Fridge Wiring

[C6H12O6]

I just bought an ARB 50 qt. fridge and I'm trying to figure out my wiring. I currently have an AWG 8 wire run from my starting (only) battery to the driver's side back panel and an Alpine sub amp. I want to run the fridge on the passenger side, so I'm torn on how to wire things back there.

I'm planning on adding a second battery, and was thinking about running an AWG 10 power wire down the passenger side to one of these new BlueSea panels mounted on the passenger side cargo panel. Spendy, but I'm hoping the BlueSea 12V plug will be ok. I like the breaker function so I can turn this all off when I'm not running the fridge.

Thoughts?

 

[C6H12O6]

I'm torn, because I would like to utilize the AWG 8 wire I've already run on the driver's side, but I would rather not run the fridge wiring across the width of the cargo area when I have it all loaded up with gear. I have also thought about running a BlueSea fuse block on the driver's side, powered by the 8-ga. wire, then running power and ground hard-wired to the fridge, and also to the amp, a voltmeter, and other handy electronic gadgets. I like the idea of swapping the stupid cigarette lighter plug for a more secure connector, but don't really want a maze of wire running back and forth through the cargo area. I would hide it all, but seems like it might just be easier to have dedicated power wires running down both sides of the rig.

 

[C6H12O6]

Thanks for the help. I'd like to do this right once. I don't plan on running an inverter right away, but it would be nice to be able to charge my camera battery or plug in a AA/AAA charger when we're out and about. I don't need to power anything big off the inverter, so a small one (<500W) would be fine. I'm thinking I can run the inverter and the sub amp off the 8-ga. wire at the same time on the driver's side down the road. If that works, I would probably run some 10-ga. wire down the passenger side to the voltmeter/USB/12V panel above.

Am I missing anything?

 

[MANUCHAO]

I run all my accessories from the Aux batt (except winch) . Including dedicated wires to the Ham, radio head unit, and fridge.
All fused as physically close to the battery a possible.
It's a lot of wire, but it has been trouble free for years, and thousands of miles on and off road.
I say run dedicated wires, and leave enough wire for when you get to install your second battery...
I imagine your second battery will be on the other (opposite) side of your main battery...

 

[C6H12O6]

That was the plan for when I put the second battery in. I'm just hoping I have enough slack/length in the wires to move them over to the house battery when it's all set up. I have dedicated wires for the amp and the HAM radio already run down the driver's side to the main battery. We'll see. I think they'll reach.

10-ga. wire ok for the fridge over that long of a run? Enough to run the fridge and a 500W inverter down the road? If 8-ga. wire would be better to run both, I might just split the 8-ga. on the driver's side if I ever decide to add the inverter in the future. I don't run the amp very hard.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

That was the plan for when I put the second battery in. I'm just hoping I have enough slack/length in the wires to move them over to the house battery when it's all set up. I have dedicated wires for the amp and the HAM radio already run down the driver's side to the main battery. We'll see. I think they'll reach.

10-ga. wire ok for the fridge over that long of a run? Enough to run the fridge and a 500W inverter down the road? If 8-ga. wire would be better to run both, I might just split the 8-ga. on the driver's side if I ever decide to add the inverter in the future. I don't run the amp very hard.

#10 is good for a fridge alone. A 500w inverter can draw up to ~40 amps possible higher with surges depending on what you are powering. For a 500w inverter you will want a min #6 and if you plan on using big motor loads like a blender I would go#4.

 

[C6H12O6]

Thanks, Phil.

Inverter sounds like a pain and a lot of expense for as little as I would use it. I really just want to be able to charge my camera battery on vacation, and maybe plug in a AA/AAA battery charger. I could buy a lot of batteries for what the inverter and wiring would cost.

Any thoughts on using the BlueSea 12V plug to run the fridge, versus direct wiring with a quick-disconnect?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Thanks, Phil.

Inverter sounds like a pain and a lot of expense for as little as I would use it. I really just want to be able to charge my camera battery on vacation, and maybe plug in a AA/AAA battery charger. I could buy a lot of batteries for what the inverter and wiring would cost.

Any thoughts on using the BlueSea 12V plug to run the fridge, versus direct wiring with a quick-disconnect?

I like and use Blue Sea outlets for my fridge and other stuff and never a problem.

For your needs you can get by with a much smaller inverter even a plug in style will work fine.

 

[nnnnnate]

If you aren't too hip on using the cig style plug what about splicing in anderson connectors? They are secure and easy to connect/disconnect.

For wiring you have to remember that the longer the cable run the more power loss there will be. This page has a decent chart that might help figure out what size wire to use by amps and length. For a dedicated wire only to be used with an ARB fridge I think 10 ga is plenty big enough and that chart agrees. Those 6 circuit fuse blocks are rated for 100 amps which is a ton. If you aren't going to ever use that many amps then drop your wiring to accommodate the load you expect to need. You should also consider putting a breaker or fuse between the battery and fuse block or end device right near the battery to protect your devices.

Running a fuse block is my next project and I'm picking up a 6 circuit block and breaker/fuse from a local guy who has one that he hasn't used. I intend to run all my interior add-on electronics off that fuse block so I'm going to be planning for about 50 amps total for max future use. I don't have a fridge but may in the future and from what I understand the ARBs take 15 amps. I also plan to connect my ham, cb, some leds, and some extra power outlets in the back area. The reason I'm installing the fuse block is to clean up my wires so I have no interest in running multiple power wires from the engine bay through the firewall and to each individual item. Thats how I am set up right now and is what I'm trying to clean up. The obvious objection with my plan that people will have is that comms need dedicated power to the battery due to interference but I've read contradicting things on that and will give my plan a try and test them out. If I have issues I'll address it later.

As far as running wires while planning for a future 2nd battery if you run them from the starting battery up to the firewall and across to the passenger side before passing them through to behind the glovebox you should have more than enough room to cut the wires down when that second battery goes in. I've got AHC still so I don't really have a place for a second battery in the engine compartment right now. I think thats going to go this fall though so that will open up some room and options.

 

[Ramathorn15]

I just finished my fridge install. I ran a 8awg wire from the main battery (don't want a second battery) to the same fuse panel you posted located in the side wing of my drawers.

From there, I ran a 14awg wire to a very similar bluesea panel located under the rear cup holders. I like the bluesea cig plug. It feels secure unlike a lot of others.

 

[marcus2001]

I like the setup. I have a question about the wiring at the battery. Are you directly going to the posts or somewhere from the fuseblock? Also where if you come from the engine compartment is the easiest to come thru the firewall? Pics would be helpful but anything would be useful. Thanks

 

[Patassa]

I def wouldn't try to run the sub amp and fridge off the same power wire. I ran a seperate 10 awg power wire from the battery all the way back to near the cigarette plug in the back for my National Luna 60L fridge/freezer to a new plug, no switch now but I do like that idea. Instead of dual battery, I bought a 1000 W Jackery, which gives me all the flexibility of a little generator and I just unplug the fridge at night when the truck wont' be running for hours and plug it into the jackery instead.

 

[marcus2001]

I def wouldn't try to run the sub amp and fridge off the same power wire. I ran a seperate 10 awg power wire from the battery all the way back to near the cigarette plug in the back for my National Luna 60L fridge/freezer to a new plug, no switch now but I do like that idea. Instead of dual battery, I bought a 1000 W Jackery, which gives me all the flexibility of a little generator and I just unplug the fridge at night when the truck wont' be running for hours and plug it into the jackery instead.

Where did you run your wires when you came thru the firewall?

 

[Patassa]

Where did you run your wires when you came thru the firewall?

I ran mine on the driver's side, but I did run 4 awg amp power wire on the passenger side, I can take a pic of both later when I get home.

 

[marcus2001]

Thanks I appreciate it. Btw I like the idea of using a Jackary at night. I’m looking at them now.

 

[trdcorolla]

I def wouldn't try to run the sub amp and fridge off the same power wire. I ran a seperate 10 awg power wire from the battery all the way back to near the cigarette plug in the back for my National Luna 60L fridge/freezer to a new plug, no switch now but I do like that idea. Instead of dual battery, I bought a 1000 W Jackery, which gives me all the flexibility of a little generator and I just unplug the fridge at night when the truck wont' be running for hours and plug it into the jackery instead.

Why wouldn't you run the sub amp and fridge off the same power wire? I currently have 4 awg copper wire from the battery to a 3 fused power distribution block. The first output runs 12v socket one and dual usb 2.4 charger on a 30A fuse (wired through a mini Blue Sea fuse block) and is on a ignition relay. The second runs a small class D amp on a 40A fuse. The third is nothing right now but was gonna be a future fridge. Crutchfield shows 4awg copper wire that is 16' long has a 125A max load. I was thinking I was safe with a my current load of 70A then a future 15A for a fridge which would make it a 85A load, which is way under the 125A max load Crutchfield shows. If it's really not recommended I will leave the 3rd out unused (I can use for a future use) and run a separate wire from the battery for the fridge.