From FJ Cruiser, to 80 Series, to GX460 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The lift is planned to be done in my garage next weekend. I've found the YouTube channel Sandy Cats and he's got some great information on fitting 35's on a GX. While I'm not fitting 35's with a -30 offset and 12.5 inch wide wheels like he did, the overall process should be about the same.
I have taken off the following Monday to try and give myself a 3 day weekend for the install and test fitting, I'm hoping to be able to get all that done as well as the alignment done in that allotted 3 day period.

I do have a few KDSS questions; my Ironman kit came with a set of spacers for the KDSS system, I assume for them to be for the rear. Do I not need anything for the front? If I install the Ironman supplied bits on the rear, will I be good to go with the 3 inch lift?
I also have seen Dr KDSS has some parts that may be helpful, but not sure if they're needed right off the bat or if they can be added later - the sway bar clamps (front and rear) and the sway bar end adapters.
I do plan to get the Dr KDSS panhard bar bolt on correction plate, but 1. I'm not sure it will be here in time and 2. imagine I can install that at anytime after this job if it's not here in time.

My current plan is to pretty much follow Sandy Cats plan -
Uninstall the stock coils and shocks, start fitting and test fitting and cutting and bending to get the wheels and tires to fit nicely, set my bump stops accordingly (likely just with washers for now vs new bump stops), finish the uninstall, basically UCA's, and then begin the install of the new lift parts. After the lift is on I will address the panhard bar, lower trailing arms, and KDSS spacers. I believe I'm safe to do that last. (??)
Once the lift is on, drive straight to get an alignment.

I will have the stock TPS's moved from the stock wheel setup to the new wheels setup when getting them mounted, and now I just want to ensure I've got everything else accounted for.
That seems to boil down to the KDSS bits. Initial thought, is that the spacers included with my Ironman Lift should be sufficient, but then seeing Dr KDSS items, I'm not sure. I also am not sure what to do about the front vs the rear.

One final question or concern (I will follow this up with a photo this evening) my Ironman rear shocks are not identical. One shock has a sleeve over it with a built in washer at the top, the other one does not. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be this way or if it serves any purpose but to me it doesn't seem correct.
 
You're unbolting the rear KDSS brackets to do the lift anyway, so you should just stick those spacers on before you bolt everything back up after installing the rear shocks/springs. That will be easy. My spacers got delayed by USPS and didn't arrive until after my lift was installed.
I currently have no KDSS lean from installation, alignment, or daily driving for a couple of weeks at ~2.25 inches of lift all around. I haven't done any offroading or articulation/travel tests with the new suspension because I believe KDSS lean really starts from heavy articulation and a lift. I will be installing Treaty Oak rear spacers and Dr KDSS front relocation brackets this weekend. I also have the DrKDSS panhard correction and f/r locking rings planned for Saturday. I went with the front relocation brackets vs a front spacer as it works better with skid plates and keeps geometry consistent on both corners.

I think you'll need to get your lift, rear arms, and adjustable panhard installed and set to figure out if you need a panhard relocation. It may not be a bad idea even with the adjustable bar since the bar changes length but the relocation changes pivot point. I can tell you with a 2.25 inch lift and stock panhard, I notice a little shimmy in certain instances like bumps on corner entry. It's not a dangerous thing and probably not noticeable to a lot of people, but I can tell.
 
I've got a 2017 with a Dobinson's IMS 2" lift that I "helped" install. We were able to get everything in without having to touch the KDSS shutter valves. I originally had all three KDSS spacers installed. So 2 on the back and 1 front passenger side on the fixed KDSS link. I didn't install a new panhard bar. The alignment shop (which does a lot of work on modded 4x4s) said they didn't think a new panhard bar was needed considering the low lift.

After some time, I noticed that the front KDSS shock was contacting the backside of the CBI skid plate. The CBI skid plate is very wide and extends past the KDSS mount points to the front sway bar. I researched further and found out about Dr. KDSS. As I understand it, the KDSS spacers were originally meant to address droop and not lean. His recommendation now is to not run the front KDSS spacer as it extends the front KDSS piston too far out such that there's a danger it could fallout under heavy articulation. I took out the front KDSS spacer. There's now a lot more room between the backside the CBI skid plate and the KDSS shock mount at the sway bar. I hope it's enough to prevent the KDSS shock from hitting the skid. The sway bar bushings also seem to be at a much more relaxed position with that KDSS spacer removed. It's still not at the factory angle. Dr. KDSS sells a set of sway bar relocation brackets to help correct the bushing angle. I've been thinking about getting them, but also noticed that those sway bar bushings don't seem very expensive to replace if they happen to wear out prematurely. I was told that running the rear KDSS spacers should be fine. I've kept them in since they opened up some space to stuff a 265/70/17 spare without touching the rear sway bar.

Regarding lean, I still had up to maybe a 2cm lean towards the passenger side even with all three KDSS spacers installed. The lean would seem to come and go. A 2cm difference is definitely noticeable when looking at the back. Other times I wasn't able to notice any difference in height. Now that the front KDSS spacer is out, I haven't noticed any additional leaning. In fact, as the GX sits right now without the front KDSS spacer, the lean is under 2cm. I think Lexus considers anything under 2cm to be within spec.

I brought the GX in to the Lexus dealer for service a few weeks ago and chatted for a bit with the Lexus service rep. He's got a lifted 4Runner and is into overlanding. His friend has a 460 and the Dr. KDSS on/off harness kit. He gave a big thumbs up on that for smoothing out things while offroading. So, that's something I'm considering. Apparently, cycling through turning KDSS on/off can also help equalize the KDSS fluid and fix lean.
 
You're unbolting the rear KDSS brackets to do the lift anyway, so you should just stick those spacers on before you bolt everything back up after installing the rear shocks/springs.
I didn't unbolt the rear sway bar to install my lift, but I guess you could. It's easy to install the spacers either way.

I have installed 35s and 3" lift and never had KDSS lean.

I think the front Dr KDSS relocation brackets basically allow the suspension to fully droop out without the sway bar bushings binding. Most lifts are set up to allow some extra droop (see Tinkerers Adventure videos for info on extended travel lifts).
 
I think you'll need to get your lift, rear arms, and adjustable panhard installed and set to figure out if you need a panhard relocation. It may not be a bad idea even with the adjustable bar since the bar changes length but the relocation changes pivot point. I can tell you with a 2.25 inch lift and stock panhard, I notice a little shimmy in certain instances like bumps on corner entry. It's not a dangerous thing and probably not noticeable to a lot of people, but I can tell.
Front what I've read so far, with a 3" lift, it's pretty much understood a panhard relocation will help. The bracket may replace the need for a new panhard bar itself.

As far as lean, I had lean on my 94 Land Cruiser. I guess I'll trouble shoot that if/when it's an issue with me.
I've got a 2017 with a Dobinson's IMS 2" lift that I "helped" install. We were able to get everything in without having to touch the KDSS shutter valves. I originally had all three KDSS spacers installed. So 2 on the back and 1 front passenger side on the fixed KDSS link. I didn't install a new panhard bar. The alignment shop (which does a lot of work on modded 4x4s) said they didn't think a new panhard bar was needed considering the low lift.
I'm planning on opening the shutter valve while doing this job.
The Ironman kit includes the rear spacers, so I'll install those this go around. If there are issues to follow, I think I'll start with some Dr KDSS parts and see what helps.

I didn't unbolt the rear sway bar to install my lift, but I guess you could. It's easy to install the spacers either way.

I have installed 35s and 3" lift and never had KDSS lean.

I think the front Dr KDSS relocation brackets basically allow the suspension to fully droop out without the sway bar bushings binding. Most lifts are set up to allow some extra droop (see Tinkerers Adventure videos for info on extended travel lifts).
I've read through you thread before, but cant recall; I'm going to go through again - but how much rubbing did you run into when getting it all sorted with the 35's. I obviously know there is going to be a good bit of trimming and cutting, just curious of your thoughts.
Once you got it to where you thought it was set, did you run into any rubbing issues on your first few trips off road? Is it still an ongoing issue?


In general, I think I have a pretty good understanding of what I need for this upcoming weekend. The more I've read and looked up on YT, the more 1. confident I am doing the lift itself 2. Nervous about time (and cutting on a brand new Lexus) when I start to fit the wheels and tires.

My backup plan is to just ride on stock wheels and tires for awhile if needed, but I'm trying to get this all sorted in one go.
On top of the lift, wheels and tires, I'm adding in a rear diff breather, and if time allows my BudBuilt Skids.

My Victory 4x4 order should be in Monday, and from that order I think my rear bumper install will be the next project. But for now, one weekend at a time.

Got the tires mounted on the wheels and swapped over my stock sensors over to the new set. I am really digging the color combo. Just ready to be riding on them!!!

9D376878-585D-4C5D-90C3-9BD2ED1D025B.jpeg


6FC34085-F7C7-4ADA-85AA-BCEA4670A2B1.jpeg


655600B8-3187-40DB-B691-3EE2EBACB415.jpeg


AFE045F7-D392-4A69-855A-AD9A57CE7EDC.jpeg

5 17x9 wheels and 5 34” tires
 
Great looking tire/rim combo for your rig! 👍
 
I've read through you thread before, but cant recall; I'm going to go through again - but how much rubbing did you run into when getting it all sorted with the 35's. I obviously know there is going to be a good bit of trimming and cutting, just curious of your thoughts.
Once you got it to where you thought it was set, did you run into any rubbing issues on your first few trips off road? Is it still an ongoing issue?
Funny you should ask - just did some snow wheeling in northern Minnesota over the weekend. I was pleased that I only heard a few light touches from the tires. I have a few tweaks planned that should alleviate even these eventually, once the weather warms. up and I can get out in the driveway.

I do think narrower tires make fitment a lot easier; I have 11.5" tread width (35x11.5x17).
 
Dang, those are wide. But they do look great. I also mispoke, my wheels are 17x8.5, not 17x9.

I'm getting pretty excited for this upcoming weekend. This will be the biggest weekend wrench job I've done in a few years. I've also never cut body panels, even if just slightly.
I've also never taken my daily under the knife without having a viable backup method of transportation. This will be a first.
 
Dang, those are wide. But they do look great. I also mispoke, my wheels are 17x8.5, not 17x9.

I'm getting pretty excited for this upcoming weekend. This will be the biggest weekend wrench job I've done in a few years. I've also never cut body panels, even if just slightly.
I've also never taken my daily under the knife without having a viable backup method of transportation. This will be a first.
Just take your time and try to have a second person on hand, as a third (or forth) hand or catch you if you're stating to do something wrong. Also, that second person is real handy for fetching tools when you're crawled under your rig.
 
Those wheels are gonna look rad as hell once everything gets installed.

I also have full BudBuilt skids which I put through rigorous testing by installing them 8 months before getting a lift. They work. This is another job where having a helper makes things way easier. The extra crossmember for the transfer case plate kind of needs 3 hands to fish the captive nut through the frame, hold the bar, and get the bolt threaded in. Also leave all the bolts a little loose as you get everything slotted together. You'll need a little wiggle room to get all the plates situated.
 
Also leave all the bolts a little loose as you get everything slotted together. You'll need a little wiggle room to get all the plates situated.
Thanks for pointing that out.
That should go without saying, never tighten any fasteners until they've all been thread started.
Had to teach my daughters old boyfriend that when we were do a project the garage. He immediately tightened the first fastener and he was not able to align the other holes. Had to tell him to always leave everything loose until everything been started. Lessen learned... He was a big guy and also had to teach him not to guerilla tighten all fasteners either. Unless you're using a torque wrench, just snug down and give another little 1/8 - 1/4 turn to finish tighten, of course dependent upon material, threads of the fasteners and what you're fastening.
 
Just take your time and try to have a second person on hand, as a third (or forth) hand or catch you if you're stating to do something wrong. Also, that second person is real handy for fetching tools when you're crawled under your rig.
Unfortunately, this will be a solo project. I miiight have another set of hands for a brief time, but I'm aiming to do it all solo.

Those wheels are gonna look rad as hell once everything gets installed.

I also have full BudBuilt skids which I put through rigorous testing by installing them 8 months before getting a lift. They work. This is another job where having a helper makes things way easier. The extra crossmember for the transfer case plate kind of needs 3 hands to fish the captive nut through the frame, hold the bar, and get the bolt threaded in. Also leave all the bolts a little loose as you get everything slotted together. You'll need a little wiggle room to get all the plates situated.
I'm very excited for the wheels. I like them more than a brighter bronze color, I also am a huge fan of the style. And against the Nori Green, *chefs kiss*.
For the BudBuilt skids, thats fantastic. They seem like serious quality. In a perfect world, I would have absolutely loved stainless skids, but I didnt have that in the budget this go around.
I thought I ordered Powder Coated, but I guess I didnt. They came bare metal, I had to get the powder coated local to me, but I was shocked at the price.
$150 for everything, and less than a 24 hour turnaround from the shop I used.
I was expecting 3x the cost and at least a week turnaround.

If I run into issues with installing the skids, I should be able to call some help for them. I'm not too confident I'll get to the skids this weekend, if I do, it'll just be a nice bonus.

Alignments -
Whats the deal with alignments? I figured I'd need one after the lift, but should I also get one after I install skids/rear bumper/front bumper/sliders? I didn't think about extra weight really changing my alignment much, but I'm here for it if I need to be.
 
I thought I ordered Powder Coated, but I guess I didnt. They came bare metal, I had to get the powder coated local to me, but I was shocked at the price.
$150 for everything, and less than a 24 hour turnaround from the shop I used.
I was expecting 3x the cost and at least a week turnaround.
Could be the logistics again. Fabricators can't get enough raw material to do projects to get them powder coated, thus powder coater's arn't very busy. As I was coming home from (Army) drill on Saturday, I usually take PCH (Pacific Coast Hwy) home on nice days. As I turned left onto PCH in Huntington Beach, there were still a bunch of container ships sitting off the coast waiting to get into Long Beach to unload.
I though that was over?
 
For the BudBuilt skids, thats fantastic. They seem like serious quality. In a perfect world, I would have absolutely loved stainless skids, but I didnt have that in the budget this go around.
I thought I ordered Powder Coated, but I guess I didnt. They came bare metal, I had to get the powder coated local to me, but I was shocked at the price.
Powdercoating skids or sliders can be a waste of money if they actually are used for their intended purpose. No coating will hold up to the weight of the vehicle concentrated on the point of a rock. And once the powder coating is breached it is free to rust underneath. I just assume I will to repaint my steel armor annually (rattle can).
 
Alignments -
Whats the deal with alignments? I figured I'd need one after the lift, but should I also get one after I install skids/rear bumper/front bumper/sliders? I didn't think about extra weight really changing my alignment much, but I'm here for it if I need to be.
Absolutely do an alignment after the lift as the geometry of the steering changes with the lift, which will aggressively wear the inner edge of the tires (don't ask how I know this). The other stuff, I guess it just depends how much you change your ride height. But tires ain't cheap...
 
Powdercoating skids or sliders can be a waste of money if they actually are used for their intended purpose. No coating will hold up to the weight of the vehicle concentrated on the point of a rock. And once the powder coating is breached it is free to rust underneath. I just assume I will to repaint my steel armor annually (rattle can).
My main reason for pc was to prevent rust.

It was either that, or rattle can. And for $150, I decided PC. And I’ll touch up as needed with either a rattle can or another method of paint.
 
Absolutely do an alignment after the lift as the geometry of the steering changes with the lift, which will aggressively wear the inner edge of the tires (don't ask how I know this). The other stuff, I guess it just depends how much you change your ride height. But tires ain't cheap...
100% after the lift, wheels and tires. Just didn’t dawn on me for the added weight from bumpers and skids etc to worry about an alignment.

Tires ain’t cheap tho. That’s a fact.
 
My main reason for pc was to prevent rust.

It was either that, or rattle can. And for $150, I decided PC. And I’ll touch up as needed with either a rattle can or another method of paint.
I like having everything properly powdercoated so I don't have to worry about the non-contact parts of the skids. Occasionally going under the truck with a wire brush and can of spray paint is an easy job for touch ups.
 
Making solid progress on the lift and fitment of the wheels and tires. Started Friday night and was able to get the stock shocks and UCA's out with little fuss. Put the new Ironman UCA's in without putting the coilover in so I can test fitment.
At the body mount chop now, and getting pulled away to do something else for a bit.

UCA bolt on the passenger side was an absolute bear to break free. The breaker bar I had didnt fit over the wrench I had to use, and there was absolutely no way to get an impact on it without doing some wild stuff.

Passenger stock shock (shock or coilover?!?!? idk. In my head it's a coilover, but i see them called shocks all over the place) did not come out very easy. The bottom bolt had lots of tension on it, I believe its from the KDSS and swaybar, curious what that means when I go to put the Ironman coilover in.

This wheel and tire setup, I think, is going to be much easier to fit than a 35x12x17 -25 or more offset. That's an obvious statement, but I'm not sure that I'll even need to trim the front bumper or the side step for this. I may, just because I could go ahead and prep for the Victory 4x4 sliders and front bumper, but that will depend on time.

Once I get the body mount chop done, I'm very curious how much I'll have to hammer the sheet metal in the wheel well back. That will be my biggest time and labor suck. But hopefully everything on the passenger side will go much faster.

The rears should be very fast in comparison to the fronts.

Anyways, fun stuff. Wish me luck.
 
Overall it was a decent. Lift is in, Panhard bar is in, KDSS spacers in, wheels and tires on.

Still have some rubbing to deal with, I guess to be expected, but I thought I cleared all the places I'm rubbing so that's not instilling confidence in me.

The rears should be very fast in comparison to the fronts.
The rears were not fast in comparison to the front...

1. Passenger front, very difficult to get sorted. Without dropping the sway bar, it was very very tight to get the Ironman shock in place and seated.
2. Driver Rear, top shock bolt. INSANE. Such little clearance to get the tools I needed in there. Needle nose vice grips worked until it actually started to see some torque. Then it would just spin. I ended up having to take some material off, and also modifying my crescent wrench to fit to finally get it. It's not the cleanest, and needs some touchup with a sanding pad and some paint, but it's in there. Passenger side went 100x faster, it felt like there was more clearance, but maybe I just learned from the driver side. I still had to take a bit of material off to fit my tools in there.

Other than that, it went as smoothly as I could have hoped. Ran into issues here and there, but normal stuff for the most part.

As noted on another thread, 6 or 12 ton jack stands are highly recommended in my opinion if you need full droop when raising the vehicle. To get the vehicle high enough to achieve fool droop, 3 ton jack stands are not tall enough.

Need to get an alignment and also find some more garage time this week. The garage time is the hardest thing for me to find as of late.

So far, pleased. This things is tall. Giving me 80 series feels looking at it from the rear.
E6B6ECD3-D740-46FD-B7D2-6ADF2E0F7E57.jpeg

B1021948-94AF-4FE3-B729-23296AE9E333.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom