Front Disc Rotors are hot to the touch!

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Josie'sLandCruiser said:
...hopped into the FJ40 and took it for a drive. Got it up to about 40 mph, coasted down a slope, and using transmission braking slowed-down and turned onto a side street; was able to get the rig stopped without ever touching the brake pedal. Got out and touched the front brake rotors - they were stone cold!




This does not make sense to me.....



Anyone else?


Previous to this, you posted up:


" The truck is stopping much better than before, but I noticed a bit of "drag" when coasting in neutral; i.e. the truck was slowing-down while coasting sooner than it would before the parts swap last night. "



I do not read where you have changed anything.... :confused:
 
Hi All:

Steve, it appears that just adjusting the rod from the booster where it attaches to the brake pedal was enough. I "shortened" the rod at this end by cranking it into the pedal about 1/4 of an inch. I also installed a return spring.

It appears that the rod adjustment stopped the slight pedal pressure that was causing the front brake pads to drag a bit.

After adjusting the booster rod the other day I took the rig for a test drive and noticed that the drag effect was reduced or gone altogether.

But, you can be sure I'll be watching for any problems with the brakes for awhile!

Thanks again for your help!

Alan
 
Ok, cool...


I was reading your posts over and over last night, especially #11, and this tossed me a curve ball... ;)


Glad that it is working out for you Alan.


:beer:


This thread is in the FAQ....as this seems to be a common issue when doing brake upgrades....thanks for asking the question! :)



-Steve
 
I am having this same problem with my 74 FJ40. I have the thin booster and a four wheel disc brake booster. The part that Poser took a picture of is too long. (the short rod) Can this one be shortened? If I grind it down do I in turn also have to drill out the inside since the end of the longer rod fits into it? If I grind down the longer rod from the brake pedal to the booster, which end do I grind ?
 
searching for info on booster swaps I came across this. If I am not doing a disk swap yet (someime soon) but need a new booster can I use a newer mini-truck booster for now without much trouble? Making a spacer / shortening or lengthening the rod is not a problem. Just wondering which booster would be the best fit for now.

Thanks for the help!

Rufus
 
Just called my favorite local JY. Think a 91-92 celica booster would work? The pic on the advance auto sit shows a 4 stud rear with a 3 stud front (mc mount). I am at work and not near the rig. i may swing by the JY and pick it up....
 
Alan-


Is this piece similar to what you are having troubles with adjusting?


This is a 1987 booster that I had at the shop, with a disc brake master cylinder from JTO...
View attachment 55710View attachment 55711
Hi Poser
I have this exact set up. Although I have adjusted the push rod in as far as it will go and I still have a half inch between booster and master when push rod makes contact with master. Any Ideas? I have stock booster.
 
Hello there, from my experience, my front discs were getting hot on my cruiser, new booster master and so...but the flexible brake lines were just rotted with a bonch of old rust giving a hard time to fluids to escape once i pressed hard on brakes...

Ended up installing braded lines and a good clean up and all was back to perfect...
 
@Poser I had the same problem all new brake components and drag on my '78. But for the life of me could not get that rod end play adjustment correct; but my mechanic sure did-brakes excellent now!!! Glad to hear it is sorted out.
 

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