FJ60 Transfer Case/Transmission Noise

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Does anyone have a guess what’s causing this noise? It’s an ‘87 60. I’ve been into the transfer case twice (3 times if you count the initial rebuild attempt) trying to figure out what the problem is and have nothing to show for it except sweat, tears, and shame.



The noise is loudest at around 55 mph.
 
I had a similar issue with my FJ60. The noise seemed to be coming up the transfer case shifter. If I pushed the TC shifter over to the side as I was driving, the noise would change, but not go away. What I found was that the nylon bushing in the TC shifter linkage was worn out. I replaced the bushing and it has been quiet as a mouse ever since.

Apparently there is a transmission shifter bushing as well, but I never messed with it because my noise issue was totally transfer case-related.

P/N for the bushing is 90385-08001.
T CASE bushing is: 36324-60050 in case it is coming from the transfer case lever.
 
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Thanks for the info! It’ll be amazing if it’s that easy of a fix. Just to clarify, you’re talking about the bushing on the linkage that goes to the high/low selector?
 
Thanks for the info! It’ll be amazing if it’s that easy of a fix. Just to clarify, you’re talking about the bushing on the linkage that goes to the high/low selector?
Yup. That's the one.
 
New bushings were installed last night. I was really hoping that would fix it, but the noise showed up on the ride to work this morning.

Any other ideas of what might be causing it?
 
What happen is you press the clutch?
 
Higher pitch or lower pitch sound in the video?

Same sound at a given speed if the clutch is depressed vs engaged? What roxx is asking above.

Sound the same under accel vs coast vs decel?

Was the noise there before you got into the transfer case?
 
It’s the higher pitched sound in the video. The sound is loudest when the truck’s good and warm, 55 mph, either barely on or barely off the throttle. Not nearly as noticeable when coasting or deep into the throttle.

The sound doesn’t get higher or lower pitched based on speed, though, which makes me think it’s something rattling or vibrating as opposed to spinning.

It doesn’t make the noise with the clutch pressed in, but I can sometimes hear it for a split second when the clutch is pressed during a gear shift. New clutch kit was installed about 2000 miles ago (not long after initial case rebuild).

I don’t think it made the noise prior to the case rebuild but the rebuild was one of the first things I did after buying the vehicle so I can’t say for sure.
 
Could be two things. The bearing is touching the pressure plate all the time which you can back it out or the bearing is bad. If you didnt replace the bearing with the clutch ( which is normally done) you will have to drop the tranny again and do it. Try adjust the slave cylinder and see if it does anything but you may be up for something bigger.
 
^ Clutch pedal adjustment is a very good place to start. Throughout bearings make high pitch noises like that, not usually geartrains.

I assume you've checked that fluid levels in the trans and transfer are both at the correct (not too high or too low) levels?

Also, I'm still wondering why the case has been apart three times. Was something wrong the first time that necessitated you going in, or were you trying to get rid of this noise? Curious if it was damaged somehow.
 
Thanks for the responses. I apologize in advance for the long post. I should have given all of this info up front, but I was hoping for a quick and easy diagnosis.

I bought the 60 sight unseen back in 2017 with the help of a good friend, who was nice enough to look it over, test drive it, and help out with the purchase. He knows vehicles, but he’s never owned a 60. I told him it would be a dog when he test drove it, so he figured all was well when it was miserably slow.

When I got it, half the smog equipment wasn’t working, and it had a horrible manifold leak. So, I did a full desmog (with parts from Jim C. and new vacuum hoses) and had the manifolds resurfaced.

Once that was done, I did a full drain and refill on the fluids. When I drained the transfer case, only about a cup of oil came out. After refilling, I took it on a long test drive and it was leaking like a sieve when I parked it.

So, I rebuilt the transfer case (bearings, seals, gaskets, o-rings). I did it from under the vehicle because I was gun shy about pulling the tranny and transfer case. The rebuild went reasonably well, and I thought I was good to go.

Then, the clutch started slipping. So, I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw-out and pilot bearing, etc. I also had the flywheel resurfaced.

I got a few weeks of joy until I started noticing “the noise”. I could have sworn it was the rear diff singing (my diagnostic skills are lacking), so I replaced the third member with a known good unit that roadstr6 was nice enough to sell for cheap. That didn’t do the trick.

At that point, I got the truck warmed up, put it on jack stands, put it in 4thgear, and used the choke to run up the rpm’s. I couldn’t get it to replicate the noise, but using a long screwdriver, the transfer case sounded really loud. It also had a lot more heat on it than anything else. My plan then was to drain and refill with heavier oil to see if it would quiet down. When I went to drain it, the oil was black and I could see little metal flecks in it. Yikes. I refilled with 85w-140 just so I could get it to town and back for an inspection. The noise still showed up.

So, I dove into the transfer case again. This time, I pulled the tranny/transfer combo and rebuilt it on the workbench. The only thing I saw that looked out of whack was the bearing retainer on the front half of the case. There was a gouge where the retainer seats. It looks like the bearing may have been crooked in the case half, which probably happened because I rebuilt it while sitting under the truck. I’m guessing that I didn’t get the case half seated well before tightening down the bolts. That bearing is on the transmission side of the seal, though, and the transmission oil looks great. I put everything back together, making sure that the bearing and its retainer were seated properly. I replaced the throw-out bearing with a Toyota bearing on re-install just to remove doubt.

Since the noise was still there, I tore into the case a third time. Nothing was obviously out of place. The bearing on the back half of the case behind the transmission seemed to ease into the retainer a little too easily, so I “pinged” the sides of the retainer hoping that it would grab the bearing. The metal sleeve that engages hi/low seemed to move around more than it should, but I convinced myself that there’s no way something rattling around could generate heat and make the oil turn black. I did have to add some shim thickness to get the correct preload.

And that’s where it’s at currently. It’s to the point where I probably need to just take it to a shop that knows cruisers, but I’m a) stubborn and b) not close to any shops that specialize in cruisers.

Thanks in advance for any insight.
 
I think it would be wise to do as Rafael and Johnny mentioned and check your throwout bearing linkage. Maybe back it off a smidge. The slave pushrod should have some visible "slack" in it when the clutch pedal is not depressed (i.e. the push rod should have slight fore/aft movement). If the push rod is too tight and pushing hard against the throwout bearing, the bearing will be getting a full time workout which can cause bearing failure. It also can wear out your clutch. Basically the same as driving around with your foot sitting on the clutch pedal.

Another point to ponder is that not all clutch kits are created equal. Depending on what kit you used, you could have gotten an inferior throwout bearing right from the get-go. It happens. I hope that is not your problem. Check, adjust if needed and let us know what you find.
 
From the sound on the video I am going to point a finger at the TC idler shaft. Was that replaced during one of the rebuilds? Also, on the next rebuild I would not recommend 140 weight oil. While it will quiet some noisy gears it also makes it harder for the oil to flow to important places. The reason I don't suspect the throwout bearing is because your noise is affected by throttle/engine load rather than clutch pedal position.
 
My Trail Tamer rebuild kit came with a new idler shaft, so I assumed that it would have been changed. But Rice is correct. That on/off throttle noise is consistent with a worn idler shaft. Classic symptom.
 
It is hard to tell from a noise on a video for anyone, that is a certainty. That said, this is an outside chance, but I did it once and it drove me nuts. The first gear inside the T case to go on the transmission output shaft is the INPUT GEAR. It is ALMOST symmetrical and can be installed backwards. If done it can then rub on the oil slinger on one of the idler gears. Not way up there on the probability list, but it can happen :)
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

I’ll check the pedal adjustment this weekend. The slave cylinder on the truck is non-adjustable if I’m not mistaken. It’s an 87 model. Not sure when they switched to the non adjustable style. Not to go down another rabbit hole, but I think the later 60 throw out bearings were made to ride on the pressure plate and spin constantly. Not looking to get sidetracked on that discussion, though. I’ll check and adjust as needed, and if I can adjust the pedal out enough to keep the throw out bearing off the pressure plate, I’ll give it a try and see what happens.

The transfer rebuild and clutch kits were both purchased from Cruiser Outfitters. The rebuild kit did include a new idler shaft. How much wear on the shaft would be enough to cause issues? Would it be obvious?

I only put the 85w140 in as a stop gap. It got refilled with 80w90.

Interesting thought about the input gear. Since it seems like I’ll be diving back in at least one more time, I’ll make a note to check that out.

Is it safe to assume that the noise is not worn gears?
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

I’ll check the pedal adjustment this weekend. The slave cylinder on the truck is non-adjustable if I’m not mistaken. It’s an 87 model. Not sure when they switched to the non adjustable style. Not to go down another rabbit hole, but I think the later 60 throw out bearings were made to ride on the pressure plate and spin constantly. Not looking to get sidetracked on that discussion, though. I’ll check and adjust as needed, and if I can adjust the pedal out enough to keep the throw out bearing off the pressure plate, I’ll give it a try and see what happens.

The transfer rebuild and clutch kits were both purchased from Cruiser Outfitters. The rebuild kit did include a new idler shaft. How much wear on the shaft would be enough to cause issues? Would it be obvious?

I only put the 85w140 in as a stop gap. It got refilled with 80w90.

Interesting thought about the input gear. Since it seems like I’ll be diving back in at least one more time, I’ll make a note to check that out.

Is it safe to assume that the noise is not worn gears?


It is not safe to assume that, no. If you have already replaced the idler shaft and in light of the one cup of oil that came out the first time you drained it, gears become number one suspect. That would require there be a change in pitch at different speeds which you can hear in the video.
 
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If trying the non-invasive suggestions listed above doesn’t do the trick, and nothing can be ruled out (gears, bearings, etc), is it better/cheaper to just find a known good transmission/transfer combo and be done with it?

I really only want to do this one more time (which was already been said three times :oops:).
 
Does anyone have a guess what’s causing this noise? It’s an ‘87 60. I’ve been into the transfer case twice (3 times if you count the initial rebuild attempt) trying to figure out what the problem is and have nothing to show for it except sweat, tears, and shame.



The noise is loudest at around 55 mph.

Did you ever find the culprit? I’m having a similar noise but only when coasting and decelerating….
 
I ended up pulling it again and replacing the gears with a used set from Valley Hybrids. But the noise still remained and I suffered on.

At some point I noticed that the rear output flange dust cover rang out when I tapped it with a wrench. The sound it made was the same pitch as the noise heard while driving, so I sprayed some flex seal on the inside of the dust cover to deaden the sound. Not sure if it just covered up a symptom, but it worked.

Long term, I have no idea if it worked or not because I sold the 60 a few months afterwards. Like all good Land Cruiser sales, there was a prayer meeting that included a blessing of the spare parts and a discussion covering all ailments and maladies. The wailing and gnashing of teeth was saved for the Cruiserless drive home.
 

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