Front drivetrain clatter on rotation

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 31, 2015
Threads
17
Messages
208
Location
Nomad's Land
Initial research into this issue led me to believe it was related to brakes. Subsequent attempts to toy with the mechanics of the front leads me to believe CV issue.

Symptom(s): Upon forward motion, especially at low speeds and abutted to a building, a "clack clack clack" or "clop clop clop" can be heard, seeming to originate from the front-left wheel. I did notice what appears to be grease splattered upon the apron seals in the wheel well. I'll try to post decent pics of this.

Background: I did install the Slee AHC override and thinking that this put strain on the CV to exhibit this issue.

My apologies for the scant details. In an urgent attempt to diagnose, I decided to post this now and update this initial post as I have further. Below is the one pic I do have. Experts, please, chime in!

Researched these threads:

Playing with front lift (problems)

Clacking noise from front wheels

JvjkJK4WwXvowtDzzoo5B__BkxC2s0H3UC8D7jf6NfLuRQr1tkOfI44Le6jpjtK_CQAada3ti0iaIVKDFef6AV255SpteArhpa2bN3PnkuUOGPSCDBLJZ0lPfRzfpGghLzncC0t6jlg8UILKrE2iSf265Lb5jm0fRKWFMQYYTdYcrrutQSI5DxFC28_4JY8sKH-tsy6jOWd2XVmD1mxxq2vjLQv0AoGFNfWWWwDabjPrmbTHgfQ6zm9BTa5G_xkrhPdlve1gdsM1KMgNfLdemsMXDZm3YAAAz8-sBfItExN4yLRjnXO_ZcPe8J2OvxcIxqbV8evGuNPK9xvYCcYL0b6Y5SWUxWY5HLaJ2uWH56Ip6mEfArd3FjfFGUiEdC-sDxGmJUvk46OymCs44GQ2stPRNojpIKD8n_PQ-yz1-h4EvDWF36EiWwepoKtrl_QNSZt1m9Yd4RfXjMvtouA9-xE8VZ6MzcmK1bNtHaQs6PLpk2qDLOFofBZSzBnVvuw5ol453gu7nitdn4COYWWlbghUYqMGj1yw51NTlyEYV-BgpTQ4GBv7PwXNWOMlhe7hmTtKvg=w708-h1257
 
Have you raised that wheel, and turn while visual & audible inspecting. It looks a bit oily, has it spread further than picture shows?
 
Last edited:
No, I have not. I don't currently have the means to lift it. The noise is noticeably more prominent when turning at low speeds.

I was able to snag another pic, though the quality is abysmal. Depicted is the presumed splatter of whatever that oily substance is. It's on the apron seals as well as the inside of the wheel.

OBsyjicAmiysQDSS9yFscFSOxFwC7Vbs1ivE4x2sR-EcUQvKSJznchkgVVTfn1png9B-EhJpcRlHWXZ3bmxe2Lxejsofxy-kWayhg1z8KE1vontTEcQuMaX4rvb6XyRW5z_WoHeRFVv9w08V-C3aQdV7oOqlSgPlNqSFpqeCoYjqg2cUGeXgGY4UPh--94v955cLiEALMpoI7hZhS388-86zECSYbWrPVNwuCanM3cxwSRT281cTXDhAlaZ2sYReMJe5xc0_gfSKZWgSsLP1yDMgn96d-bNPa2q_BYD26EO0fL3gg_633vCwQoefRvlo6cpg9lzmwmbCy2gs959xzkinKt8AsyE5CEHhHJleey18l2EGEqHVJZfA-_qKVsbXNfb6E-MtQ5pJFtv9Jhx9oCj1E-w6BIO35MIuZXLUrwBzsRojKsEQugMtRWl9E1qlGJvO6--HWP-QVFl50SMTZW1V12EUzHl7nhaG8jORTz09We9trTLJO9xclVYdjhSJ8L8Rimcst_faKM91mj_IPdGCixWQBAgqfbydkARqkRKgTAuBrQGb_ZrcbOUgD78f1UcY4Q=w708-h1257


-roDT5ifHp2w9w0dRhRY6hcYnpEMQFoV8fRcOSn4Wc2y37xYUVWA1v5r62Rsz957O02yEbFzWCKts8I-0m9jrkk6SrJ76Fe4Gkwf7F7Cwtg82VfoI3Nhk442UXHTA7HoX009iAGXF8bVZLsSQtxKMZl6B8Enh-Zkyfon7aClTIeM_F5L6VLFbs87i6PD_Ibld8F9FbCVl1tW7QSth8UjHXpIhAv95V_1D1qTCQvXKNK9J2z28G4Vhzu7XZhUXhvpp73zvPguwA_Gv2LDzP2tLrb-NNj7wL6H1TE6BoAZ-PBCzU7QLkfjeVSZvW9ExqenJly7Eja1M-eU__yCUGHmLvepFtmchCCRQOATzpsiPds48F4Qz0z4H8HM4Md5gouDL-FXAuatcjfK-BeGkv6dWR2rbKke5PF61TozWImTAULZRy0K87wDY16Gy8Hlp3zFf_CyK4P5Q7EHVJaWWTjTb9cmbEUkdaIv3YGkGBRkMV8h_NxUV1OZUn2-yquFOwsPIAL_ehaJYBfikGPeIDsV1G6BgpkFJOVJ6rHC7pnJmcc6OZWRSwcXyzQekQAMGgDY1UvlYA=w708-h1257


cMNuhj5hqvT5ucg45WF42FIjytT8LMEg1J5p-kgRUMNQgSjeAbnqLBxJLvn9RZEycAh4HCP18NZpViG07SXHV3yZfOTJfrG3eohvO20oC-52aVohZfEDBcJk-SFHaTT1sO66J5WML57vWbKWFAR4_9H7tOQTxCJp-bmSaohkGSFIZXSwwaHl5KdYRSCHh_NO5QIUfxqKanKCsIDKeNz7t8vJmklICs4vSrKIpCi0KNUmK_Ymew0K1x2XkqJ_gewTmxIBgd6Gwm5pnviHbMKr5TdJ51V081OcQE2eFKKkzesyN7AzZIY_CMzoIeINu8WKXm-rPQ7y4vwIgkiixbdxrtYjpbNCBbpKTmqeVcNplnxRXt9lED-L8IYqGNL93Ady2sQXJpfiXU6MMgsIofAw-22yTw8b38-9FGAyA_FSKnjlZ7XrtphXiEOT69uX-28lBJiS6K4Lfg3FJsSnANboqW7YumTN62yJQYnkpFHdo7jfC5ZHmgk6couIOFSLHvuCLRC-RMfjOoQynm4PRfppxl5fyDVv5VKtVlVFJ6KJb6bseFPboC941uFylg0pN4EDiL7l3g=w708-h1257


I'm concerned about further damage or danger if I continue to drive it as it seems to have gotten more pronounced over the past couple of weeks.
 
I would say new cv axle and diff drop needed to get it sorted.

Yikes, sounds pricey. I've reverted back to neutral AHC ride height in hopes of mitigating further damage. If/when I get this repaired, I'll probably consider the diff drop, however, in all my reading there doesn't seem to be a direct link to AHC override and CV axle damage (correct me if I'm wrong). Slee only advises potential tire wear issues when running predominantly outside of neutral if not aligned at override height.

Thanks for all the input and assessment, mudders! :cheers:
 
If your running it at neutral position just change the cv axle and get on the phone to slee and see what they recommend. Would hate to see you damage a new cv axle.
 
Toyota shop in Missoula, MT quoted me $837, parts + labor, to replace a single cv axle with OEM parts. My research has yielded recommendation to replace both on the rig as it's nearing 200k miles. That'd be a grand total of $1,674... ouch. Opinions on pricing? Would do myself, but this one is out of my league.
 
Toyota shop in Missoula, MT quoted me $837, parts + labor, to replace a single cv axle with OEM parts. My research has yielded recommendation to replace both on the rig as it's nearing 200k miles. That'd be a grand total of $1,674... ouch. Opinions on pricing? Would do myself, but this one is out of my league.
What the parts list?
 
If you search OEM Toyota LC same year, you can save. Either way it's the same OEM Toyota part/box. You'll need hub flanges to match. New wheel bearing kits may be nice touch.
 
Thank you very much, @2001LC! Per the image below, where do you think this is? I'm a bit confused by the schematic in the link you provided. Appears I need to replace 43470(LH) if I'm looking at this correctly?

M_g8hH8x-v3OU24QiImP666WOyyCYDlwFK5wfBcN3Hmvf1XVd9ONEyGa6W-MPWsUV5x5dib5X1czQSbF9x1CRFZAGYvtZIOYWZAHQzN7hxrJUHwq8X2iOVOZvbNlzlOagkYg5BQnMypBMLgzX4UJYy48G6krDSW7MPU2m_DUXYg6CUBfhdXVYLWUAQXn_FCqs9kiQk-0tJFEalF9QXwmR7IIwwXnWDdVOmQIvhriKawkmRUtVpqRgWfhDc3P0ZMM8BtDpZjUfuxNQ3o_o9Ma_Y8Lzuc9OhxJr7Ydk4vLE1LZJleOqmb2iS_j9BME_vVlnD_AgCIUIS3zg9C458clKDXE8J61T5-mzuuBg3I2Wi5gLUcS-ByOQ07BHSKGe0N6DU4tBWbjaW_D1eVJnLfuakl5KwWQvqAk3J9yzJr7MzYcLF5crb6wXw87BG0SA0v3OI6cJ9arXVaSp0beU2yCjlW3NA0m1GylUgcvOJyZ39NFWknNgMihiBNdmzBEvSEkIHG5D49ZRqxZ0ztmcPVkVMvCEqfYVBzL7SElibLoj5epHum6LW-axPcjOafC2VcR-ICK1w=w708-h1257
 
If you search OEM Toyota LC same year, you can save. Either way it's the same OEM Toyota part/box. You'll need hub flanges to match. New wheel bearing kits may be nice touch.

Thank you for confirming identical parts. When I inquired with the Toyota Stealership (no Lexus shops for many, many miles), even though I mentioned this rig being near identical to the 100 series LC, they researched the LX specifically, probably garnering a higher markup on price.

I'm aligned with your mindset of having other smaller items taken care of whilst the invasive labor is being done on these components. Things like bushings, bearings, etc, I'm wanting to replace as the parts are relatively cheap and the wheels and hubs will be off anyway, allowing for minimal additional labor, if any. Further thoughts on comprehensive proactive/preventive parts to replace while in there?
 
Just what FSM calls non reusable, Dealer must add to the job if doing it by the book. I'd est. about $800 in parts. With all OEM parts, $1,600 would be cool.
 
I could do myself ~$800 in parts. So $1,600 for both side at a shop would be a good price IMHO. But you should expect more I suppose. I really don't know shop prices, since I do my own work.

The PM work your contemplating is a good idea, I suppose. Especially if you have clunk shifting to drive. Many of these problems arise from improper maintenance schedule or most often procedure used. So if one side gone, other probable not far behind.
 
Last edited:
Nice write up Rob, you may want too add the max snap ring to hub flange gap is a max of 0.20MM pre FSM. I like using channellock pliers to remove grease cap, so that I don't damage hub flange or screw driver.

I see you use a Pitman Arm Puller KD Tools 2289. Does this fit on lower ball joint, without the need to bend the rotors' dust cover to make room?
 
Back
Top Bottom