Nothing wrong with that, yours has definitely earned retirement. I'd love to have a stick-shift myself.
FJ62 ATF Conventional vs Synthetic?
- Thread starter Cruiserdrew
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Nothing wrong with that, yours has definitely earned retirement. I'd love to have a stick-shift myself.
No doubt the synthetic is more desirable, and I've run the Mobil1 in my 80 series for 10 years-after an initial flush, and 4 quart swap every year. I'm totally on board with a new, or relatively new tranny.
This FJ62 has just over 100k, so the benifits are not as clear to me. I'll get the cooler in over the weekend and then do the pan drop/clean out once CDan gets my gasket here. Then it will be final decision time.
I've been driving this truck all over the place and it's really nice and shifts well for a 20 year old truck. The shifting is different than my 80 with the A343. The A440 feels heavier or something. I notice there is more torque converter drag while idling-anyone else notice that? ie more pressure needed on the brake pedal to stay still.
I still see the tranny as the wild card on this truck, and the first time it hiccoughs, it's getting a 5 speed. The rest of it feels built to go forever. In many subtle ways the chassis is heavier built than the 60 series. I just wish the headlights were round.
What are the subtle ways that you feel it is stronger than the 60's?
Zack
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
- Thread starter
- #23
Just a few things I've seen so far. I've owned the truck only 2 weeks.
1-Gusset on the front axle to prevent bending.
2-Different pinion angle on the front-better for the front shaft u-joints, especially with a lift
3-additional boxing of the frame in the rear=rear shock mount integrated into this
4-Rear sway bar for better stability in turns
5-additional re-inforcement of the front recovery hook mount
6-Spring packs in the rear have an additional leaf
7-Transmission cross member mounts are welded at the factory and the cross member itself is more fully boxed/stronger
8-Spring plates are re-inforced with an integral cross member-very subtle and interchangable with 60 series=cool factor
9-(Minor) Rear recovery hook has a "barb" to retain a tow strap. Like I said, it's subtle!
Uncertain about this and I have not measured yet, but will===
The spring hangers look to be of heavier gauge metal
yep
380 k
240K on mine and running strong. No leaks or anything. That said, I'm due for a fluid change...
And I STILL need to get that damn cooler installed!
You know that you mention it, I seem to remember Lowtideride stating that the 62 frame was stronger.
All you have to do is swap in an H55, and round headlights and you will have the best of both worlds. I wonder how hard it would be to do the above swaps?
Zack
Pouting synthetic oil in your tranny is a waist of money, you should change the filter, gaskets and flush it with regular oil then you know all the system has new oil and that is all you need for a wile.
The oil filter is 100$ for the original Toyota, the gaskets: one for the filter 10$, and one for the pan 18$, it is an after market for 50$, but i recommend the original.
You should put synthetic oil in the differentials.
That is what I did and work pretty good.
Congrats on your new rig and good luck.
The oil filter is 100$ for the original Toyota, the gaskets: one for the filter 10$, and one for the pan 18$, it is an after market for 50$, but i recommend the original.
You should put synthetic oil in the differentials.
That is what I did and work pretty good.
Congrats on your new rig and good luck.
Since the tranny filter is actually a wire mesh, it's not even really necessary to replace it. Just remove it and clean it but good with a good solvent. That's what I do every time I drop my pan, and I haven't had any issues yet.
Since none of us really has a sufficient statistical basis for answering the question, I go with what the experts say (and by experts I mean Rodney of course) and that is that heat kills these trannys. With synthetic ATF mine runs about 20˙ cooler than with plain ATF, so with a add-on cooler too you would be running significantly a lower temp which has to add to the longevity of your tranny.
Rodney is basically the Jim C (Jim C the Carb God) of transmissions here (on Mud), so going with his take on something is likely a wise move.
jvazquez53
El Tractor
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I run synthetic fluid on just about everything with an engine, one of my vehicles has 265,000 miles on the odometer, and so far never fails me. My dirt bike, which I don't use very often (last time 2002) runs on synthetic, 2003 was the last oil change. I bought a bottle of Mobil One to do a change, but the oil was like brand new. Dodge caravans here are known for transmission problems due the mostly stop and go traffic and since I've been using synthetic fluid, problems are gone.
