Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (3 Viewers)

[FuglyYota]

Is there any fluid in the box? Or the hoses?

I believe I have the same basic red top box, and if it’s partially filled, and the pump isn’t running, the fluid would seem to hydraulically lock a little and create resistance. With it mostly dry, didn’t seem to do it. With pump running and fluid flowing, was fine. Also check the steering gear adjustment, make sure it’s not too tight and creating friction/bind.

I also agree it looks like there’s movement at the top towards the column, like it’s moving around on the collar side. Is the collar secure?

 

[workingdog]

I will check the bottom of the column, it's an EPS steering system, there may be something missing in there.

For the first time, the frame is on the suspension. Had to kludge up some springs so it would sit at ride height at it's current weight so that it will at least roll around.

 

[workingdog]

So, I got the driveline in and rear wheels and tires on and I got the tires to spin!!!! yea. first time with the rear on the tires and first time tires turned!!! Yea!!!

And then, lifting the throttle, the motors throw a canbus error. Check into it, fix some things with the canbus, and now it throws an error as soon as I press the throttle down. So, once again, one step forward, two steps backwards. Still cannot figure out what this canbus issues is and there are no tools to track it down.

And, yes, I know there's a wobble in the driveshaft in the video - I've fixed that.

 

[workingdog]

So, it finally occurred to me that the motors and the rest of the system never actually communicate with each other. I had assumed the network needed to cover the entire car, but it doesn't. So, I have the 2 motors connected together with canbus with 2 resistors. And I have the BMS and the charger connected together along with the canadapter to talk to the BMS, and now the system is working.

So, next, taking the steering column out, figure out how to install a bearing in the bottom of the EPS column, put it back in, put tow more tires on, and I should be able to roll it out of the garage and back in. We'll see what else gets in the way of making that happen.

 

[workingdog]

Steering

Finally got the steering column out to figure out the bearing issue. the good knew is, the column comes out from the EPS assembly so I can slip the bearing on without cutting the u-joint off the bottom. the bad news is the column is 7/8" and the tube is not standard either so neither the stock brash bushing or the bearing I bought will work. I've ordered a 7/8" firewall mount flange bearing from NextGen Offroad.

Also bought a bunch of smaller weight coils off FB so I'm going to be able to remove the PVC space and have real springs that are light enough to let the suspension work.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, need some advice on steering. the bearing shown in the above post was too small, so got the next size up, and it fits. But, I'm not sure the best way to set it in the bucket.

I opened up the hole in the bucket enough to allow the collar to sit in the bucket.

There's enough room on the inside I can set the set screws.

I could even tack weld the outside of the bearing to the bucket to make it semi permanent.

However, I could also open up the hole so the entire bearing sits in the bucket and the capture plate can sit flush.

Or, I can leave it like it's pictured now and use the exiting bolt holes and a little spacer to make it work. I think.
Any thoughts?

 

[workingdog]

I couldn't stick the collar inside because of the bottom of the column tube. So, it has to go outside, but the mounting plate worked out pretty good.

However, this is still a noticeable binding in the steering shafts at one point in their rotation. It's no longer making the column move, but it's definitely an issue and I have no idea what it is at this point.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I couldn't stick the collar inside because of the bottom of the column tube. So, it has to go outside, but the mounting plate worked out pretty good.


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However, this is still a noticeable binding in the steering shafts at one point in their rotation. It's no longer making the column move, but it's definitely an issue and I have no idea what it is at this point.

The bearing may just be a little funny at this point. Mine was until I screwed with it by spinning a bunch.

 

[workingdog]

It spins fine just the column and just the steering shafts. it's only when they are together there's a bind at one point in the rotation. I checked, the angle is only 18 degrees, less than the 35 degree max. So I'm not sure what to try next. Do I need a double u-joint?

 

[cruisermatt]

It spins fine just the column and just the steering shafts. it's only when they are together there's a bind at one point in the rotation. I checked, the angle is only 18 degrees, less than the 35 degree max. So I'm not sure what to try next. Do I need a double u-joint?

Are the two U-joints in phase?

 

[workingdog]

Yes, because it's double D shaft, they can't be out of phase. But it's something like that.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, the the problem with the steering was I had shoved the shafts too far into the u-joints and they were physically hitting. Which I couldn't until a friend came over and turned the wheel while I watched. With the EPS engaged, it was strong enough to blow the caps off one of the steering u-joints. But, with some adjustments, steering is working smoothly. And the last thing preventing movements.

So, without further ado ...



It moves. but no brakes, and I won't show the video of me trying to get it to stop and hitting my friends camry. Add a new hood for the camry to the cost of the EV.

 

[Bripars40]

Okay, the the problem with the steering was I had shoved the shafts too far into the u-joints and they were physically hitting. Which I couldn't until a friend came over and turned the wheel while I watched. With the EPS engaged, it was strong enough to blow the caps off one of the steering u-joints. But, with some adjustments, steering is working smoothly. And the last thing preventing movements.

So, without further ado ...



It moves. but no brakes, and I won't show the video of me trying to get it to stop and hitting my friends camry. Add a new hood for the camry to the cost of the EV.

Awesome! Great work.

Please share the video of you hitting your friends Camry!!

 

[workingdog]

rolled it out one more time to sweep out under it and took some pictures. Yes, I'm aware it's leaning. Need to adjust the coil springs.

During roll out battery fell off, cowl was not stiff enough, But otherwise okay. Once those issues are addressed it's brakes and then it should go around the block. Although I think I might need a seatbelt or some way to not just fall out of the F*cking thing while driving.

 

[Casey E]

rolled it out one more time to sweep out under it and took some pictures. Yes, I'm aware it's leaning. Need to adjust the coil springs.

During roll out battery fell off, cowl was not stiff enough, But otherwise okay. Once those issues are addressed it's brakes and then it should go around the block. Although I think I might need a seatbelt or some way to not just fall out of the F*cking thing while driving.

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You have done an amazing job. This is one hell of a build without going electric, the electric part puts it over the top. Can’t Waite to see it finished.

 

[cruisermatt]

Cant wait to see it. So awesome

 

[workingdog]

Okay, more fun. The EV package I bought included a little display that was supposed to show motor and battery status. But, it only showed the status of one motor, and now that the motors and batteries aren't on the same canbus, it's loses it's utility. So, I did what I should have done originally (but was not advised to) and bought 2 displays form NetGain for the Hyper 9's. If I'd had gotten them up front, life would have been much easier. they come with an orange wire. I'm inquiring from my guy how to wire them up, only to find out that there's no wire in the main connector for them, you have to add it in. I hate screwing with pinned connectors. So, I tore the large connectors down on both motor controllers, added the wire into what I hoped was the right location, and put it all back together, mounted the displays to the temporary dash, and turned it all back on.

And this is where things went typically to hell. One display was dead, and the other was throwing a series of errors. F**k me. So, assuming it was a wiring problem I spend 3 days messing around, including swapping the signal wire to the displays to confirm both actually worked. It finally occurs to me to check hyper 9's configuration. And, low and behold, there is a configuration for the display, which was set to 'none' on one of the controllers and set correctly on the other. Luckily NetGain had installed the OEM version of the software on my computer at some point, so I had access to all the options, otherwise I would not have been able to fix it.

So, now I have two working displays, but they are still throwing errors. But now I could see the errors on both units at the same time (instead of swapping the serial cable from unit to unit and using the lap top). The slave is showing a network error, but it does that if there's anything wrong with the master (because the master stops talking), the master was throwing a throttle fault. And, as with most of the errors, throttle fault means total shut down. So, I'm taking apart the connectors, figuring that when I put the wire for the display in, I must have damaged the pins for the throttle. but everything looks fine. Then taking the throttle off figuring when I move it, I might have damaged the connector. All fine. Finally, while tracing the wires back to look for a nick or something, I noticed that the signal wire solder joint had failed on the bulkhead connector. must have bumped it taking the big connector in and out. So, with the joint soldered back together, I have 2 green lights and the motors are turning again.

I know that when I get this thing on the trail, some obscure error is going to happen to the Hyper 9 and they are going to refuse to run and I'll be unable to get it moving - despite it being fully operational. I'm going to have to learn how to override the error system so I can force it to move. Now, in this case, the throttle wasn't sending it a signal, so overriding wouldn't have worked. But you know what I mean.

The final parts for the brake lines are showing up in the next few days, and with any luck, brakes should be operational. My experience the first run shows the need for an e-brake. Unlike a gas engine, there's very little resistance to rolling, so leaving it in gear is of little use. So, I'm going to have to order Jeep parking brake parts and figure out how to get it all mounted and some lever mounted in the cab.

 

[workingdog]

Okay, need some help. There's a vibration in the drivetrain. Seems to be less now, but still there. To be clear, without the flywheel and clutch, it's smooth as silk. It's very hard to get the iPhone to video it as it keeps removing all the vibration. But you can hear it and you can see it in the steering wheel and stick shift. I even attached a little flag to the bellhousing out of a zip tie and masking tape, but it didn't really work. Before I tear this down, which is a huge pain in the ass, I want to have a feel for what I'm getting into. This video has the the transmission in neutral. is the problem ...

1. flywheel installed incorrectly?
2. flywheel out of balance? Because on a V8, with all it's vibration, you'd never notice.
3. Something else.

This is a stock small block V8 flywheel and clutch - which aren't light. There are people that make light weight flywheels (12 lbs) and matching clutches for race applications. I was thinking of transitioning to that anyway - to lose 40 pounds.

 

[DangerNoodle]

That definitely doesn't look right. I have no idea what it may be, but I'd bet there is a problem in there somewhere. I know the diesel guys love heavier flywheels to help eliminate some vibration, but they are harder to get up to speed quickly, which is why a lot of the racers run really light flywheels. I have no idea how that would work in your application, though.

 

[workingdog]

the only reason I need a fly wheel is to have a surface for the clutch to engage. So, lighter is better. As long as I can get the racing flywheel/clutch companies to respond!!!