Flat Towing? (1 Viewer)

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How would you get an 80 down to 5000 pounds-chop the back off?

Looking back through the thread I noticed this, sorry I didn't catch it earlier. An 80, mildly outfitted, weighs in at about 5,000 pounds, give or take a few hundred (more likely give :D). I believe Tools R Us told me he regularly weighs his (he's a bit concerned about his weight, I gather) at around there. An easy way to find out how much they weigh from the factory would be to take the GVWR (somewhere around 6200 pounds IIRC) and subtract the maximum load (1400 pounds, I believe). That gets you to about 4800 pounds, then throw on your mods and whatever you carry.

It's a common misconception that 80's weigh over 6K pounds empty. Not that 5K is anything to laugh at.

-Spike
 
I can't tell what the shift forks do there. I do know that when I attempted to tow my '94 home on a dolly with the t-case in neutral it got about 100 yards before the VC locked up enough to stop the tow vehicle. Had to remove the drive shaft.

-Spike

I believe you....that's why I flat tow:)
 
I do know that when I attempted to tow my '94 home on a dolly with the t-case in neutral it got about 100 yards before the VC locked up enough to stop the tow vehicle. Had to remove the drive shaft.

-Spike


FSM (and probably the owners manual) says that's the only way NOT to tow a 91 80 (no VC).
 
91 FSM states: If flat towing:
Parking Brake: released
Transmission shift lever postion: "N" Range
Transfer shift Lever Position: "N" Position
Center Dif Switch: "Off"

So FSM says it can be done... 1991 FSM, page IN-13
 
91 FSM states: If flat towing:
Parking Brake: released
Transmission shift lever postion: "N" Range
Transfer shift Lever Position: "N" Position
Center Dif Switch: "Off"

So FSM says it can be done... 1991 FSM, page IN-13


Hum, interesting in deed.


I did read somewhere that a fully built 80 on 35's and all the normal offroad gear weighed around 6500 pounds. My 4Runner weighs 4900 pounds at the Cat scales ready to wheel.

In the end, a fully built and I do mean built 80 would be cheaper than putting a solid axle under my 4Runner. It would probably be 40% to 50% less out of my pocket to buy and build an 80 than to SAS my 4Runner. Pro's and con's to both though.




If I were to install manual hubs front and rear on an 80-wouldn't that mean that the only thing turning when flat toing is the wheels? Really the rear is already full floater, so wouldn't just installing manual hubs on the front mean that only the wheels would be turning while flat towing?
 
91 FSM states: If flat towing:
Parking Brake: released
Transmission shift lever postion: "N" Range
Transfer shift Lever Position: "N" Position
Center Dif Switch: "Off"

So FSM says it can be done... 1991 FSM, page IN-13

Eric, I read in Slee's newbie guide that the 91-92's do not have the viscous coupler. I assume that is why your manual reads different from the FZJ's?
 
Eric, I read in Slee's newbie guide that the 91-92's do not have the viscous coupler. I assume that is why your manual reads different from the FZJ's?

I'm sure the 93's and later read the same actually, that's why when lifting just one axle when towing will roast the VC...
 
If I were to install manual hubs front and rear on an 80-wouldn't that mean that the only thing turning when flat toing is the wheels? Really the rear is already full floater, so wouldn't just installing manual hubs on the front mean that only the wheels would be turning while flat towing?

Yep, with manual hubs at all 4 corners, the only thing moving would be the wheels. Seems you would need custom rear axle shafts to do it. Don't know how the strength would be.

-Spike
 
Just thought I would update this thread. I have finally taken a 100 series transfer case apart to look into the oiling and flat towing issues. 80 should be the same. There is a number of holes on the output shaft that gets oil from the oil pump. These are located where there are bearings (like an rod bearing, not tapered or roller) that ride on the shaft. So I concluded that it would not be a good idea to flat tow the truck without addressing the oiling.


Read the other thread -
This oiling issue could be the difference between wheeling it or working on it.
 
Au contraire, as previously reported....I started out with short trips behind the dually, stopping frequently to check everything and found no problems. I've since made several trips including one to North Dakota and back without incident.

To set it up, I bought an ARB front bumper and installed Blue Ox universal brackets that I strengthened and used large backing plates. The front and rear diffs got 75-90 synthetic while the center diff got 90-140 synthetic. Even during the Florida summer, the center diff does not get too warm to keep my hand on the output bearings after a couple hundred miles.

Wiring the factory lights to work from the motorhome/dually requires diodes and time....have the diodes but not the time so I've been using those magnetic jobs. BTW, the motorhome weighs 38,000 lbs and does not know the 80 is back there until I apply the brakes so I will be investing in an aux braking system before the next trip.

I've since had two Toyota master mechanics tell me there is no problem doing flat towing my 96. Other models may be different, YMMV

Tuner - Just as an update, have you found any issues with flat towing your 80? My father in law is looking at purchasing an 80 which he will need to pull behind his motorhome and we are looking for real world experience.

Thanks much.:popcorn:
 
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Tuner - Just as an update, have you found any issues with flat towing your 80? My father in law is looking at purchasing an 80 which he will need to pull behind his motorhome and we are looking for real world experience.

Thanks much.:popcorn:

YEAH! update needed... i have manual hubs up front. And really do not want to lift the rear DS... I'd rather leave it in N-N with the key on for 100 miles...
 
I think I posted this up to another thread on flat towing. If I were to do it, I would give this alternative serious consideration:
1991 - 1997 Toyota Landcruiser | Remco Towing

I do not have one - but it looks like a cool solution to the problem. Expensive, but cheaper than a full-on trailer.
 
I think I posted this up to another thread on flat towing. If I were to do it, I would give this alternative serious consideration:
1991 - 1997 Toyota Landcruiser | Remco Towing

I do not have one - but it looks like a cool solution to the problem. Expensive, but cheaper than a full-on trailer.

That is real cool!
For my 80's application though, I'd kill that device. Yeah, yeah, i realize it's not advisable to flat-tow a rock crawler. But I'm taking all the necessary precautions and have been doing everything by the safety book with regard to flat towing... and.... I don't have the monies for a trailer yet.... YET.

For those who say flat-towing is not legit... need to go to an SEC football tailgate and see just how many RV's tow hundreds of cars to and from the college town... if you're rich enough to own a tour bus.... you're rich enough to tow large SUV's.... saw a hunnerd being flat-towed out of Auburn last weekend. Wish I could've snapped a shot quick enough. Large heeps even get towed behind these motorhomes... have a friend who flat tows his wheeler on 37's... no issues.
 
If I read that page right, that driveshaft coupling is ~$1200

You can buy a new car hauler trailer for around $1000 in GA.


I've been flat towing my 40 on 31s, 38's, 37's for thousands of miles with my 80 series and never unbolt the driveshaft. T-case goes in neutral.


Eric- big difference in flat towing behind an RV and "regular" tow vehicle. Weight and stability of the tow vehicle plays a HUGE role in safety when flat towing, more than when using a trailer.


Still flat towing for the last 8 years, and hating every minute of it...
 
i'm a little late on this, but everyone keeps hitting on oiling issues in the t-case if it's in neutral, ect. AGAIN like woody posted, why not take the 6 bolts and pull the driveshafts??!! Nothing but the axles are spinning and that can't be considered wear as it's no different then driving. I don't understand the problem?
 
Still flat towing for the last 8 years, and hating every minute of it...

Flat Tow to Morris Mtn this weekend! JEEBUS!


i'm a little late on this, but everyone keeps hitting on oiling issues in the t-case if it's in neutral, ect. AGAIN like woody posted, why not take the 6 bolts and pull the driveshafts??!! Nothing but the axles are spinning and that can't be considered wear as it's no different then driving. I don't understand the problem?

No problem... as those who've ACTUALLY DONE IT, it appears the t-case barely even gets warm by leaving it in neutral.... PLUS in my case, I have front manny hub
 
Eric, i understand and I HAVE NOT ACTUALLY FLAT TOWED MY 80. The point is that why even risk an oiling issue? Why risk any wear on the T-case? Pull the D-shafts and be 100% sure no damage is done. That's all i'm saying.
 
I've towed a 92 (no vc) for about 2,000 miles now with transfer case in neutral and trans in parkl. Yea that's right -I said park.
Transfer case barely gets warm... NO PROBLEMS.
 
I know the manual, every mechanic I have met, Mr. Slee (bow), Texican (bow again), and the rest of the very knowledgeable folks on here say not to flat tow an 80. My 1993 is old enough, and I was broke enough, that I thought I would try it, and if it tore up, then I would get something else.

I tow with a 400 HP diesel pusher motorhome, weighs maybe 37,000 pounds. The 80 has a supplimental towing brake system. My tow bar attaches to the tow hooks, no $300 baseplate needed. Transmission in Park, transfer case in Neutral. Key turned on, then off to unlock the steering wheel lock.

I checked while towing across the desert, and the transfer case is not even warm, usually about 10 degrees over ambient. No axle diffrential rotation, so the VC is not being exercised.

I have flat towed from DFW to Sherman, TX, to Fort Worth, to Amarillo, to Phoenix, to California border, to Phoenix, to Amarillo, to Eugene, Oregon, to Phoenix, to DFW to Amarillo.

I have had no issues, and the old dear is still chugging along, shifting just fine. The motorhome does not even know it is back there.

With all the advise to not flat tow, I cannot suggest it. But, it works for me. When I hit the lottery, and Ben and Christo get the 80 for a spa day (month), I will have the 12 volt powered oiler installed.

For lights I use magnet trailer lights on the roof. In Arizona the cross winds WILL blow them off, so have some duct tape handy.

Hey, I did not say it was a class act, just that it works for me.
 

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