Frame repair suggestions (1 Viewer)

[poldo]

Hi there I need some input on a frame repair.. look at the picture and tell me what you would do to get strenght and retain the geometry .. or not to retain it
I am sure you can come up with something creative
\
thanks

PS
the other side is just as bad

 

[mattg]

Probably you're best bet is to just find a another frame that's in good shape. Its hard to believe with that kind of damage that the rest of the frame would be in decent shape. FJ40 frames usually aren't to hard to find.

If you're deadset on repair, grafting on the rear section of used frame is probably the simplest option unless you've got some pretty good fab skills. Again find a used frame.

Good luck.

 

[Poser]

Welcome.



I am all about resurrecting the dead and saving everything, but man, that thing is bad. I cannot imagine that the rest of the frame is too far away from being in the same non-existent state as that rear section. I would find a decent frame, or at least one that is more salvageable than that one, and start over.


If that is not an option, I would measure everything many, many times, make a drawing of what you are working on, and start removing the junk steel. But again, I do not see a lot of decent metal in that picture.



Good luck!


-Steve

 

[poldo]

Actually after inspecting the whole frame that is really the only bad part.. the rest of the frame has lots of rust but only superficial. I have considered getting a used frame but I would like to fabricate rather than replace, it will be a good experience if I can pull it off it will boost my self esteem as a fabricator
My first choice is to cut a couple of inches from the ubolt (toward the rear) then fabricate a plate that will bolt onto the frame extending about 4-5" behind the ubolt (there are 4 existing holes)
That would be my base then I would just box it in

 

[poldo]

Actually after inspecting the whole frame that is really the only bad part.. the rest of the frame has lots of rust but only superficial. I have considered getting a used frame but I would like to fabricate rather than replace, it will be a good experience if I can pull it off it will boost my self esteem as a fabricator
My first choice is to cut a couple of inches from the ubolt (toward the rear) then fabricate a plate that will bolt onto the frame extending about 4-5" behind the ubolt (there are 4 existing holes)
That would be my base then I would just box it in

To be exact I need o remove a total of 19" from the bumper to the front which is a few in. passed the stabilizer bar, the new steel will be straight rather than having a bend down, I will have to compensate by installing 3-1/2" shackles
this is much easier than tring to replicate the bend I don't want to put too many welds in such a short piece.. any engineers out there

 

[too tall]

time for a new frame !

 

[cruiser_guy]

Personally I wouldn't try repairing that frame. It's too far gone. The last thing you need is your repair letting go when you're on the Interstate with loved ones in the truck and other folks loved ones in the other vehicles around you.

 

[haystax]

Holy s$$t - that thing is trashed!

Find a new frame, start from there and you will never regret it. What happened to the rest of the tub? What are your long term plans for that rustbucket?

Seriously, I think you are asking for a lot of work and I hope you know how to weld good enough that you don't make matters worse for yourself and others in oncoming traffic. Did your insurance and license go through with that thing in that kind of shape? Will your ins company stand behind your work?

If you want to go ahead with your plan, I would find someone who will bend some stout DOM tubing to replace the entire rear section. Match the stock bends and dimensions and fab up an entire U shaped piece you can slide into the frame and get a lot of weld area and good steel surfaces in the original frame.

Good luck man - you're braver than I am.

 

[Toyo FJ40]

I have a 74 frame that's been stripped and painted with Por 15. It's in great shape just bent at the steering box mount. Your welcome to it. I got a replacement from Cruiserparts. You could chop and weld behind the belly pan where you can reinforce it better.

 

[poldo]

Holy s$$t - that thing is trashed!

If you want to go ahead with your plan, I would find someone who will bend some stout DOM tubing to replace the entire rear section. Match the stock bends and dimensions and fab up an entire U shaped piece you can slide into the frame and get a lot of weld area and good steel surfaces in the original frame.
Good luck man - you're braver than I am.

,


That's one of my options except for the bends I prefer having a solid piece of steel cut to follow the original shape then welded to close the box or a straighter frame in the rear
(where the bed sits) kind of like a ford explorer/ranger style see jpeg of a custom FJ40 frame.
This will be a u shaped |_| insert that will fit right over the remaining frame it will be stronger than the original my issue is the geometry but I guess I can only find out after its road tested but I don't see why it would work
But I will probably try first following the actual shape and bends with solid steel (not bent tubing) to get a superthight fit

BTW welded frames are much stronger than mandrel bent ones OEM frames use bending for $$ reasons and because they work for norml driving conditions but if you want a stronger frame welded id the way to go

 

[haystax]

BTW welded frames are much stronger than mandrel bent ones OEM frames use bending for $$ reasons and because they work for norml driving conditions but if you want a stronger frame welded id the way to go

I don't really believe that is the case - ie tube frame buggies and NASCAR chassis - mandrel bent DOM = higher strength and lighter weight, no one builds anything out of cut and welded rectangular tubing, that s*** is heavy and every weld is a potential stress and break point. Vertical welds in a frame will crack almost immediately - i've seen it many times. Not saying it prolly won't work, I just wouldn't want to do it -

Sounds to me like you made up your mind before you even posted this -

Hope it works for you -

 

[poldo]

I don't really believe that is the case - ie tube frame buggies and NASCAR chassis - mandrel bent DOM = higher strength and lighter weight, no one builds anything out of cut and welded rectangular tubing, that s*** is heavy and every weld is a potential stress and break point. Vertical welds in a frame will crack almost immediately - i've seen it many times. Not saying it prolly won't work, I just wouldn't want to do it -

Sounds to me like you made up your mind before you even posted this -

Hope it works for you -

A roll cage is not a chassis, aircraft frames must be TIG welded there are mandrel bents but joints must be welded, besides I wasn't talking about vertical welds all the welds in my project are horizontal. I am aware of the risks of vertical welds on a stock car frame .. heck not the best grade steel.

When welding vertically on a frame The cracks occur not on the weld itself but around it , the material surrounding the weld is put under stress during the welding process (excessive heat)

please read up
http://www.matkinsextreme.com/faq.htm

I did make up my mind if you read the original post I was looking for any creative ideas on how to do it but I didn't get any so far ..
it wouldn't be a rebuilt if all I did was assembling parts especially when it is possible to repair and reinforce the existing parts.....
this jpeg is of a modified Jeep (rockcrawler)