Front bearings, rotors, pads, and bushing (?) - too much?

[JS114]

Took the LC into the dealership after being baffled by a highway vibration in the steering wheel. Was told that the front passenger "axle bushing" was cracked and that my front rotors were warped and bearings were starting to make noise. At 210,000 miles, I can't say any of this is shocking.

What the tech described to me sounded like the spindle bushing, but I'm not 100% sure. $499 to replace.

Was also quoted $899 for the front brake job and bearings. I've previously been quoted $550 for just the bearings by a local Cruiser shop, so this doesn't seem completely crazy either. Time is an issue, so I'm not 100% I want to DIY this.

What would my parts cost be and approximate DIY labor hours? Floor jack, jack stands, air tools at my disposal...

I'm also trying to make sure I'm not being overquoted on the labor here because I believe there's some overlap with the bearings/brakes/bushing.

Any insight is appreciated.

 

[bucfl]

The dealer is going to over charge for hours and parts. The cruiser shop seems hi for just a bearing job. Call @cDan and get prices on parts. I saved almost 50% on parts alone. Then call the cruiser shop/dealer and get a quote for just labor.

I did my timing belt and my mechanic charged me $600 and i spent less than $500 on parts. That included EVERYTHING while in there and it was all OE.

 

[LockedNLoaded]

899 for front brakes and bearing seems insane to me. I assume at that price they are replacing the bearing, pads and rotors. If it's just for brake pads and re packing the bearing run away because they are raping you. I would contact @beno, he is in your area and can point you in the right direction.

 

[Doctor Koko]

Right now the parts alone for front brakes and bearings for this vehicle will run in the neighborhood of US $450 (give or take) if you buy all the parts online (remanufactured calipers included, mind you, which are the bulk of that figure (this is an estimate based on one website I was pricing from a couple of weeks ago when I bought most of those parts--I am not a vendor). That's just the parts, mind you. If you're pressed for time they're going to get expedited shipping which is a few bucks more.

A dealer service shop or private garage will mark those prices up because they are reselling them to you, essentially, and most charge "book time" for labor in most cases (this is one thing that irritates many consumers--a top ace mechanic might work four times as efficiently as the book says, but most shops still charge on book time anyway). I honestly think the quoted figure is fair and by no means "insane." This is a business, not your buddy who is helping you out, and you are paying for the luxury of having it done quickly in a shop by someone with knowledge and experience who is not you while you drink coffee or work at your own job (or both). Remember as well, they have to pay for shop space, wages, tools, advertising, insurance, taxes, benefits, and on and on. Businesses are costly to run and it irks me when people assume a marked up price from what they can do themselves at home means the business is shady or unethical. I like to do most of my own work not because I'm cheap (I am, I guess), but because it's satisfying and reassuring to put my eyes and hands on things and know I can address problems as they come up and not rely on someone else. However, if my daily driver develops an issue and my work schedule is going to keep me from addressing it in a timely manner, I take it to a shop and keep a stiff upper lip while paying.

By the way, if anyone wants to open up a charity garage to do the work on my cars for free or tips or a nice "thank you," please let me know.

 

[yeti in ga]

Where in the ATL are you ? I would love to come watch / help ... I think I need this also.

 

[duggy]

The shops have to make money, but my goodness.....$900 for brakes and bearings? That's insane.

 

[LockedNLoaded]

The OP did not say what was included in the "brake job" price quote. Without that info its hard to say if its a good quote. If its just rotors, pads, and repacking the wheel bearings I will stand by my insane comment because I am sorry that is insane. OP never said anything about calipers needing to be replaced. If they are functioning properly there is no reason to replace them. So again, it all depends on what is being replaced.

 

[CharlieS]

That's in line with what I paid the dealer the ONE time I paid them to fix my front brakes - middle of winter in VT, no garage to work in, needed to pass my safety inspection. You can do it yourself a lot cheaper. It isn't as simple as a typical brake job on your average sedan though - make sure you read up here on what you are getting into.

 

[bucfl]

So what would new rotors and pads be for all 4 corners?

 

[crimsonaudio]

My bud (a Toyota master tech that does side work) recently did my front brakes (including reman calipers), brake fluid flushed, and repacked the bearings for $535.

 

[DOGMARLEY]

I just had my front and rear rotors and pads replaced, bearings repacked, and brake fluid flushed for $675 front and $450 in the rear all factory parts at Toyota dealership. House prices included 4 new rotors.

 

[DOGMARLEY]

This price doesn't show the discount.

 

[bctlex]

That's in line with what I paid the dealer the ONE time I paid them to fix my front brakes - middle of winter in VT, no garage to work in, needed to pass my safety inspection. You can do it yourself a lot cheaper. It isn't as simple as a typical brake job on your average sedan though - make sure you read up here on what you are getting into.

I was getting tires balanced for my other car at local tire shop. I notice they can repack bearing, so I asked for price. This was a few months ago, but if my memory is correct, it was $500 for the front.

I really like to be able to repack bearing, but understand this is pretty involved process. I have replaced calipers and pads on other vehicles, but not on LC. Ideally, I like to watch and help someone do this before I try to do this on my own.

Chris

 

[llfarms]

I just did a full repack. It was not as hard as I thought. THere are a few DIYs here and on youtube that will help! Other than brake fluid and AHC fluid, my vehicle has moved to AMS oil. I even used it for the bearing repack...

Bearing repack:

Front Bearing Replacement

There is also a youtube vid on this also..

 

[LockedNLoaded]

I just did a full repack. It was not as hard as I thought. THere are a few DIYs here and on youtube that will help! Other than brake fluid and AHC fluid, my vehicle has moved to AMS oil. I even used it for the bearing repack...

Bearing repack:

Front Bearing Replacement

There is also a youtube vid on this also..

x2 this. I bearing repack is really not hard to do with all the info on mud and you tube. I have done it many times on various Toyota's and if I can do it anyone can. BTW good choice with Amsoil, its pricey but you get what you pay for with their products and according to my lab results Blackstone agrees.

 

[llfarms]

@LockedNLoaded, thanks.. Yeah, I really love their oil filters also. I have pictures and was going to post them to help all the fellow mudders who have really been crucial to making my Hundy a blessing. As for the parts Cdan can help you buy all the oil seals, lock washers, and gaskets. These were starting to go bad on mine and you could see where the peanut butter grease was being contaminated. I cleaned up my bearings and they were in great shape. I repacked them and back they went. I would say that I love knowing that my Hundy is now all buttoned up and I dont have to worry for another 2-3 years about the repack. You will also need the 54 mm deep socket for the axle nuts, i picked up mine from one of the sponsers for around @20.

 

[2001LC]

Heads up guys:::

Remember to set bearing preload, pack the drive shaft axle needle bearings and bushings and check the gap of the drive shaft axle snap ring.

Tip Slee Off Road has a great tool for greasing the axle bushing and needle bearings. It call a Slee GreaseMaster, save a great deal of time and reduce cost of job.

FSM recommends Moly fortified Lithium based NGLI #1 Grease for bushing. FSM is unclear on moly for needle bearing.

 

[JS114]

I had them to do it; I just don't have time. This is only my second trip to the dealer in 60k miles (the other being timing belt, tensioner, pulleys, and water pump), so I only have slight remorse (nothing a glass of bourbon won't fix).

It broke down to $828 for the brake job (rotors and pads) and bearings (replaced) and $465 to replace the passenger side knuckle bushing which had cracked and was the main cause of the vibration (which is thankfully now gone). They did the syn oil change and washed it for "free".

They had to replace 3 cone washers...no idea why, but this is exactly the kind of minor BS that turns a 4 hour garage project into a two-three day nightmare for me...

I'm struggling with what happened to the knuckle bushing...

 

[llfarms]

The spindle bearing spec nlgi 1 which we packed with AMS Oil Poly Synthetic. The inner bearing used Ngli 2. I used almost 3/4 tube for each. I used the ams oil web site and this is what it specd. My bearings were in good shape but the inner and outer seal were starting to fail because you could see where the peanut butter grease was turning black from contamination.

 

[2001LC]

Alert:
Moly should NOT be used in wheel bearings.
Moly retains heat, not allowing high speed bearings to dissipate heat (cool) properly. The FSM states moly on axle brushing only, it is unclear on needle bearings (axle roller bearings). I've been told by Toyota shop foreman that it is proper application for axle, but not wheel bearings.

Wheel bearing grease labels will read: Multi purpose High speed and/or wheel bearing and/or chassis lubrication.