FJ62 ATF Conventional vs Synthetic?

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Cruiserdrew

On the way there
Joined
Mar 15, 2003
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I just purchased a really decent FJ62 from a friend(original owner) at work, and as part of the baselining process, I've been going through all the fluids. This weekend, I did the passive "Rodney Flush" with Chevron MD-3 ATF.

I will be installing an ATF cooler next weekend and want some advice as to whether switching to synthetic fluid will make any difference except to my bank account.

Here is some info about the truck:

1989 FJ62
117K miles
Shifts fine/no issues
Never used to tow (and doesn't have a tow hitch)
Old ATF was slightly dark but still cherry red-I could tell where the new fluid started during the flush.
A cooler will be installed per the Euclid method here

Will Synthetic fluid get me anything? If I had a new tranny, I could see it, but the Chevron ATF is $1.99 per quart vs synthetic at $6 per quart.

It takes about 18 quarts for a full flush and top off, and 18 x $6 is a big number.

It does shift a little "smoother" after the Rodney Flush, so I'm convinced the old fluid needed to be changed, it just wasn't burnt looking.

So help me out here. I'll spend the $100 if it's going to get this tranny to 250k but if it really isn't needed, I'd like to hear that too.

I searched and there was no real debate on this issue before. Help a 3FE/A440 newbie please.
 
As long as you have a good transmission cooler and put in quality ATF, AND the seal between transmission and transfer case is not leaking (allowing gear oil to contaminate transmission fluid!!), your transmission should last more than 300k miles easily.

Just my own opinion, I do not think synthetic is needed in these transmissions if they are in good shape already and reasonably looked after.

The dark fluid definitely concerns me a little bit though, Did it smell burned at all?

Checked the gear oil in transfer case?

Maybe for peace of mind you could get a trans temperature gauge, if you splice it in with a t-fitting in one of the lines going to the cooler, that could be easy.
 
I did switched to Amsoil synthetic on on my 80 and I have not regretted at all.
 
To answer your question my man......NO

I have tried everything including all snake oils......just good old regular fluid changes is fine.

besides....if you wheel it in water you will need to change the fluids...and we both know how $$$$ that can get.
 
I am intrested in getting a trans cooler for mine. Were and what type do you recommend.
 
On rodney's advice I use Mobil 1 synthetic. Expensive, hard to find (in MS) but worth it in his opinion. Says it dispates heat better than dino-oil. I used it in my origional trans for the last 15K miles, and my aussie transmission has never seen anything but Mobile 1.
 
I'm currently running a Derale 16 pass (rated for 25,000 GVW) with mounted fan that kicks in at 180 degrees. Electra-Cool Remote Cooler

I prefer the fin and plate type coolers, and Derale makes one as well with the mounted fan. If I ever have any troubles with my current set up, I'll go with this one Atomic-Cool Remote Cooler or with a similar style from B&M........or swap in the H55 or NV4500 and be done with tranny coolers!
 
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Go with Amsoil. It is more expensive, but you know it will hold up well.

Zack
 
swepco makes really good trans fluid. It is very well known in the Porsche community.

Also you could get the Toyota dealership to do the BG transmission service and then add what ever fluid you want or let toyota fill it back for you.

The trans service with fluid is around $130 or so.

BG makes good products.
 
I went to this on my DD 3 years ago with 294K miles on it now cause I am guessing the transmission is the first thing that will go on the car.

Mobil Multi-Vehicle ATF

It is close in comparsion with Mobil 1 and about half the price awhile back. I would say definitely go with a good transmission cooler.
 
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I use Mobil 1 (synthetic) in my transmission and have no complaints. Synthetic is all-around a better way to go with lubricants because they'll last longer and can handle more extreme temps without breaking down.

Also IIRC using synthetic ATF will prevent varnish buildup and eventually absorb what's already there (like synthetic motor oil soaking up sludge over time). I could be wrong on this one though, so don't quote me on it.
 
No doubt the synthetic is more desirable, and I've run the Mobil1 in my 80 series for 10 years-after an initial flush, and 4 quart swap every year. I'm totally on board with a new, or relatively new tranny.

This FJ62 has just over 100k, so the benifits are not as clear to me. I'll get the cooler in over the weekend and then do the pan drop/clean out once CDan gets my gasket here. Then it will be final decision time.

I've been driving this truck all over the place and it's really nice and shifts well for a 20 year old truck. The shifting is different than my 80 with the A343. The A440 feels heavier or something. I notice there is more torque converter drag while idling-anyone else notice that? ie more pressure needed on the brake pedal to stay still.

I still see the tranny as the wild card on this truck, and the first time it hiccoughs, it's getting a 5 speed. The rest of it feels built to go forever. In many subtle ways the chassis is heavier built than the 60 series. I just wish the headlights were round.:D
 
They last a long time if they're taken care of. IIRC, C88 has well over 300 000 miles on his. Keep it cool, don't abuse it and you shouldn't have any issues for a long time.
 

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