Front CV Axle & Differential Seal Replacement (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 28, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
5
Location
Minnesota
Hi all!
When I replaced my cv axle and seals I found it annoying to have to track down all the info in one place. So I decided to make a write up of all the steps. Sadly no pictures but hopefully some people can help with that.
Anyways, here is a step by step:
Front CV Axle and Front Differential Seal Replacement:
Step:Instructions:Tools Needed:
Step 1Remove Tire, wheel hub cap and cv axle retainer ring22mm socket
Wrench/impact gun
Pry bar, chisel, flathead screwdriver
Step 2Remove brake caliper (17 or 18mm) and wheel speed sensor (10mm at sensor, 12mm for frame bolts) (Speed sensor is prone to breakage, so be delicate. If you destroy it buy replacement here on Amazon for cheap or buy oem)17mm socket
10mm socket
12mm socket
Wrench (impact is too large to fit)
Recommend a breaker bar if this is first time removing bolts or they are rusted on there
Small pry bar for speed sensor
Step 3Remove Tie Rod Bolts from backside of knuckle (both 19mm)19mm socket
Breaker bar & wrench
Step 4Loosen top and bottom ball joints after removing cotter pins. Once loose, using a hammer, strike the thickened parts until both are loose) Top ball joint is 19mm and bottom is 24mm (KEEP CASTLE NUTS LOOSELY ON AS TO AVOID DAMAGING THREADS OR HAVING KNUCKLE DROP)Pliers
19mm socket
24 mm socket
Metal hammer
Step 5Remove Knuckle and set aside
Step 6Using a rope, tie it to the base of cv axle (as close to differential hub as possible). Tie the other end to a hammer and swing in air as hard as you can or until it pops out (make sure to reset cv axle every swing by pushing it back into diff hub)
If this method does not work, carefully use a pry bar inbetweenhub and axle
Mule tape/tough rope
Metal hammer
Optional: pry bar
Step 7Once CV axle is removed, check front differential seal. If it has been replaced recently or looks to be in good condition, my recommendation is to not replace it. However if water was introduced or you are doing a tune up then here is how you replace front seal
Step 8Using a seal removal tool or a pry bar, carefully get behind old seal and pluck it out (BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE INTERNALS ON DIFF)Pry bar
Seal puller
Step 9Once seal is removed, clean the inside of the diff to ensure it is clear of obstructions. Then take new seal, (Part #90311-47013 for driver side and # 90311-47027 for passenger) and put gear oil around rim of seal and inside of diff. Nowusing the old seal, a seal press or even a proper sized piece of PVC, LIGHTLY start tapping new seal in until it is FLUSH with the race/lipon the inside of diff, or approx. 5.5mm in. Do NOT go past this line! Highly recommend using a digital caliper to ensure flushness of seal as these are prone to leakage if not properly done. (highly advise NOT buying NAPA brand, OEM preferred & can be found on ebayfor around 16 bucks each)Digital caliper
New diff seal
Seal press, old seal or PVC pipe
Step 10Take new cv axle and apply gear oil/grease to “C” clip on the end and face the clip with the opening facing down. Then insert end into differential. Carefully maneuver axle until you feel it fit in the grooves, then using the movement of the axle, pop it into the differential. Your dust shield should be flush/close to flush when properly insertedGrease
Step 11Put all parts back together. Recommend cleaning bolts and using anti-seize or Loctite. This is what I use for torque specs, manual may vary:
Upper ball joint: 81 lb/ft
Lower ball joint: 117 lb/ft
tie rod bolts: ~ 70 lb/ft
Brake caliper bolts: ~ 75 lb/ft
Speed sensor bolts: ~10 lb/ft
10mm socket
12mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
24mm socket
Cotter pins
Torque wrench
Step 12: Put retaining clip back on CV axle, put grease in cap and put cap back on using rubber mallet)Mallet
Optional: ring pliers
Step 13: Add gear oil if you lost oil during this process or your doing a gear oil flush. Using a t55 bit remove fill bolt first (ensuring you can fill the diff before draining it)
Then use the same t55 bit to remove drain bolt.
Once drained, clean the metal shavings from the drain bolt and put it back in
Recommended to replace the crush washer/gasket on plugs but if you aren’t planning on beating it up and your washer is in good shape it is not necessary. Again, highly recommended, not 100% required.
Fill with SAE 75W-90 gear oil until some overflow occurs or you can reach in and feel oil at the top
Insert fill plug
Torque specs: 36 lb/ft
Sae 75w-90 gear oil
T55 bit
Wrench
Torque wrench

I’m sure I missed something but I followed these instructions myself when I had to redo my seal (cause I messed up the first replacement 🤬) and it worked well. Good luck and let me know how it goes!
 
I've heard the rope method works on FJ Cruiser axles but haven't seen anyone using it on a 100.
On FJ's dyneema is recommended due to less stretching and a sharper impact. Also, a High Lift bar was used in lew of a hammer......
Did you actually succeed popping the axle loose using the rope method on your 100?
 
I've heard the rope method works on FJ Cruiser axles but haven't seen anyone using it on a 100.
On FJ's dyneema is recommended due to less stretching and a sharper impact. Also, a High Lift bar was used in lew of a hammer......
Did you actually succeed popping the axle loose using the rope method on your 100?
Yes. I had my dad help me but it worked. you have to push the axle in a bit after every swing so the c clip isn’t sitting right up against the stop.
 
Good to know, thanks. Seems like a safer way than crawling under the truck and whacking it with a drift while the wheel is off, especially when out in the field somewhere. I'll give it a try next time I need to pull an axle.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom