86aggie
SILVER Star
My existing electric mirrors worked fine, but the spring/post connection from body to base had gotten loose and the chrome finish was pitted. I ordered two manual OEM 62 mirrors from one of the suppliers in Japan, by accident - I didn't pay close attention to the detail description. I know some of you prefer the manual and have purposely installed them in place of the electric. I wanted to stick with the original setup. Here is what I figured out:
1. Whether manual or electric, the frame that either mirror mounts to, inside the chrome housing, is the same.
2. The manual mirror backing plate and semi-ball/socket are easily removed from the housing via a single screw accessed thru the hole in the bottom of the housing. Take out the screw, and lift the 'top' edge of the mirror so it will clear the housing and the assembly will slide toward the mirror top easily.
3. The Electric mirror can be popped loose from the motor pivots and screw drives by pullling on two adjacent mirror edges at the same time.
4. Remove the motor by taking out the four screws holding it in place
5. Loosen the three screws holding the frame to the housing
6. Use a jeweler's screwdriver or a pin removal tool to take the three wires out of the white plug
7. Pull the motor and wire out of the old housing
8. Remove three screws holding frame in new manual mirror
9. Remove gasket and plastic clip from base and remove three screws holding base to housing
10. Take frame out, attach old motor with four screws and feed wire thru groove on bottom, back(actually front facing when installed) inside corner and thru base connection hole.
11. Secure frame to housing
12. Secure base to housing and gasket/clip to base
13. Reattach wires to white plug - Green, Brown, Black with 'slot' away from you, if you didn't take a picture before hand.
14. Press old mirror backing plate into motor housing. Start with one of the screw drive posts, then the second one, and the ball/rod connection last - press at center of glass. Confirm it is secured by pivoting in both directions, full stop. You should hear the 'threads' of the screw drives clicking as you pivot the glass.
14. Connect plug to male plug coming out of respective door
15. Secure base to door - I added washers to bolts, so powder coat on base was not disturbed by bolt head being tightened down.
1. Whether manual or electric, the frame that either mirror mounts to, inside the chrome housing, is the same.
2. The manual mirror backing plate and semi-ball/socket are easily removed from the housing via a single screw accessed thru the hole in the bottom of the housing. Take out the screw, and lift the 'top' edge of the mirror so it will clear the housing and the assembly will slide toward the mirror top easily.
3. The Electric mirror can be popped loose from the motor pivots and screw drives by pullling on two adjacent mirror edges at the same time.
4. Remove the motor by taking out the four screws holding it in place
5. Loosen the three screws holding the frame to the housing
6. Use a jeweler's screwdriver or a pin removal tool to take the three wires out of the white plug
7. Pull the motor and wire out of the old housing
8. Remove three screws holding frame in new manual mirror
9. Remove gasket and plastic clip from base and remove three screws holding base to housing
10. Take frame out, attach old motor with four screws and feed wire thru groove on bottom, back(actually front facing when installed) inside corner and thru base connection hole.
11. Secure frame to housing
12. Secure base to housing and gasket/clip to base
13. Reattach wires to white plug - Green, Brown, Black with 'slot' away from you, if you didn't take a picture before hand.
14. Press old mirror backing plate into motor housing. Start with one of the screw drive posts, then the second one, and the ball/rod connection last - press at center of glass. Confirm it is secured by pivoting in both directions, full stop. You should hear the 'threads' of the screw drives clicking as you pivot the glass.
14. Connect plug to male plug coming out of respective door
15. Secure base to door - I added washers to bolts, so powder coat on base was not disturbed by bolt head being tightened down.