Flaring brake lines

[green40]

So what are the tricks to doing this?
I haven't had any luck yet. I've followed the directions
but things just do not seem to come out right.

 

[JJS]

You need a good quality flaring kit. The grip that the clamp jaws have on the line is the key to getting a good flare. I rented a POS kit from Autozone one time, and was having the exact same problem.

 

[landtank]

you need to be double flaring the tubing. A single flaring tool is useless.

I'm leaving for NC at noon and if you want to borrow my tool send a PM and I'll get it in the mail before I leave.

 

[vtcruiser60]

I bought my unit from home depot, around $40 if I recall. It works fine....but practicing on the old lines makes things go much easier.

I must say though...the convenience of the bendable stuff from Autozone or napa...sure makes flaring seem like a chore. it is really cheap too.

 

[green40]

I bought my unit from home depot, around $40 if I recall. It works fine....but practicing on the old lines makes things go much easier.

I must say though...the convenience of the bendable stuff from Autozone or napa...sure makes flaring seem like a chore. it is really cheap too.[/QUOTE

I'm adapting steel lines to a rear disc conversion on my 40. So I need a metric fitting on
one end and standard on the other to fit the GM calipers.

 

[Spud]

I bought my unit from home depot, around $40 if I recall. It works fine....but practicing on the old lines makes things go much easier.

I must say though...the convenience of the bendable stuff from Autozone or napa...sure makes flaring seem like a chore. it is really cheap too.[/QUOTE

I'm adapting steel lines to a rear disc conversion on my 40. So I need a metric fitting on
one end and standard on the other to fit the GM calipers.

I remember this being an issue when I picked up my 40.
The rear calipers and rotors etc. were mounted up, but no lines.

I decided to use just store bought standard lengths instead of flaring cause' I heard it could be a bitch.

A basically worked my way, piecing with american threads, till I got to a junction point where I chose to install the porportional valve. I mounted it directly under the rig near the center, tucked up near the shelf of the tub.

Then I ran the metric lines from the junction on the frame near the pass side wheel.

I tied them into the porportional valve by cutting the threads of the metric end with new american threads and then into the valve block with it. Has shown no leaks after about 9mos. of setup.

I did have issues with debris in the calipers from sitting with no lines hooked up to seal the system. The rig was in the driveway of the PO for several years with no lines so some stuff got in there.

For several months after initial setup I was plagued by the rear calipers loading up and rubbing to the point where I had to stop and crack the bleeders open and relieve the pressure. Finally after trying different valve setups and bleeding them umpteen times. I decided one day to unhook the callipers and blow them out. That did wonders and since then they have worked tip top.

I clamped off the factory rubber lines with a vice grip plier, unhooked the line and removed the bleeder, then shot air in where the bleeder hooks up and blew it out through where the line hooks up.

I think learning to use the flair tool and doing it right may be a more wise choice, but I wanted it done soonest and was on a tightwad budget.

 

[landtank]

leaving shortly and I really don't have any problems flaring tubing but I did find this site which explains how to do it. I thought I'd post it up in case it's some help.

Making sure the end of the tubing is clean and square and then protrudes the clamp the proper distance is pretty much the key to getting a good sealing flare every time.

Good luck

 

[Mbrantley]

Can you post a pic of your result or describe what it looks like?

I have always used the cheap double flaring tools and had good luck, only just recently have I upgraded to the rigid kit.

Matt

 

[KLF]

Some tips that I've picked up after doing a bunch of flares, some of which came out of desperation when I couldn't get a double-flare to work to save my life:

* Start with a good tool. Make sure you are using a metric tool for metric lines, and vice-versa. There is a difference.

* I read one on site somewhere that using a regulare wheel-type tubing cutter can "harden" the soft steel right at the cut point. So, I use a cutoff wheel in my Dremel tool. Now, this results in a cut that is not perfectly square and kinda rough. So I...

* Chuck the newly cut tube in the flaring tool, leave about 1/16" of the tube sticking out beyond the jaws of the tool. Make sure both ends of the jaw of the tool are absolutely even. Tighten it down really well, then put it in a vise and get a good tight grip on it. Take a good sharp bastard file and file the end of the tube down, use the flaring tool as a guide to file it flat, so the end is now absolutely perpendicular.

* Now the outer and inner edge of the cut will be burred. Burrs are bad, and will mess up your flare. I use the tang of a small file to de-burr the inner edge. Just a wee bit, very gently. Then I unclamp the tube from the tool, and gently de-burr the outer edge of the cut end. Take a piece of 400-grit emory paper to really polish it nicely. Admire your work. Be proud of it. Take your time, be at peace with the brake line and tools. See where I'm going with this?

* Now clamp the line in the tool again, following the instructions that came with the tool. Clamp it down TIGHT. Flare it as instructed, making sure the anvil stays perpendicular and everything is keeping in alignment. If it starts to go crooked, well it's probably too late.

* Admire your perfect flare.

These are my methods, works for me.

 

[green40]

Thanks Ken!