FJ60 Crank Nose Thread Pitch/Die Size??? (1 Viewer)

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Does anyone know the thread pitch size and size die I should get to fix the threads on the end of my crank shaft? I think the thread pitch is about 1.5 mm and the diameter of the crank nose is about 13/16” (20.6 mm) but idk what for size to buy.

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looks like your keyway is worn also.
Lol yes thank you. That is a whole other can of worms. I have a new harmonic balancer, a new key, and am going to attempt the Loctite 660 for the key/keyway. If that does not work, I am looking into getting it welded.

My question for this post is the threads on the end of my crankshaft are shot and I need to rethread them. So I am interested in finding out what thread pitch the crank nose is and the diameter of the crank nose so I can buy the right size die. I think the thread pitch is 1.5mm and the diameter of the crank nose is ~21mm.
 

3_puppies

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even after cleaning up the threads, there may not be enough left to hold torque

there was a thread years ago about cutting a new keyway 180 degrees off of the original, maybe using a dremel??

no idea on size of threads or pitch.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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even after cleaning up the threads, there may not be enough left to hold torque

there was a thread years ago about cutting a new keyway 180 degrees off of the original, maybe using a dremel??

no idea on size of threads or pitch.
When I had my crank out I had it cut 180 out but not by me. Unfortunately the crank is not a piece that can be easily removed in situ, cam yes, (I did it). But a dremel is nice tool. Years ago the cutting of a new keyway was suggested by using cold chiseles. I have an old Dremel that only goes one speed and I use it for all sorts of stuff. The little metal wheels are great and I recently bought the carbide bits which are the bomb!

@lt1823 I tried the loctite 660, guess I tossed the tube as I couldn’t put my hands on it. When I had, I’d forgot before, I had used the loctite in the bed as Jim had done, then I mixed up JB Weld. I let it sit and thicken for a couple hours checking every so often for its consistency. Once it was nice and goopy I slowly dribbled it in from one end first so it would hopefully fill the gap. I tried to jiggle it so it would spread into the gap better. Didn’t think till now even a hair clipper or a cell phone on vibrate might help (I worked w/ porcelain years ago making crowns and that was a nice trick to be sure you had no bubbles).

I really beseech you to not bother w/ the almost $40 2oz tube. Just find a person w/ a portable welder and do it, it won’t be an easy task, most professional welders won’t do it due to liability. Just find a friend and run a quick bead 1/2” long. Even my crappy fluxcore held enough. Don’t bother to talk much on mud, people will slam you for the heat, etc to the snout.

But that issue w/ the threads will be your MOST trouble. Figure that out before you waste too much time on finding a welder.



Didn’t you say at some point that your nut was messed up too? @CenTXFJ60 this guy, maybe has a nut. Or @tmxmotorsports?
 
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NeverGiveUpYota

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You know the other thing.... you could do, it held for mine for a number of months. Skip the key, put the balancer on. If you figure out the threads for the nut.... spot weld the nut to the balancer.
That is exactly how I found mine when I decided to pull the hb. No key, keyway all sorts of sheared. Nut spot welded on. It was holding but once I cut through the weld the nut was an easy removal since there was nothing really locking it in place. The key in the hb is what stops it from moving so you can get a good torque on the nut.
Not the right way but it was working till I got giddy to replace my leaking front seal.
 
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I’d start by cleaning up the threads with a small file.

I can’t tell where you live, US? If so, buying a few dies might not be as easy as a trip to the hardware store?

there’s a lot of good thread on that crank. I’d find a machine shop that will face the nut seating surface of the harmonic balancer and pulley - cut enough material to pick up a few of the good threads with the crank nut.
 
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Thank you everyone for your help, I really appreciate it. I found a 22M x 1.5 die to clean up the crank nose threads, used a 22M x 1.5 tap to clean up the threads of the nut. I have a new key. Keyway on the crank is a little boogered up on the left side, so I think I'll either use a little loctite 660 or JB to build up the left side of the key way slightly. Going to put it all back together tomorrow and will let you know how it goes. Thought about taking the crank to a machine shop, but we'll see how tomorrow goes. Ultimately, I just need to get another 10-20k miles out of this truck until I can get my 5.3L Vortec in it 😉
 

NeverGiveUpYota

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Just saying, 660 needs temps over 60
Just weld the key in. You only want to put that back together once.
yeah I feel the same. As I’ve said before that 660 really doesn’t do what I felt it could have. It’s really hard to get into the sheared area to sand so it will have a better grip... At least add JB Weld to the open gap if you can’t weld.. I think you said you don’t. Let the JB set up for a few hours so it goes on thick and doesn’t wash out of the space your filling.
 

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