” breaker bar and still couldn’t get it to move. Some here have had luck with this style hand tool so I assumed I’d have no trouble with my rust free LC. Made a mess of things and ultimately had my Indy mechanic press them in.
I was seeing a lot of grease around the boot but didn’t have any clunks/odd noises. In hindsight I should have just waited and replaced the whole lower control arms once they failed. At 105k the LBJs were still tight, just oozing lots of grease. If I remember correctly the complete OEM LCA with LBJ can be found for less then $300.
I was seeing a lot of grease around the boot but didn’t have any clunks/odd noises. In hindsight I should have just waited and replaced the whole lower control arms once they failed. At 105k the LBJs were still tight, just oozing lots of grease. If I remember correctly the complete OEM LCA with LBJ can be found for less then $300.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
A little grease residue is normal I believe. If it's oozing then I'd tend to believe that it had too much grease in there in the first place.
When you grease your driveline, it spits out dirty grease as you pump and flings some out occasionally depending on your use. That's normal and I'd wager that a similar concept applies here.
If it's making noise, feels clunky, has a torn boot, or causes tire wear - that's when I'd worry.
When you grease your driveline, it spits out dirty grease as you pump and flings some out occasionally depending on your use. That's normal and I'd wager that a similar concept applies here.
If it's making noise, feels clunky, has a torn boot, or causes tire wear - that's when I'd worry.
Thanks for the input guys. I've ordered a knock-off ChassisEars set (couldn't see paying $240 for a tool that I may never use again) and it should be here in a few days. Hopefully, it will work properly and hopefully, I can identify the problem quickly. I'm betting heavily on LBJ right now.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
My wired chassis ears were about $100. Inflation must've really kicked in!
Heat can help stubborn parts separate and cold can help the install. Use a torch to heat up the ball joint area before removal, put them in the freezer before installing.
Heat can help stubborn parts separate and cold can help the install. Use a torch to heat up the ball joint area before removal, put them in the freezer before installing.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
And here's another 100-specific video but for the UBJ in a stock arm.
I couldn't find any Steelman wired ones in stock. They were only about $130. The wireless ones are $240. I really have to restrain myself on those kinds of things. I'm a tech geek already and if you combine that with a tool for my truck it's real trouble.
I had the same issue (on trying to restrain myself). I was thankfully able to snag a set of wired ChassisEar for under $100.I couldn't find any Steelman wired ones in stock. They were only about $130. The wireless ones are $240. I really have to restrain myself on those kinds of things. I'm a tech geek already and if you combine that with a tool for my truck it's real trouble.
It won't help you here but if anyone on mud in the Chicago area ever needs to borrow a set let me know. They're a great tool to have, but you probably only need them occasionally
