Grille is cool! Some of those tend to look tacky but good choice.
For those of you on 34's and up
- Thread starter Tex68w
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Grille is cool! Some of those tend to look tacky but good choice.
I'm currently stuck in "analysis paralysis" with fine tuning the fitment of my 34" KO2 (285/75/17 ICON w/ +25 offset). The KDSS rub is bugging me. I don't really like the KDSS relo solution. My current alignment is great and achieves good BM and rocker/slider clearance. I did trim the plastic of the rockers some to make it better. Adding a spacer (essentially zero offset) would very likely fix my KDSS issue but I think it will foul up the clearance I have at the BM/Rocker. I am seriously considering grinding my KDSS arm to clear the tire and welding on the back side to keep its thickness, but that could be a $700 waste if it doesn't work or worse, if the arm were to fail while driving.
My alignment # are:
Seems like before I get out the grinder or try spacers, I should try again with alignment to back off the KDSS and then see how bad or close it gets at the BM/rocker. Advice please.
- Thread starter
- #23
I'm currently stuck in "analysis paralysis" with fine tuning the fitment of my 34" KO2 (285/75/17 ICON w/ +25 offset). The KDSS rub is bugging me. I don't really like the KDSS relo solution. My current alignment is great and achieves good BM and rocker/slider clearance. I did trim the plastic of the rockers some to make it better. Adding a spacer (essentially zero offset) would very likely fix my KDSS issue but I think it will foul up the clearance I have at the BM/Rocker. I am seriously considering grinding my KDSS arm to clear the tire and welding on the back side to keep its thickness, but that could be a $700 waste if it doesn't work or worse, if the arm were to fail while driving.
My alignment # are:
Seems like before I get out the grinder or try spacers, I should try again with alignment to back off the KDSS and then see how bad or close it gets at the BM/rocker. Advice please.
So mine touches just ever so slightly on the body mount with the outer edges of the sidewall lugs. It’s by no means aggressive rubbing but it’s enough to bug me and I’d like more clearance when the tires are caked in mud and when fully stuffed and turning. I am having the body mount chop done in a few weeks and it should allow for more than enough room for 34’s and even 35’s with the 0mm offset wheels.
My alignment is great as well and I’d rather not mess with it by pushing the axles forward for clearance which would likely put me into the KDSS arm. I have no issues with a BMC as I had them done on all three 5th Gens that we owned and the previous GX as well. Body mount rubbing is IMHO preferable to KDSS interference and a much less invasive fix. I am no fan of the relocate option and its drawbacks.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I'm currently stuck in "analysis paralysis" with fine tuning the fitment of my 34" KO2 (285/75/17 ICON w/ +25 offset). The KDSS rub is bugging me. I don't really like the KDSS relo solution. My current alignment is great and achieves good BM and rocker/slider clearance. I did trim the plastic of the rockers some to make it better. Adding a spacer (essentially zero offset) would very likely fix my KDSS issue but I think it will foul up the clearance I have at the BM/Rocker. I am seriously considering grinding my KDSS arm to clear the tire and welding on the back side to keep its thickness, but that could be a $700 waste if it doesn't work or worse, if the arm were to fail while driving.
My alignment # are:
Seems like before I get out the grinder or try spacers, I should try again with alignment to back off the KDSS and then see how bad or close it gets at the BM/rocker. Advice please.
You can clearance a lot of plastic from the rocker/fender and cut a decent amount of metal off the body mount. That is FAR easier and much safer than grinding away a torque lever of the KDSS bar.
Sitting on 35's, did the BMC and Slee KDSS relokit(already had it laying around), setup works perfectly!
Did you regear by chance?
35x11.5 Falken Wildpeak RT01. Supposedly 34.8” per Falken. No BMC. +25 offset. KDSS relo bracket. Typical plastic trimming and massaging and mud flap removal. +3.5 caster in the alignment. No rubbing.
Yes!Sounds like you have room for 37s!
With a BMC and a bit more kdss relo I think I could fit 37x11.5 around the suspension and frame if such a beast exists. Pretty sure 37x12.5 will scrub the fenders with giving up a lot of up travel as 34s were tight already when crossed up.
In all cases suspect they’d contact the fenders though so I’d either need to extend the bumps a bunch or cut into the fenders. And that’s really what’s stopped me… I’d be ok rolling the fenders a bit but from what I’ve seen from Stellarbuilt you really have to cut a lot more than I’m willing right now. Maybe in another 150k miles…
TLC2013
SILVER Star
How have the front and rear fender clearance been at full stuff with the 35x11.5r17 's? Aweosme size, have you been crossed/twisted up to the bump stops? I have been wondering if you can go full compressed without hitting metal/fenders with a 25-35mm offset.
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has the KDSS relocation kit damaged the bushings that you have seen?
Asking since you fully articulate the system.... I am really interested in how it preforms with the body clearances and kdss at full tuck and droop.
for me next thing will be a lift so I can fit at least 34's.. but a 35/12.5 would be ideal.. I am on RW's with 1.5" spidertrax, so an effective + 12 offset
BMC is straightforward.. and preferable if I can maintain factory alignment)
I haven’t been fully crossed up on a trail yet with them, but I seemed to have enough clearance on 34s so I expect it’ll be fine
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Good to know. So far i have also been able to clear 34.0" with 25mm and 35mm wheel offsets at full or near full compression. Keep us posted with any developments on your 35s. I would like to hear how they do at their extremes.
I have all the parts on hand to install the kdss relocation bracket and get the end links outside the LCA cradles. Appreciate your docs on the kdss relocation setup. Nicely done. Next project is regear and then possibly 35's, if you can't tell yet my build is a solid 2 years behind yours, and following directly in your foot steps
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Trust me, cutting the pinch weld was a lot more painful than the fenders!
I mounted my sway bar end links to the outside of the cradle and put a 1.5” aluminum spacer inside the cradle. They’re still tweaked a bit but not as bad as they would be inside the cradle
The best solution for the links is to do this but make your own KDSS relo brackets from some aluminum bar stock. If you do that you can push the sway bar another 1/2” forward giving even more clearance but also aligning the end links pretty much vertical.
FWIW I went with 35x11.5 because I knew 11.5 would tuck into the fender on +25 offset. I think 35x12.5 on +12 offset will contact your fender and require you to extend your bump stops
Happy to help with build ideasGood to know. So far i have also been able to clear 34.0" with 25mm and 35mm wheel offsets at full or near full compression. Keep us posted with any developments on your 35s. I would like to hear how they do at their extremes.
I have all the parts on hand to install the kdss relocation bracket and get the end links outside the LCA cradles. Appreciate your docs on the kdss relocation setup. Nicely done. Next project is regear and then possibly 35's, if you can't tell yet my build is a solid 2 years behind yours, and following directly in your foot steps
I had the same experience on 34s which is why I felt comfortable going to 35x11.5 as it’s only 1/2” taller at the fender. But another 1/2” wider with a 12.5 tire concerned me.
FWIW I’ve definitely hit the durobumps going over speed bumps (contact confirmed on the rubber) and I don’t contact the fenders or liner or anything when going straight, so it’s strictly a crossed-up-and-turning question. But like I said I was fully crossed up on a berm on a trail probably leaning 25 degrees, passenger tire was hard right and full compression while the drivers rear was full extension and I still had “2 fingers” of clearance at the front fender on 34s.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Right on, good info. Similar experience with the duro bumps on my set up. Plenty of witness marks from contacting them over large bumps and drops. If i remember correctly the standard Durobumps don't limit up travel and are progressive to engage earlier and soften the contact. They have been a game changer for me. I guess if limiting up travel is needed with 35's a short spacer or washer could be added between the Duro bump and frame or LCA.Happy to help with build ideas
I had the same experience on 34s which is why I felt comfortable going to 35x11.5 as it’s only 1/2” taller at the fender. But another 1/2” wider with a 12.5 tire concerned me.
FWIW I’ve definitely hit the durobumps going over speed bumps (contact confirmed on the rubber) and I don’t contact the fenders or liner or anything when going straight, so it’s strictly a crossed-up-and-turning question. But like I said I was fully crossed up on a berm on a trail probably leaning 25 degrees, passenger tire was hard right and full compression while the drivers rear was full extension and I still had “2 fingers” of clearance at the front fender on 34s.
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TLC2013
SILVER Star
This one has got my attention at 35x11.5r17. I am not too fond of seeing a shortish 15/32" tread depth though.
I’m currently running this exact one. Been happy so far.
35x12.5x17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss, +25mm offset wheels, 2010 LX570. No BMC and no rub in the body mount area. Some rub on upper driver wheel well under full compression particularly at left steering angle. I haven't changed the bump stops to limit up-travel. The body mount clears under all circumstances.