Front axle truss

[White Stripe]

I have widened my front axle by a couple inches and am still using leaf springs in the front. I am considering a front axle truss like this:
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Toyota-79-85-Front-Axle-Truss_p_1710.html
I realize the most important trussing is between the spring perches and the knuckle balls. Whats your guys' opinion on also installing a truss like the link above shows in addition to knuckle trussing? I understand you have to be careful welding it to avoid warping. I want the housing to be reinforced enough to not have to worry about bending it. Also, their are trusses with 1/8 thick metal, and 3/16 thick available. Is 1/8 enough if I even need a truss?

 

[Mace]

It is very difficult to truss a cruiser housing enough without affecting the suspension travel. I would do something like the Marlin knuckle kit and then wheel it to see if you break. the center truss is helpful, but not on my big list..

https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front-axle-parts/front-axle-armor/heavy-duty-knuckle-gusset-kit

If it fails, upgrade to a Ruffstuff or Diamond housing.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/LC95HOS.html
http://www.diamondaxle.com/index.htm

 

[reddingcruiser]

It is very difficult to truss a cruiser housing enough without affecting the suspension travel. I would do something like the Marlin knuckle kit and then wheel it to see if you break. the center truss is helpful, but not on my big list..[/QUOTE]

X2 ^ Unless your wheeling style tends towards the extreme I would lean towards the Marlin knuckle kit. I have a widened 60 axle in my 40 and have never had a problem. But then my style is slow and steady, and I'm not to proud to drag out a winch line.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Oops, sorry Mace. My response ended up in your quote. Guess I CAN'T type and talk in the office.

 

[White Stripe]

Oops, sorry Mace. My response ended up in your quote. Guess I CAN'T type and talk in the office.

Any pics of your rig and the setup you have?

 

[reddingcruiser]

The reason I used the FJ60 axle and the extender sleeve was to be able to use a wheel with more than 3.5" of backspace without spacers and still keep the springs in the same FJ40 location under the frame.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Here's a pic of my work in progress. Works well, plenty of travel. This is the only pic I have on my work computer, but I have others showing just a tad more flex. If you're curious, FJ60 springs front and rear, extended FJ60 front axle (60" WMS to WMS), and FJ40 rear with spacers (Dana 60 under construction).

 

[White Stripe]

The reason I used the FJ60 axle and the extender sleeve was to be able to use a wheel with more than 3.5" of backspace without spacers and still keep the springs in the same FJ40 location under the frame.

Yea I am doing similar to that. Where did you get your fill plug insert? I like that. I am putting a fj80 axle in the back of mine-600 bucks for rear discs, full float, and a selectable locker from a junkyard. But I still will have to run a small spacer up front to match the wide fj80 axle. But only 1.25" spacers.

 

[reddingcruiser]

The plug is an SOR item. I'm sure others sell it too. I do it a little different now. When I have the axle stripped down for the C&T and I plan to rotate the pinion I calculate where the oil level needs to be and cut an oval with the stock plug at one end of the oval so that when I turn it 180º it is at the right elevation. Then I weld it in and dress it up and it looks like it came that way.

 

[Tools R Us]

... if I even need a truss?

Do you plan on jumping it or something?

 

[White Stripe]

The plug is an SOR item. I'm sure others sell it too. I do it a little different now. When I have the axle stripped down for the C&T and I plan to rotate the pinion I calculate where the oil level needs to be and cut an oval with the stock plug at one end of the oval so that when I turn it 180º it is at the right elevation. Then I weld it in and dress it up and it looks like it came that way.

Thats a great idea!!

 

[White Stripe]

Do you plan on jumping it or something?

Well I would like to a little bit in the dunes, nothing crazy though. I figure if I am doing all this work-if it only takes a little more work to make it jump worthy, I might as well do it. The axle is out, paint is stripped, and the welder is on, so I might as well. I just bought the Ballistic fab truss.

 

[handcannon]

There are mini-truck hubs, that will fit the 40 or 60, that give the offset without having to use spacers. I don't remember what years to look for, or how much they add to the WMS to WMS distance. But it is something you may find useful.

Don

 

[Mace]

Those are ifs hubs that fit, but you still need a spacer, it just sits between the hub and the brake disk.

 

[handcannon]

Mace, what's the reason for needing the spacers, and how much? Is it to provide a small amount of clearance to allow the rim to fit around the caliper body? I have a pair of the IFS hubs here with the idea that maybe someday I'll put them on, but they are still setting out in the shop.

Don

 

[Mace]

It's to put the disc rotor back in the proper location.

https://www.sky-manufacturing.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=TOY-FWS-001

 

[handcannon]

Thanks Mace. I understand your reply now. I originally misunderstood your reply, thinking spacer directly behind the rim, not between hub flange and disc.

Don