Frame bent or no big deal. (1 Viewer)

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2001LC

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Looking at 2000 LX with high millage. Noted a few areas of concern that may just need adjusting or could be clues to something very bad. Trying to understand what caused camber to become so negative. The three items below may be clues of hard impact from aggressive wheeling OR Unrelated and possible just hit a very bad pot-hole on PS front wheel. Saw sign that at least one wheel is bent on inner side of rim.
What other clues should I look for?
What parts may I need?
Could frame be bent, how to tell?
  • PS wheel had a great deal of negative camber (bottom of wheel out, riding on inside of tire). It's apparently burning through front tires. DS has some positive camber, but not as noticeable. Front tires appear as if they've been switched recently, as wear pattern is wrong.
  • PS leading edge of running board, bent up near front end.
  • PS front lower half main body of door out ~1/8" (not closing tightly) from alignment with back door. Upper half of front door (window frame center post) flush with back door.
Sorry picture aren't very good.
2000 LX470 193k 068.JPG
2000 LX470 193k 017.JPG
2000 LX470 193k 080.JPG

This last picture, is of a piece of cardboard across front to back door seam. Front door out about 1/8 inch from being flush with back door.
 
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I bought a rig that had been in a "minor" accident as listed on the carfax, the impact was on the driver side rear door near the rear axle. The fix was immaculate, no door replacement they replaced the outer skin of the rear driver side door and painted the whole side of the truck. I inspected everything very carefully and everything else was original with no bondo (used magnetic pen) I really did not mind this fix even though I'm pretty selective of the condition of cars I purchase. Its an 01 with 64k miles at the time.

About a month after I purchased I noticed heavy tire wear and negative camber on the rear driver side wheel, you can find the thread on my profile. I did some measurements and I found out the whole axle was shifted almost an inch from its original placement, upon closer look I also found the panhard was bent significantly and later got the ABS VC lights and noted the inner axle was out of alignment enough to chew the ABS sensor.

So I came to the conclusion that the brute impact of the accident was taken by the rear axle and it went unnoticed. There was probably very little damage to the door but the inner axle and the panhard were bent and the truck drove fine so it was not fixed.

I did not want to mess with pressing a new inner axle and the precision work around all of that so I purchased a locked axle off a 99 and dropped right in with a new panhard as well. Everything lines up perfectly now.... the frame was always in-spec so it was jut the inner axle and the panhard. I would suggest start taking measurements from the frame out and don't rule out that that tire may of been installed on a different side of the truck and was rotated to where it is now in other words the damage may not be where the tire is now. Just make measurements on all sides. The tire I had uneven wear on was rotated to the front.
 
So, to summarize:

Large negative camber on PS front
Some positive camber on DS front
Burning through front tires
High miles
PS running board bent in front
PS front door not closing tightly from misalignment
At least one wheel is bent on the inner side

What other red flags do you need to convince you to look elsewhere? :flush:

Maybe I'm being too harsh; perhaps the vehicle is otherwise perfect and practically free, but all those are signs of a big hit(s) that may need expensive and extensive work to correct.

What to the vehicle history reports (Carfax and Autocheck) show?
 
I bought a rig that had been in a "minor" accident as listed on the carfax, the impact was on the driver side rear door near the rear axle. The fix was immaculate, no door replacement they replaced the outer skin of the rear driver side door and painted the whole side of the truck. I inspected everything very carefully and everything else was original with no bondo (used magnetic pen) I really did not mind this fix even though I'm pretty selective of the condition of cars I purchase. Its an 01 with 64k miles at the time.

About a month after I purchased I noticed heavy tire wear and negative camber on the rear driver side wheel, you can find the thread on my profile. I did some measurements and I found out the whole axle was shifted almost an inch from its original placement, upon closer look I also found the panhard was bent significantly and later got the ABS VC lights and noted the inner axle was out of alignment enough to chew the ABS sensor.

So I came to the conclusion that the brute impact of the accident was taken by the rear axle and it went unnoticed. There was probably very little damage to the door but the inner axle and the panhard were bent and the truck drove fine so it was not fixed.

I did not want to mess with pressing a new inner axle and the precision work around all of that so I purchased a locked axle off a 99 and dropped right in with a new panhard as well. Everything lines up perfectly now.... the frame was always in-spec so it was jut the inner axle and the panhard. I would suggest start taking measurements from the frame out and don't rule out that that tire may of been installed on a different side of the truck and was rotated to where it is now in other words the damage may not be where the tire is now. Just make measurements on all sides. The tire I had uneven wear on was rotated to the front.
Good points.

I shouldn't just focus on the DS. As I could not see what had camber out so much. I should look at wheels while rolling, also take some measurements. It's also possible that wheels came off something else. As wheel are trashed, much more so than underside of vehicle.
So, to summarize:

Large negative camber on PS front
Some positive camber on DS front
Burning through front tires
High miles
PS running board bent in front
PS front door not closing tightly from misalignment
At least one wheel is bent on the inner side

What other red flags do you need to convince you to look elsewhere? :flush:

Maybe I'm being too harsh; perhaps the vehicle is otherwise perfect and practically free, but all those are signs of a big hit(s) that may need expensive and extensive work to correct.

What to the vehicle history reports (Carfax and Autocheck) show?
Flags for sure, others I didn't even mention shops would probable estimate ~$3k plus for repairs on.

But if frame is intact, then it's just parts. So was trying to get idea of what parts I may need, if frame ok. To get and idea of total $$ it may take to restore. Make offer based on cost and if excepted, then spend $ to have checkout by shop.
Walk. Not worth it.
Your both right, it's a no go if two things don't check out:
  1. If parts & labor cost to restore, plus purchase price exceed book I walk.
  2. If frame bent I walk.
Labor cost being what a shop would charge, although I'll do most of the work myself. Sweat equity as they call it, for a spring project. The door adjustment, running board and camber may be unrelated, but beyond my scope of abilities to field inspect. The heavy wheelers on mud have no doubt seen frame get bent, and the kind of force it takes cause. That just beyond my experience level.
 
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Your both right, it's a no go if two things don't check out:
  1. If parts & labor cost to restore, plus purchase price exceed book I walk.
  2. If frame bent I walk.
Labor cost being what a shop would charge, although I'll do most of the work myself. Sweat equity as they call it, for a spring project. The door adjustment, running board and camber may be unrelated, but beyond my scope of abilities to field inspect. The heavy wheels on mud have no doubt seen frame get bent, and the kind of force it takes cause. That just beyond my experience level.

That is exactly what I would have done. This could be a great deal especially if you do most of the work. Also, imho, I would think that if the vehicle was wheeled quite a bit, you would see scars/scratches/dent under the car. If looks pretty pristine, it probably never leave the pavement.

Good luck, and let us know how you decide!
 
Not worth it. Sure they aren't easy to find, but they aren't unicorns. Plus, they're fairly expensive to fix. If it was me, I'd wait until I found one that is straight and solid.
 
That is exactly what I would have done. This could be a great deal especially if you do most of the work. Also, imho, I would think that if the vehicle was wheeled quite a bit, you would see scars/scratches/dent under the car. If looks pretty pristine, it probably never leave the pavement.

Good luck, and let us know how you decide!
Made offer based on estimated work needed, subject to final inspection. Dealer thinks he can do better. I walked.

Thanks guys.
 
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