Found a used 2.2kW starter

[Kernal]

Just got this used 1993 2.2kW starter; some photos showing the ID plate and torn wire insulation/boot. Any thoughts?

 

[AustinCruiser]

Good find! That's the cold weather starter (IIRC). Most of our Cruisers have the 2.0 kw version.

 

[jlg32281]

clean it and wrap it with a bunch of electrical tape.

 

[Kernal]

Took it to a couple of auto parts stores to check the starter; it passed all tests and FWIW sounded fine when it spun up. Here are the numbers from four tests on two different testing machines:

Current (Amps): 93.81, 92.80, 94.0, 94.0
Voltage (Actual): 12.40, 12.30, 12.45, 12.36
Chatter time: 0, 0 ,0, 0

I noticed that the testing machine results showed different low and high limits for the current (15-175A) and voltage (7-19V), so maybe they pulled up stats for different kW starters. Anyone know how much current a new starter draws?

Will try to find a replacement boot or wire for the torn insulation.

 

[94SRUNNER]

I would say Kernal your best bet at finding a replacement is talking to CDan or Beno and finding out if that part is serviceable.

Otherwise find someone who has a bad or broken 2.2kW started and see if you can get it off their hands and do some part swapping.

My other thought would be to see if that cable is interchangeable with say a 2.0kW starter. My guess is no, but its worth a look see.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Kernal]

Thanks, will check around to see what my options are.

I've done some more reading; the 96 FSM has No-load bench test specs for current (Amp) draw:
for the 1.4kW starter: good is less than 90A at 11.5V
for the 2.0kW starter: good is less than 100A at 11.5V

This 2.2kW starter drew about 94 Amps on the No-Load test (but at 12.4V).

Anyone got a 93 FSM who can look up the No-Load performance test specs for the 2.2kW starter?

Found a couple of interesting links:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h7.pdf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABdgkHI8qSs

 

[The Moe]

Kernal,

Great find buddy... Looks good... Like other have suggested, get the consumables for Dan or Beno and just refurbish the whole thing...

p.s. If you were going to take the whole thing apart, there is something you may want to consider.

The philip screws that hold the gears module cover ( seeing on the last pic ) are usually very tight and perhaps the heads of them are soft now. I messed up one while trying to take it off. You might want to consider replacing with hex heads or similar upon repack. Franckly I haven't but I wish I have

Looks promising

 

[Kernal]

Not sure if I'll just replace contacts or open it all the way up. I looked at all the screws closely and they don't look like they've ever been touched, so probably all original.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Kernal, have you spoken with CDan or Beno on the matter?

They would be able to give some good insite on this.

 

[Kernal]

Yes, they have the parts to rebuild it. I also found an OE Denso authorized remanufacturer who could rebuild it for $189 using Denso parts (not sure if they would be the same as Toyota Denso parts??), but if they just replace the basic parts and paint it, not worth it. On the other hand if they do a complete factory rebuild with new brushes, clutch, pinion, coat the windings, bead blast the case and Cad plate it as new OEM, then maybe worth the money. I'm waiting back for their reply.

On the testing machines last night it spun smooth, no odd noises, so I could probably get away with just new contacts. Only thing that I would need to fix for sure is the bad insulation on the ground wire.

Edit: here's the response I got from the rebuilder: no cad plating.

"We typically paint our rebuilds with a “Cast Iron Gray” paint that does a real nice job—the plastic parts are replaced—any part that is out of spec is replaced—shipping is in addition to quoted price "

 

[94SRUNNER]

Very cool. Thanks for keeping us posted. I look forward to the outcome.

Did you check with any local starter shops to see what they had to say about rebuild, parts, etc...

 

[Kernal]

I haven't yet for this, but my guess is they would not use OE quality parts or methods.

 

[jlbuk]

surely easier to strip and and have a look before paying for expensive refurbs ? The contacts often wear, cheap to replace, cover that torn wire insulation with that thick plastic spiral "wrap around" type insulation (the wire itself looks fine, right ?) and stick it in the car - it's a 10 minute installation, best way to test it IHMO...

I swapped out my 2k in my UK car for the 1.4 bolted in the JDM before I shipped the (UK) car to Z (never gets below 10 degrees there (50 F ?). 2k seems std for UK, who gets the 2.2s ? Siberia ?

 

[DARKNESS]

Thanks, will check around to see what my options are.

I've done some more reading; the 96 FSM has No-load bench test specs for current (Amp) draw:
for the 1.4kW starter: good is less than 90A at 11.5V
for the 2.0kW starter: good is less than 100A at 11.5V

This 2.2kW starter drew about 94 Amps on the No-Load test (but at 12.4V).

Anyone got a 93 FSM who can look up the No-Load performance test specs for the 2.2kW starter?

for the 2.2kw starter: good is less than 120A at 11.5V