Fj60 diesel conversion (1 Viewer)

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So not much has been done today. I have been tracking parts today and yesterday. My bearings for the ranger OD are almost all here I have to wait till next Friday for one which sucks because I wanted all the done and installed tomorrow but no worries because I got some batteries so I can make a dual tray and bolt them in. Bolt in the Chevy radiator overflow and make a mount for the 6.5 fuse block then plumbing and wiring can happen. I have decided against the Chevy hydro brakes for room and because I don't know how well the stock Saginaw will push that along with my hydro assist steering. Thoughts on if it's bad I'm going to use the motor vacuum pump over the hydro?

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cruiser guy said:
I haven't really read up much on how to do the mod. Do I move this whole piece or is it just a sensor I move or what?
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What I came across was saying unbolt the module itself from the side of the IP, bolt on a bracket in its place, bolt the module to the bracket which moves it up out of the 'V' of the engine and into the "prop wash" off the cooling fan. The pictures that I recall showed the bracket being basically a 'L' shape that laid the module flat next to the intake manifold. Its been a couple of years since I did that research, so my memory may be a bit skewed.
 
ntsqd said:
What I came across was saying unbolt the module itself from the side of the IP, bolt on a bracket in its place, bolt the module to the bracket which moves it up out of the 'V' of the engine and into the "prop wash" off the cooling fan. The pictures that I recall showed the bracket being basically a 'L' shape that laid the module flat next to the intake manifold. Its been a couple of years since I did that research, so my memory may be a bit skewed.
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cool thanks! What's the talk about running a heat sink outside the engine bay? Any ideas on that?
 
I don't know why you don't want to run the hydroboost with the stock Saginaw. All kinds of gm trucks used the Saginaw pump for ps and for hydroboost.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I don't know why you don't want to run the hydroboost with the stock Saginaw. All kinds of gm trucks used the Saginaw pump for ps and for hydroboost.
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not sure if it will push hydro steering also and I have a bit of a space issue :(
 
I should have figured you were doing a thread on this. I still think you should swap ip to a mechanical one. Far easier. Then you have no need or worry for a pmd. Although I do have a new pmd that came with one of the 6.5's I got. I have no need of it. Did you do a compression check? Fresh injectors? Did you do anything I told you to do before installing that 6.5?
Jake
 
cruiser guy said:
cool thanks! What's the talk about running a heat sink outside the engine bay? Any ideas on that?
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My understanding is that the wiring loom is *just* long enough to move the module up and into the airflow. Anything further away means modifying the wiring harness. I'd be careful about doing that. Think of it like modifying an EFI wiring harness because they are extremely similar.

I'd sooner go with a mechanical IP. I may be needing one myself in a year or so. I'd like to know what the donor(s) are beyond the HMMV IP and the marine IP as neither of those seems all that common. I don't want the marine IP's calibration anyway.
 
ntsqd said:
My understanding is that the wiring loom is *just* long enough to move the module up and into the airflow. Anything further away means modifying the wiring harness. I'd be careful about doing that. Think of it like modifying an EFI wiring harness because they are extremely similar. I'd sooner go with a mechanical IP. I may be needing one myself in a year or so. I'd like to know what the donor(s) are beyond the HMMV IP and the marine IP as neither of those seems all that common. I don't want the marine IP's calibration anyway.
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alright that makes sense thanks! Do you have a 6.5? I might get the years wrong but I believe it's 1990 to 1992 that were mechanical 6.5s in the trucks ssdieselsupply has the truck IPs remaned and mechanical you can buy like 500 bucks
 
uglyoinker said:
I should have figured you were doing a thread on this. I still think you should swap ip to a mechanical one. Far easier. Then you have no need or worry for a pmd. Although I do have a new pmd that came with one of the 6.5's I got. I have no need of it. Did you do a compression check? Fresh injectors? Did you do anything I told you to do before installing that 6.5? Jake
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jake I did not compression check it or put in new injectors. It's a money issue and it ran really really well with strong power being I drove it home from bountiful with not a single running issue I wasn't worried about it. But I did fresh the seals and gaskets
 
Doesn't look like much done but I fought getting these to fit with the hood and everything but they fit and work well! It took me awhile to build the tray how I needed it but tomorrow I will make the hold downs and paint it all up and final install it. It's tight in there and I still have an intake washer bottle and radiator over flow, along with wiring harnesses fuse box and a few other things. Needless to say... It's busy in there

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cruiser guy said:
alright that makes sense thanks! Do you have a 6.5? I might get the years wrong but I believe it's 1990 to 1992 that were mechanical 6.5s in the trucks ssdieselsupply has the truck IPs remaned and mechanical you can buy like 500 bucks
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No 6.5, yet. Thinking to put one in the project coming up after I'm able to go back to work on and finish my 60's swap. Kinda regretting going with the 5.7L TPI in my 60 instead of the 6.5L. Going to check out ssdieselsupply.....
 
ntsqd said:
No 6.5, yet. Thinking to put one in the project coming up after I'm able to go back to work on and finish my 60's swap. Kinda regretting going with the 5.7L TPI in my 60 instead of the 6.5L. Going to check out ssdieselsupply.....
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cool! Yeah I'm already liking the idea of the 6.5 over the 5.7 already :D
 
No progress today or yesterday. I got a call with an offer I couldn't pass up and put in line over my cruiser. Picked up a king pin 60 front axle for my ford to ditch the TTB

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Those leaf-sprung F-250 TTB's are just weird. There's a guy down in Sandy Eggo who converted his to radius arms and coil-overs, and then did the long travel and camber correction mods to the TTB assembly. I get going solid axle, but I've long thought to do what that guy did if I ever end up with one.
 
ntsqd said:
Those leaf-sprung F-250 TTB's are just weird. There's a guy down in Sandy Eggo who converted his to radius arms and coil-overs, and then did the long travel and camber correction mods to the TTB assembly. I get going solid axle, but I've long thought to do what that guy did if I ever end up with one.
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it rides like a one ton now haha totally worth the swap to the solid one. The drivers side center pin locating hole was wallowed out 3 times the size. It was scary driving on the crazy stuff
 
Got my tray painted up and re mounted. All the power steering lines are hooked up. Used the Chevy PS cooler and mounted it and mounted and made a tube for my external resivoir for my hydro steering. It's close to my battery tray hopefully it won't cause an issue

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And a question for everyone. I am running real short on room on the holes from the engine bay through the cal to out behind the hood. So I'm thinking I won't have room for the oil cooler lines to come out. And I want to run one but if I can't do you see an issue with not running one? Any help would be great
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Was there a factory external oil cooler on that motor?
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yeah unfortunately it's in no shape to use it I was going to buy a new bigger one and get lines made for it
 
I ran a water cooled race car oil cooler (heat exchanger) and mounted it between the frame rail and rocker panel under the drivers side door.

Sorry I don't have any pics. I don't know what brand it is or anything. Bought it at a swap meet.

It was about 12" X 6" X 4" rectangle aluminum shaped box.

I suppose a marine heat exchanger would work.

One of these would work too
http://www.dudadiesel.com/heat_exchangers.php
I just bought a 30 plate B12A for another type of project. . It's small in size but does a great cooling job.

Your project is coming along nicely!!
 
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