I am rebuilding my front axle and when I took the Steering Caps (43232-60031) off there are two shims underneath on both sides of the truck. The rebuild kit I got from Marks 4wd includes three new shims. I assume I just put two shims in since that is how the axle was when I took it apart. What are the shims for and am I correct on the assumption?
Front Axle Servicing Question (Shims) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter danmcph
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They are for centering axle in steering knuckle and setting proper pre-load on steering knuckle bearings......at a high level
Many/Most people just use same shims that were originally installed on top and separately bottom, they are each labeled with thickness.
But if you want to do it right/by the book watch the video below which explains exactly what shims are for, how to set up/rebuild front axle with SST
Its possible
The question is whether you know/are confident that this is the first rebuild and that it came from factory like that.
Even if it came from factory like that there could be changes that warrant change of shims
In my case I went to use tool to set up properly but the aftermarket tool didnt properly fit my HXJ77 axle so I had to go off original as I was confident it had not been done since new......2x .3 shims on bottom of each side but with that shim configuration the pre-load on the bearings was too low on one side so I had to reduce to 1x .3 shim on that side to get it into spec.....I offer this as anectdotal info only since I did same job recently and its fresh in my head.....your mileage may vary
If I could have obtained an SST that fit my axle at the time I would have 100% done it right without any question but knowing that I will likely be in the axle next year when I replace e-hubs its no big deal
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
The important point isn't the number of shims, it's the thickness and location of them. The shims are there to center the wheel/hub/etc between the upper/lower bearings so that the driveshaft points at the hub.
If you're just performing a knuckle service, that is, you are replacing seals and cleaning/repacking bearings, (or even replacing the hub bearings) you don't need to go through this exercise. However, if you replace the upper, lower, or both bearings, you should because there are slight, but possible significant, differences in total installed stack height of bearings (that's why there are bearing adjustments). When I say replacing, note that I do not mean removing the cone to clean and repack it. As long as the cup stays in place, the shims should be valid. There's no reason to remove the cup to repack the bearings, anyway.
FWIW, the FSM doesn't require you to recenter the bearings when they are replaced, but I would. I don;t know, but I would assume this procedure, and tool, works on al the Land Cruisers; it does on my 40 and 80s.
If you feel you have to have one, lots of people have them (09634-60012) for sale now, but they're not cheap:
Martin Crawler knuckle centering tool, $539
Specter Off Road knuckle centering tool, $364
City Racer, apparently it's summer vacation there, until 21JUN2023
Trail Tailor knuckle centering tool, $250 (they say it works on all Land Cruisers)
Some guy in Australia, AU $98
etc., etc.
The difference in price are probably due to the quality of the dimensional accuracy (the bushing pilot has to fit exactly) and whether or not the parts are hardened.
That's a lot of money for a tool you'll use exactly one time.
If you're just performing a knuckle service, that is, you are replacing seals and cleaning/repacking bearings, (or even replacing the hub bearings) you don't need to go through this exercise. However, if you replace the upper, lower, or both bearings, you should because there are slight, but possible significant, differences in total installed stack height of bearings (that's why there are bearing adjustments). When I say replacing, note that I do not mean removing the cone to clean and repack it. As long as the cup stays in place, the shims should be valid. There's no reason to remove the cup to repack the bearings, anyway.
FWIW, the FSM doesn't require you to recenter the bearings when they are replaced, but I would. I don;t know, but I would assume this procedure, and tool, works on al the Land Cruisers; it does on my 40 and 80s.
If you feel you have to have one, lots of people have them (09634-60012) for sale now, but they're not cheap:
Martin Crawler knuckle centering tool, $539
Specter Off Road knuckle centering tool, $364
City Racer, apparently it's summer vacation there, until 21JUN2023
Trail Tailor knuckle centering tool, $250 (they say it works on all Land Cruisers)
Some guy in Australia, AU $98
etc., etc.
The difference in price are probably due to the quality of the dimensional accuracy (the bushing pilot has to fit exactly) and whether or not the parts are hardened.
That's a lot of money for a tool you'll use exactly one time.
The FSM for you vehicle will list the p/n for the SST for your vehicle that you can use to search for in search engine, megazip or your toyota dealer
There's some over lap as I understand it in use across different vehicles but its not universal
Trail Tailor advertises a copy of one of the tools that works for most vehicles but I can tell you from experience it does not work on an HZJ77....prob wont work on your 73
The issue with the above tool on the 77 is that the adapter for the scribe that fits into the axle tube doesnt fit the tube on the 77....a machinist friend is going to make an adapter for me but......
I would look in your fsm for your vehicle under the front axle rebuild section
Go buy a can of dykem blue/layout fluid
Above is an example
Like in the video previously posted you will spray it on the center pivot to be marked by the scribe when mounted in the ball/axle and separately in the knuckle
This stuff is not frequently avail locally
I used a sharpie.
Wait, I thought the 80 series knuckle is shimmed only from the top so there is no need to "center" the knuckle. So no sst for 80 required.
This was my understanding as well. I used no tool or shims in my knuckle rebuild, which included replacing the top and bottom trunnion bearings. Or well, maybe there was a shim on the bottom of the top trunnion cap. I just put it back on re-assy.
Thought that tool was only necessary for 40 axles.
This tool is for LCs up to 1990 I believe. Just called SOR. It is not needed and the knuckle on the 80 is too big for the tool anyway. Did you receive it?
