FR & RR 80 locker selector into 100

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PT297-35070-AS (Auxilliary switch )


I want to get the one that has the indicator light on it, looks like this one in the lower left. Light comes on when the button is depressed. Reason being that these switches are somewhat hard to tell when they are on or not just by looking at them or feeling them. At least they were when i had them in my FJ.

 
Layonnn said:
I want to get the one that has the indicator light on it, looks like this one in the lower left. Light comes on when the button is depressed. Reason being that these switches are somewhat hard to tell when they are on or not just by looking at them or feeling them. At least they were when i had them in my FJ. If someone wanted to control them independently but still have the OEM look, you could get the RR diff lock switch for the FJ Cruiser. You can black out part of the R to make it look like an F for a FR diff locker switch as well.

Yea I like those switches better than the switch I used for my air compressor
 
Layonnn said:
Dobie, do you remember if you used a FJ Cruiser fog light switch? Onur said there is no fog light switch OEM that fits on the left of the 100, IIRC.

I'll see if I can find the part number. I believe is was for an older Tacoma. I ordered it from Christo so he may know.
 
Alrighty, all i have left to do on the install is install the switches.
I have an OEM fog switch with an indicator light, however, i am thinking of using the ARB compressor switch instead for a few reasons.
1. If i ever need to have someone else turn on the compressor to air up something, i won't have to describe to them what to turn on.
2. Less wiring headache
3. I kinda like the compressor switch.
4. I don't like the simple, ugly Rigid Industries light switch that i have.

So, i just need to wire up the 80 series FR RR switch to the ARB harness. However, there are 10 wires total for the 2 locker switches. The back of the OEM switch has three plugs. Anyone know what is supposed to go to what?
If someone can figure this out based on a wiring diagram i can take a picture of the one ARB includes.
 
I am running it the way you described... separate compressor switch, F/R lockers on FZJ80 dial. Do verify the the correct locker activates at the ARB solenoid or even better, at the wheels. This was 5 years ago, so I'm not sure if the harness has changed any since then.

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I have that same set up. With the 80 switch you have to lock the rear first then move to the front. My compressor is wired to the knob, turn the lockers on and the pump starts. RSCA has nothing to do with the lockers.


My setup is the same, flipping it to the rear locker turns the compressor on. But I can actually lock just the front, since my wiring is still such that I need the CDL engaged to lock the back, I can technically lock the front while open center, in high range. Not that I ever would though.. :popcorn:
 
Thanks Hoser. Do you know which wires of the 10 need to either be connected, terminated, etc?

Ill try and upload a pic of the wiring diagram
 
In the above pic, the green wire goes to the rear locker and the yellow wire goes to the front locker (or vice versa). The red wire goes to either the compressor switch (pictured on the right) or the ignition switch. The rest of the wires that you can't see aren't used and tucked back into panel.
 
Looking at the compressor install guide, it looks like the Yellow wire should go to switch one, which should be the rear locker. The green wire is switch 2, or front locker. Front locker can only be activated if the rear is locked first, using ARBs wiring setup.
 
here is a way to wire a switch with a relay using wiring meant for the AHC. this way you don't have to connect anything to the battery or run any wires through the firewall. you will end up with a switched 50amp circuit in that extra space under the hood. you can use this for a compressor, aux lighting, etc...this mod will allow the switch to work with the ignition on. if you want the switch to work regardless of the key replace the pink/black wire with a constant 12v source(doesn't need to be high current).

the first thing you need to do is find the gray plug above the brake pedal that looks like this.

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next unplug the plug and pull it down to the left of the brake pedal brace

pic2unplugged.webp


you will cut 2 wires the first is green/yellow stripe next to red/black and red/yellow. the second is pink/black on the other side next to red/white. make sure you get the correct ones. there are more with these colors.

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next you will splice into these wires tape up the plug, plug it back in to the gray plug and run the new wires up to the switch location.
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under the hood you will see a spot where the AHC relay would go

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you will need to buy a toyota relay and you want the brown kind part #90987-02006 around $8 on ebay you just have to modify it a little to fit in the spot by breaking off the white pin on the underside of the relay. yes it's ok. this is the kind of relay you need for this application.

pic6breakoffpin.webp

now all you have to do is install the relay in the AHC spot and then install the switch of your choice in the dash that shorts the 2 wires you put there which in turn activates the relay for a 50amp switched circuit (which also has a ground on this plug) under the hood near the power steer tank. blue/black is 12v and white/black is ground. the fuse is found at the smaller fuse box on the right listed as AHC.

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sorry total hijack there. i just realized the title is about locker switches. just saw those compressor pics and got sidetracked.i just like everything to look stock also. i figure if youre gonna use stock switches might as well use stock wiring if its adequate. i made the switch to run only when the ignition is on because if you use a compressor you want the engine running for maximum performance.
 
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I just added the 80 series locker switch and FJ Cruiser fog lamp switch to trigger the compressor. I'm also using the instrument cluster lamp to indicate activation.

IMG_3167.webp

Check out the link in my signature if you want to see the write ups and photos.

I'm also putting together a database of compatible switches.
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Nice work. Cool having the indicator on the dash.

Thanks. I'm through parts one and two of the write up (which are posted). Part three covers the air compressor itself and it's connections to electrical and lockers. Part four will cover disabling ATRAC so you can have all modes at your command.
 
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