FJ60 won't start.

[IDave]

Does it restart now?

Just looked it up. You don't have a carb screen. I guess there was crud somewhere in the carb passages that just needed to be floated out.

 

[60wag]

The fuel pump fills up the bowl in the carb. The main jets, the idle jets and the accelerator pump draw gas from the carb bowl. If the bowl is empty, the accel pump has nothing to squirt down the barrel of the carb. When the starter cranks the engine, it turns at oh about 40 rpm. Once the engine starts, it revs up to at least 700 or 800 rpm. A weak fuel pump will put out a lot more at 800 rpm that at 40. A new pump is about 50$ and pretty easy to install. When you take the old one off, notice the 1/4" thick plastic spacer between the pump and the block. You will likely reuse the old spacer - not sure if new pumps come with a new spacer. Also there is a gasket on both sides of the spacer. A stuck float could do it. The float work just like a toilet tank. When the liquid level drops, the float drops and opens a valve that allows the tank (bowl) to fill. The level rises and shuts off the valve. You could have fuel pump tested. Most shops can easily do a pressure and flow test - it'll probably cost about $50 - might as well replace it. If the pump is OK, you might have a carb problem. Take a look at the carb window when the truck is running to see what the gas level looks like. It should be in the middle of the window. If the truck refuses to start again - no gas in the carb, you might try a swift blow to the carb with a 2x4 to see if it unsticks the float and allows gas into the carb - don't break or dent anything though. I think the fuel pump is the more likely problem.

 

[swank60]

Good that you got it started.

Pumping the pedal isn't going to put gas into the engine - it only manages the carb functions that 60wag mentions. Turning the engine over gets the fuel pump moving to pump gas into the carb. That's why I figured the fan (boil out the contents, there's no gas in the carb to start the engine with)

At any rate, you may want to run some B12 through the gas tank to break up any deposits that might be in the fuel system. It'll also clean up that carb a little - there seems to be a lot of carbon at the throat. Get some carb cleaner (I like the B12) and hose that thing down - inside and out. One you're done, you'll want to spray a little silicone spray lube on the linkage to keep it all moving.

Another thing you can do is, with the breather off, rev the motor up to about 2500 rpm and, with gloved hand, cover the throat until it stalls. Do that a couple of times and it will backflush it by reversing the gas flow. Do that 2 or three times. It looks like your carb could use a little TLC. Though I do like the 2x4 method...

Did you ever check the vac in the gas tank? Or call a Toy dealer and find out if your tank has been replaced? It's worth a check.

I'm coming around to the idea of the bad fuel pump more and more. If you replace it though, be careful of that spacer. Also, come back to it in a few months and check the bolts on it - it can be an oil leaker.

 

[Doc]

The fuel pumps will be in today, apparently there are two variaties depending on when my truck was manufactured? Where can I find the manufacture date?

I'll be calling the dealer today also about checking to see if the tank was ever replaced. But there is no vaccum on the tank either.

 

[swank60]

The man date should be on the plate on the driver's door jam. I think.

 

[Doc]

Ok- update!

This morning's activities included replacing the fuel pump and air cleaner element.

The PO put in a K&N air cleaner element, but somehow managed to squish it down. the new factory element is at least half an inch taller than the old K&N unit. I must have sucked at least one or two bugs down driving like that!

Fuel pump went it without a hassle. I used the new block gaskets that came with the pump (2). The faulty pump had no gaskets, but a silicone layer instead, which I scraped off.

The first two start attempts with the new pump resulted in fumbling idle and choking out- I'm thinking it was refilling the gas lines. Third time it started right up. I think my idle is low- always has idled around 500 rpm (by dash tach), but sounds much healthier at 1000+ rpms. I'm guessing there is an easy idle adjustment screw on the carb? I'll probobly bump it to at least 750 rpms at idle.

As for cleaning out the carb. I'm planning a Sea-Foam treatment next weekend. Should be a lot of fun- I'll dump a can in the 60, the 80, and the sports car.

I'm also beginning to appreciate the simplicities of working with a carb. It's so easy to get access when sea-foaming or checking function. I couldn't have done any of this stuff on my fuel inj. cars, or at least not this easily!

Oreily's will sell me a set of plug wires for $30. So, that's next on the list of reversions. The 60 should be back to stock mechanically by the end of the month. It still won't have a radio- but that's the interior- and the interior is nearly last on the list.

 

[Doc]

[quote author=60wag link=board=1;threadid=15852;start=msg152172#msg152172 date=1083898349] When you take the old one off, notice the 1/4" thick plastic spacer between the pump and the block. You will likely reuse the old spacer - not sure if new pumps come with a new spacer. Also there is a gasket on both sides of the spacer.
[/quote]

There was no spacer on the old pump! But the new one did come with two gaskets. Hmmmmm.... Should there be a spacer? Is that what is causing failure? Should I buy a spacer now?

 

[swank60]

I think the spacer needs to be there - it would seem like it'd would damage the pump arm if it wasn't in place - tolerences and all.

Also, on the idle, there's a plate under the hood that tells you what to set the idle at. Generally it's 650 RPM. When you set it, set it when the truck is fully warmed, and you'll want to use a dwell/tach meter - you can pick one up for about $20-30 (here's one: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...0&vertical=TOOL&pid=00921029000&bidsite=CRAFT . Might check your local AutoZone or Oreilly's, too, they usually have a tool loaner program - might be able to just use that instead. you can't set it by ear, really. If you're running rough at 650 (and you can't really trust the one on the truck - it's more for approximations) that means your valves are out of adjustment, there's a vac leak, bad PVC, timing could be off - there's a whole list of things that it could be. Anyone's truck would smooth out at 850 RPM.

Speaking of tools, this might be a good place for a thread hijack: Aside from a dwell/tach meter and your usual hand tools, you'll also want to get a multi-meter, a timing light, a compression gauge, a good set of feeler gauges, a decent jack and jack stands, a vacuum gauge and a 12/6 v electrical test light. All are very helpful when working on a 60.

 

[Doc]

Pics of the faulty pump. There are some small wear marks on the arm. I might PM cruiserDan about a spacer.