Hi all!
When I replaced my cv axle and seals I found it annoying to have to track down all the info in one place. So I decided to make a write up of all the steps. Sadly no pictures but hopefully some people can help with that.
Anyways, here is a step by step:
Front CV Axle and Front Differential Seal Replacement:
I’m sure I missed something but I followed these instructions myself when I had to redo my seal (cause I messed up the first replacement ) and it worked well. Good luck and let me know how it goes!
When I replaced my cv axle and seals I found it annoying to have to track down all the info in one place. So I decided to make a write up of all the steps. Sadly no pictures but hopefully some people can help with that.
Anyways, here is a step by step:
Front CV Axle and Front Differential Seal Replacement:
Step: | Instructions: | Tools Needed: |
Step 1 | Remove Tire, wheel hub cap and cv axle retainer ring | 22mm socket Wrench/impact gun Pry bar, chisel, flathead screwdriver |
Step 2 | Remove brake caliper (17 or 18mm) and wheel speed sensor (10mm at sensor, 12mm for frame bolts) (Speed sensor is prone to breakage, so be delicate. If you destroy it buy replacement here on Amazon for cheap or buy oem) | 17mm socket 10mm socket 12mm socket Wrench (impact is too large to fit) Recommend a breaker bar if this is first time removing bolts or they are rusted on there Small pry bar for speed sensor |
Step 3 | Remove Tie Rod Bolts from backside of knuckle (both 19mm) | 19mm socket Breaker bar & wrench |
Step 4 | Loosen top and bottom ball joints after removing cotter pins. Once loose, using a hammer, strike the thickened parts until both are loose) Top ball joint is 19mm and bottom is 24mm (KEEP CASTLE NUTS LOOSELY ON AS TO AVOID DAMAGING THREADS OR HAVING KNUCKLE DROP) | Pliers 19mm socket 24 mm socket Metal hammer |
Step 5 | Remove Knuckle and set aside | |
Step 6 | Using a rope, tie it to the base of cv axle (as close to differential hub as possible). Tie the other end to a hammer and swing in air as hard as you can or until it pops out (make sure to reset cv axle every swing by pushing it back into diff hub) If this method does not work, carefully use a pry bar inbetweenhub and axle | Mule tape/tough rope Metal hammer Optional: pry bar |
Step 7 | Once CV axle is removed, check front differential seal. If it has been replaced recently or looks to be in good condition, my recommendation is to not replace it. However if water was introduced or you are doing a tune up then here is how you replace front seal | |
Step 8 | Using a seal removal tool or a pry bar, carefully get behind old seal and pluck it out (BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE INTERNALS ON DIFF) | Pry bar Seal puller |
Step 9 | Once seal is removed, clean the inside of the diff to ensure it is clear of obstructions. Then take new seal, (Part #90311-47013 for driver side and # 90311-47027 for passenger) and put gear oil around rim of seal and inside of diff. Nowusing the old seal, a seal press or even a proper sized piece of PVC, LIGHTLY start tapping new seal in until it is FLUSH with the race/lipon the inside of diff, or approx. 5.5mm in. Do NOT go past this line! Highly recommend using a digital caliper to ensure flushness of seal as these are prone to leakage if not properly done. (highly advise NOT buying NAPA brand, OEM preferred & can be found on ebayfor around 16 bucks each) | Digital caliper New diff seal Seal press, old seal or PVC pipe |
Step 10 | Take new cv axle and apply gear oil/grease to “C” clip on the end and face the clip with the opening facing down. Then insert end into differential. Carefully maneuver axle until you feel it fit in the grooves, then using the movement of the axle, pop it into the differential. Your dust shield should be flush/close to flush when properly inserted | Grease |
Step 11 | Put all parts back together. Recommend cleaning bolts and using anti-seize or Loctite. This is what I use for torque specs, manual may vary: Upper ball joint: 81 lb/ft Lower ball joint: 117 lb/ft tie rod bolts: ~ 70 lb/ft Brake caliper bolts: ~ 75 lb/ft Speed sensor bolts: ~10 lb/ft | 10mm socket 12mm socket 17mm socket 19mm socket 24mm socket Cotter pins Torque wrench |
Step 12: | Put retaining clip back on CV axle, put grease in cap and put cap back on using rubber mallet) | Mallet Optional: ring pliers |
Step 13: | Add gear oil if you lost oil during this process or your doing a gear oil flush. Using a t55 bit remove fill bolt first (ensuring you can fill the diff before draining it) Then use the same t55 bit to remove drain bolt. Once drained, clean the metal shavings from the drain bolt and put it back in Recommended to replace the crush washer/gasket on plugs but if you aren’t planning on beating it up and your washer is in good shape it is not necessary. Again, highly recommended, not 100% required. Fill with SAE 75W-90 gear oil until some overflow occurs or you can reach in and feel oil at the top Insert fill plug Torque specs: 36 lb/ft | Sae 75w-90 gear oil T55 bit Wrench Torque wrench |
I’m sure I missed something but I followed these instructions myself when I had to redo my seal (cause I messed up the first replacement ) and it worked well. Good luck and let me know how it goes!