Front diff lock isn’t engaging

[Mr Cimarron]

Great job.

 

[Mario12345]

A quick search & got this ^^^ - I just took the whole post.

They are the same for all three places, so when you pull that old one see if you can fix it, toss it somewhere for a spare.

Hey so i put the senor in it today and went to take it out but not the cdl light came on but then s*** off and won’t stay on. But when i bypassed it, it all worked fine ..... so I’m thinking the sensor is bad, or there’s a Torque spec

 

[Mario12345]

A quick search & got this ^^^ - I just took the whole post.

They are the same for all three places, so when you pull that old one see if you can fix it, toss it somewhere for a spare.

Hey so i just tested it all out with the new sensor and now the truck cdl locks and then shut off ... the light went onn then shut off ... when i bypassed the whole thing it all worked, but I’m assuming maybe i got a faulty switch/ sensor or maybe i need to torque it for proper depth

 

[LINUS]

Easy place to start then would be to look for some corrosion on the body socket terminals or re-install that jumper wire & randomly flex the harness & see if there’s a short in the harness.

Something I’ve done forever is stuff either white lithium or dielectric grease (preferred) - in whatever socket I lay hands on after confirming no corrosion. It stabilizes the current flow & greatly expands the corrosion resistance- esp out on the axle lockers where those sockets are as low on the vehicle as you can get.

I just did it Tues nite on the battery in the Tundra when we were wiring the lights in the new bumper.

You could even pull that new switch, plug it into the harness out of the transfer case & push the ball & cycle it, see if the solenoid trips.

Seens you at least have it narrowed down to that switch or the immediate plug & harness.

 

[Mario12345]

Easy place to start then would be to look for some corrosion on the body socket terminals or re-install that jumper wire & randomly flex the harness & see if there’s a short in the harness.

Something I’ve done forever is stuff either white lithium or dielectric grease (preferred) - in whatever socket I lay hands on after confirming no corrosion. It stabilizes the current flow & greatly expands the corrosion resistance- esp out on the axle lockers where those sockets are as low on the vehicle as you can get.

I just did it Tues nite on the battery in the Tundra when we were wiring the lights in the new bumper.

You could even pull that new switch, plug it into the harness out of the transfer case & push the ball & cycle it, see if the solenoid trips.

Seens you at least have it narrowed down to that switch or the immediate plug & harness.

Well i was messing with it and now it all works fine .... i think it was because it was snowing hard and maybe something got wet that shouldn’t ... i might seal off the connections

 

[COYS]

Gross. Cleaned it up with new seals and now working again like it should. I'll still replace both front and rears with new Toyota units.

 

[LINUS]

Well i was messing with it and now it all works fine .... i think it was because it was snowing hard and maybe something got wet that shouldn’t ... i might seal off the connections

Dielectric grease. Get yourself a tube, it’ll cure everything but itchy nuts.

See a doc for that

 

[Fast Eddy]

Gross. Cleaned it up with new seals and now working again like it should.

Terrifying.

 

[rolliges]

Re-route breather with new hose and keep the motor cleaner longer.