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Front Brake Pads

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Brentbba, Dec 17, 2003.

  1. Brentbba

    Brentbba Former Golfer SILVER Star

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    Ok, going to tackle the front brakes this weekend with father-in-law as instructor.

    I know there are both the regular pads and TRD pads available for my '94.

    Any feedback on wear! or performance of the two pads. If I can get a little better wear out of the TRD's they might be worth the extra 12 bucks for the set. If less, obviously not.

    Input on this and tips on the actual job (I know you have all said it is very EZ) are appreciated.
     
  2. sjcruiser

    sjcruiser

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    Brent,

    If your brake is fine now (no pulsation ect...), the job is pretty much straight forward: remove tires->remove retaining pins->remove old pads->compress caliper pistons(open master cylinder & watch for overflow)->put in new pads->reverse operations ==> DONE

    TRD pads improves brake performance (more %metal) but also wear out your rotors ealier; kinda subjective on what you really want.

    Regards,
    Frank.
     
  3. Landpimp

    Landpimp

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    I would pass on the TRD pads, they use to be good(made by Performance Friction) but a few years ago changed vendors and they SUCK, mine were gone in under 5k. OEM or Axxis Metal Masters(which is what I run on 3 of my Cruisers and love em)
     
  4. bjowett

    bjowett Supporting Vendor

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    The TRD pads are a rebox of the Performance Friction Carbon pads. You can pick those up all day long for $30 - $40.
     
  5. Landpimp

    Landpimp

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    [quote author=bjowett link=board=2;threadid=8903;start=msg77058#msg77058 date=1071703767]
    The TRD pads are a rebox of the Performance Friction Carbon pads. You can pick those up all day long for $30 - $40.
    [/quote]

    they use to be(PF) and they were good and maybe are again but 3 or so years ago they came in a white box and were made in England........prolly by Lucas :D and they suck!
     
  6. Brentbba

    Brentbba Former Golfer SILVER Star

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    5K yikes. I get 15K and no more on the OEM pads. They are just starting to let me know it's time to change them. Gorgeous sunny 72 degrees at lunch and had the windows down and heard that faint wear indicator. Sorry for the mention of sunny and 72 degrees for all you fawkers buried in snow. :flipoff2: I personally miss a white christmas.
     
  7. concretejungle

    concretejungle SILVER Star

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    I had NAPA pads on but switched to the OEM toyota pads. I have noticed a huge difference in the amount of brake dust produced by the toyota pads. THe napa pads didn't produce nearly the dust, but i don't believe they stopped as well either. Anyone else notice lotsa dust with OEM pads?
     
  8. Mr.Bryan

    Mr.Bryan

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    I use akebono brake pads. They're ceramic and they are supposed to last like 80,000 mi. We'll see if that happens, but I've had em for a good 10k and they still look new. They stop much better then OEM too. But yea, just replacing pads is stupid easy. Just remember what you take off, goes back on. If you need to take notes in steps of what you take off and then just follow it back and put each part back on. But its like a 1.5 bannana job. Dont be affraid.

    -Bryan
     
  9. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    [quote author=concretejungle link=board=2;threadid=8903;start=msg77066#msg77066 date=1071704858]
    I had NAPA pads on but switched to the OEM toyota pads. I have noticed a huge difference in the amount of brake dust produced by the toyota pads. THe napa pads didn't produce nearly the dust, but i don't believe they stopped as well either. Anyone else notice lotsa dust with OEM pads?
    [/quote]

    That's funny. I've noticed the opposite. Very little dust from OEM 80 pads and tons of dust from aftermarket.
     
  10. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    [quote author=Mr.Bryan link=board=2;threadid=8903;start=msg77069#msg77069 date=1071704971]
    I use akebono brake pads. They're ceramic and they are supposed to last like 80,000 mi. We'll see if that happens, but I've had em for a good 10k and they still look new. They stop much better then OEM too.
    [/quote]

    Pads are a lot cheaper than rotors.
     
  11. Mr.Bryan

    Mr.Bryan

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    Pads are alot cheaper then rotors, but I replaced both and I got the slotted DBA rotors. Just dont slam on the brakes and eveythings good! :D
     
  12. concretejungle

    concretejungle SILVER Star

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    Mr. Bryan,

    Keep me posted as to how you like the slotted rotors. Thinking of getting them next pad change. Just turned my rotors and replaced the pads 8,000 miles ago and they are already starting to pulse agian.
     
  13. Eduardo96FZJ80

    Eduardo96FZJ80

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    Brent,
    I am running the 100 series pads with cross drilled rotors, very pleased so far.
    I also tried the "performance friction carbon" pads (generic TRD)
    and found them to be of less than desiarable, quality.

    and about the weather, still in shorts and sandals!! :D
    :flipoff2: that white christmas crap!! get a santa snowball thingy!!
     
  14. Brentbba

    Brentbba Former Golfer SILVER Star

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    I'll pass on the snow ball thingy! LOL Had the rotors replaced at 90K, so I figure I've got another 60K to go before replacing them again. Are they as easy to replace as the pads are supposed to be?

    Another question, and I've done the search thing - What is the proper ft lb torque for the lug nuts? Also proper torque on the oil drain plug. May as well do it right!
     
  15. sjcruiser

    sjcruiser

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    Front rotors removal involves removing the hubs as well (thus bearings repacked). Easy but requires few tools (snapring plier, hub socket...)

    Proper torque for alum. wheels is 76lbs. Never torque my oil drain plug so I don't know (have always done by feels).

    Frank.
     
  16. ParadiseCruiser

    ParadiseCruiser

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    B -

    >> Another question, and I've done the search thing - What is the proper ft lb torque for the lug nuts? Also proper torque on the oil drain plug. May as well do it right!

    76 ft/lbs (alum wheels)
    109 ft/lbs (steel wheels)
    18 lbs eng oil drain plug

    Cheers, R -
     
  17. Brentbba

    Brentbba Former Golfer SILVER Star

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  18. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Wait.................... :eek:


    The proper torque for 93-94 alloy wheels is 109 lbft.

    The 93-94 alloys have hardened conical steel inserts and use the same design lug nut as the OEM steel wheels use. The wheels look the same as 95-up but 95-up use shank-type lug nuts.

    Just splitting hairs :rolleyes:

    D-
     
  19. Mr.Bryan

    Mr.Bryan

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    [quote author=concretejungle link=board=2;threadid=8903;start=msg77093#msg77093 date=1071708528]
    Mr. Bryan,

    Keep me posted as to how you like the slotted rotors. Thinking of getting them next pad change. Just turned my rotors and replaced the pads 8,000 miles ago and they are already starting to pulse agian.
    [/quote]

    I love the slotted rotors. I had to do an emergency stop today as some retard in an altima couldnt drive. The truck stops much faster then stock. They are def. good in my eyes. I'll try and check the wear on them too.
     
  20. Brentbba

    Brentbba Former Golfer SILVER Star

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    Thanks Dan!

    Just a LITTLE difference there.

    We just got fawked at work yesterday. Good news - we all get the next two weeks off. Bad news - we have to use our vacation time. Will have plenty of time to do the brakes now.

    Company is not doing well. Anyone know of an Orange County, CA company looking for a good Controller/Accounting Manager?