Front brake job cost?

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Joined
May 27, 2011
Threads
61
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1,020
Location
Austin, Texas
Its about time to replace all my pads, resurface the rotors or replace them and repack the front bearings. I can replace the pads and rotors but have never done a bearing repack. I called a local shop yesterday to get a quote for the front and I would do the rear, I about hit the floor when they quoted me almost $500 for the front only! WT:censor:? This seems crazy expensive! Pads should be about $60 per set, resurface rotors, $15 per, that leaves $400 for labor plus they said they replaced the seals, those cant be that expensive.?.

What should a front brake job with repack go for? :confused:
 
Dealer here said I needed new front pads which necessarily includes turning rotors and packing bearings and quoted $380. I bought new pads for $62 and garnet paper for $1 a sheet and did it myself. Don't know as to the bearings but you can compare the price I was quoted.
 
Before I spent the $500 I'd spend a little more and order the PowerStop rotor and pads from Slee. I did and money well spent. Many other options out there that MUD folks have been happy with also.
 
Depends on the seals...the large diameter inner seal for the hubs are about $65 each! If they go by the FSM 'parts to be replaced' guideline then there is a healthy list of parts that get replaced apart of a bearing repack: Cone washers, cone nuts, hub lock nut, snap-rings, dust cap, inner axle bearing seal...

TM is right: The price they've given you, assuming they do honest and competent work, is right on the money. And to reiterate what other's have stated: Front bearing repack and brake pad install is not a complicated job, although somewhat time consuming, and if you have even a slight interest in learning how to do it yourself...which would be good for trail repairs that may involve knowing how to do at least part of this job (disconnecting the front hubs for instance if you blow a front diff and/or CV shaft...out in the middle of BFE)...this would be the perfect time to make an investment in the required tools assuming you don't already have most of them...

And as you know there are good threads 'splaining how its done and a safety net of on-line helpers on this site you can lean on too ;)

If the rotors are relatively smooth to the touch and not heavily grooved/worn I'd give them a good sand down using garnet type sandpaper (only!) and call it a day. OTOH if they display a wear ring beyond the outer diameter reaches of the brake pad then I'd just replace them...you'll be happier in the long run whether you provide the labor for this job or you pay someone else for their's.

Just my $.02 and maybe all its worth :)
 
I am comfortabel doing the brake job and want to learn how to repack the bearings, is there a good thread that breaks down the repack process? I have searched and cant find one. I would much rather know the process and have the tools.
 
These links are in the FAQ section of our forum...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/35431-front-bearing-replacement.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/107389-front-rotor-removal.html

And Stoptech, apart of the instructions they made and include with their Big Brake Kit, did a super duper job of documenting this job complete with photos. Stoptech used to have the PDF on their website however I don't see it on their new website today. PM me your e-mail address and I'll e-mail it to you.

Dan
 
Thanks for the links, some good reads there.
 
Charles Maund charged me $380 about 2 years ago for the 04 for pad and repack. I think Champion was closer to $600 a few weeks ago (they are about due again) Edit: Front and rear brakes, machined rotos and pads and lube shaft $600 at Maund Dec 2010
 
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one more thing, might as well go tot dealer, Midas, and such don't know anything about packing the bearings, and charge about $300 for the fronts
 
I cant stand going to the dealership especially if I think I can do it myself. The video link along with the links above and instructions that were emailed to me give me the courage to tackle this job.
 
Yeah that dude has a lot of good tutorials. I plan on doing a brake replacement later in the spring as well. I might be calling you if i get stuck :)
 
Can someone elaborate on the ABS speed sensor & axel seal area, I dont want to damage it. Do I need to remove a connection, is there some sort of wired pigtail that connects to the hub?
 
The ABS sensor is held to the steering knuckle with a 10mm headed bolt. If your ABS sensor and/or the steering knuckle "port" it resides in is rusty/corroded you may not be able to remove the ABS sensor from the steering knuckle. Don't force it as you'll only break it. But if its too corroded to be removed you can follow the ABS sensor wire up to the engine bay and disconnect it from the connector in the engine bay and then just keep the wire with the knuckle...its a little more of a hassle but those ABS sensor wire assemblies are expensive...like $150-$200.
 
^ +1
If your ABS is OK, it pays to leave the sensor unmolested. Its may be badly frozen in the knuckle but still working fine. Attempting to unfreeze it will probably require a new sensor.
 
i just had the pads replaced fr and rr and it was just over $500. not bad for something i do every 80k.
 
I love these threads. When a poster questions the cost to do a job, but has never done it himself. We see this all the time. Not all people are mechanics. There are some people that should not even touch tools. That is the reality. Mud wants to make everyone a mechanic. Not a good thing.

I am all for one learning, and DIY, but don't question the costs before you have either done it or knows how to do it. What it the potential downside to botching the job? Trashed wheel bearings and spindle? Wheel coming of due to bearing seizing up?

Makes me think of the DIY bumper threads. Hey this sh#($t is way to expensive, I can do it for 1/2 the price. Anyone have the drawings and can post some pictures how DIY bumpers. PS, what welder should I buy?

:):):):)
 
Think about $400-500 for both front and rear is cost around here for brake jobs....at least at shop I use.
 
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