FJ60 - Exhaust Recomendation Please -Need to Replace All?

[CloudCasters]

Hello,

I have a 1985 FJ60 - all stock. I looked under it after purchase and seen that the exaust is blowing out at the collector(s) etc ..and there is no tail pipe at all after the muffler. In anycase it all looks rusted and nasty.

What to do.

Question 1: It does not have to go through DEQ so do I replace the CAT?

Question 2: Where does the exhaust pipe exit the rear of the vehicle? Does it go up and over the rear axle .. does it exit by rear wheel?

Question 3: Do I get everything new from a new header out. Does that improve the vehicle performance or improve gas milage at all?

Thanks!

 

[klinetime574]

Question 1: It does not have to go through DEQ so do I replace the CAT?

Question 2: Where does the exhaust pipe exit the rear of the vehicle? Does it go up and over the rear axle .. does it exit by rear wheel?

Question 3: Do I get everything new from a new header out. Does that improve the vehicle performance or improve gas milage at all?

#1 - I would run a catalytic converter. It keeps the smell down. I have a desmogged 2F and I run one.

#2 - Original routing goes over the axle close to the driver side rear shock and then exits straight out the back below the bumper. I ran it angled out in-between the mudflap and bumper. Exhaust won't be crushed from steep departure angles.

#3 - Performance not so much. But a new CAT and muffler would give you piece of mind they aren't clogged. And those would help mileage if they are currently clogged.

A big piece is also pipe diameter. Don't go larger than 2.5" IMO.

 

[CloudCasters]

Hi - What size was stock if I have to go new from exhaust manifold out? 2 1/4 or 2.5?

Thanks!

Also do you have photos where you came out at... thanks!

 

[Irish11]

Here are a few shots of my 62's exhaust. Don't know if they help or not http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...a-the-The-Flying-Brick)?p=1060153#post1060153

I had them done by a shop up in Edmonds/Everett off Highway 99. Went from the double cats on the standard 62 to a single high flow cat and out a magnaflow 3".

 

[Super77]

I just replaced my exhaust myself this weekend. I did the tailpipe, the muffler, and the flanged stub pipe just forward of the muffler. I left the existing Y-pipe and cats, as they were not in bad shape. The truck feels and sounds just as it did before, minus the exhaust coming out of the sides of the pipe.

I used Walker components, as these seemed to be the only DIY available OEM style replacements. Don't know about the long term quality, but my rig is stock and lightly used. No need for performance exhaust. Everything is available on Amazon and ships free with Prime. About $170 total. Summit sells them as well. The parts for an '85 60 seem to differ a bit from a 62, so double-check the Walker fitment guide if you buy their parts.

The original exhaust runs over the axle and all 3 of the parts I described are factory welded together. The assembly had to come out with a Sawzall, but it was toast anyway. The Walker replacements arrived as pieces, so you can pipe clamp or weld them together. I chose the former, since it was much easier to install and adjust it this way. If you go this route, there's no question about how the exhaust is supposed to run.

The fit of the Walker parts is not 100% perfect, but if you connect everything loosely at first, you can tweak it into place. The rubber mounts take up some of the tolerance. Make sure you replace the nice fat gasket at the flange connection to the Y-pipe. It will help you angle that connection just slightly to make up for any mis-fit.

The Walker tailpipe is long. Mine comes flush with the face of the rear bumper. I may trim it back a bit or have it bent 90 deg. to exit just after the mudflap.

 

[Zack1978]

The front pipe off of the engine is NLA from Toyota for an FJ-60....but the muffler/tailpipe is available.


Zack

 

[klinetime574]

Old photos, but here is how my exhaust exits.

 

[1911]

I ditched the cat converter on my 40 and the only difference was way less heat through the floor boards.

 

[60Works]

If your truck is still stock then using the OEM exhaust is my recommendation. It isn't that expensive (by Toyota standards) and it will fit. Everytime I've tried an aftermarket exhaust I've had to cut and re weld brackets. Or if you take it to a muffler shop they tend to torch off the OEM hangars on your frame. I hate letting gorilla mechanics touch my truck and most muffler shops are staffed with the left-overs.

OEM is a bolt-on, DIY, 3 hour job. You'll need to unbolt the left rear shock to get the pipe over the axle. It helps a lot to jack the frame up until the springs droop to gain more clearance. And buy new bolts rather than trying to reuse the old hardware.

There was a thread a few months back about a stainless steel exhaust for the 62's. It looked really nice but very expensive.

Good luck.

 

[Super77]

It isn't that expensive (by Toyota standards) and it will fit.

About $380 at my 2 local dealers. However, they said the forward stub pipe is NLA, and I'd have to find an aftermarket one to weld on. I wasn't clear on this, but is sounded like they just had the muffler and tailpipe as a single ass'y. Perhaps Sam can comment?

I hate letting gorilla mechanics touch my truck .

+1,000,000

You'll need to unbolt the left rear shock to get the pipe over the axle. It helps a lot to jack the frame up until the springs droop to gain more clearance.

Not necessary with the Walker exhaust I used, since it came in 3 pieces. Very easy to tease through the suspension.

Everytime I've tried an aftermarket exhaust I've had to cut and re weld brackets..

I was tempted. This was exactly the issue I ran into on the Walker parts. The geometry was just a tiny bit off.

 

[brian]

. I wasn't clear on this, but is sounded like they just had the muffler and tailpipe as a single ass'y. Perhaps Sam can comment?

the "tail pipe" is a single piece that runs from the flange on the rear of the cat, to the tip of the pipe, and includes the muffler.

 

[CloudCasters]

Im being told the CAT is unneeded expense since it will never go through DEQ again and also restricts flow. .... I think it is 200-300 dollars?

I have hot rods and ditch CATs typically - no Toyotas however.. Are any of the vehicles systems monitoring or requiring the CAT to be there that anyone knows of that will be effected removing CAT.

Thanks!

 

[Zack1978]

The list price for the stock 1 piece muffler/tail pipe assembly from Toyota is $270. Your local dealer is ripping you off! We have many great Mud vendors who are Toyota dealers and they will treat you properly!


Zack

 

[hank14]

The list price for the stock 1 piece muffler/tail pipe assembly from Toyota is $270.

Toyota part number please?

 

[FJ40Jim]

From a work order last week:
17430-61170 1 rear pipe & muffler assembly $278.00 $278.00
90080-43026 1 rear cat/pipe gasket $11.32 $11.32
17567-61030 2 Exh rubber mount blocks $27.00 $54.00
91828A251 8 M6 SS nuts & washers $0.99 $7.92

Edit: the above are roughly toyota retail pricing. If bought from a dealer that gives a TLCA discount or similar, expect to pay 25% less.

 

[gregnash]

I really need to get my truck up on a lift so I can understand this. I have a large clump of welding crap that I can see when looking down from the exhaust manifold and know that my stuff is slightly rusted and probably could be replaced as it sounds louder than it should to me.
This would be for an 85 FJ60

 

[brian]

did you drive this before handing over the cash?

 

[gregnash]

Who are you talking to Brian?

 

[TheJackRabbit]

I have an original Cherry Bomb muffler on hand, waiting for the day the original muffler needs be replaced. Is it likely the Cherry Bomb will create a change in back pressure which complicates tuning?

 

[brian]

I have an original Cherry Bomb muffler on hand, waiting for the day the original muffler needs be replaced. Is it likely the Cherry Bomb will create a change in back pressure which complicates tuning?

nope. note sure the cherry bomb is the way to go, a thrust or flow master yields decent results.