FJ60 Carb Not Getting Gas

[ThreeFJman]

I just purchased a "cherry" 1981 FJ60 with only 81,000 confirmed miles. Paid to have it shipped from Texas to my home in Nebraska. It will look good along side my two 40's. When I got it home I noticed the volt meter was reading very low. I tested the alternator and replaced it as it was shot. Oh, I must ad that I drove it for three days with no problems before I replaced the alternator. After replacing the alternator with a new one, the 60 wont start. It just turns over with no fire.

I poured a bit of gas in the carb and it started until the gas runs out that I poured in. I checked the fuel filter removing both in and out lines (both had fuel in them) and blew thru the filter with ease. Next I disconnected the hard fuel line on the carb to see if fuel was getting to the carb. With the line off, and the end of the line in a bottle I cranked it over to see if fuel was coming out of the line. As soon as I cranked it over it started. Again, until the lack of fuel killed it. I attached the fuel line and tried to start it....Nothing!

What could block the fuel at that point? I must add that I cannot see fuel in the sight glass. Is the carb in need of being rebuilt? Should I put on a Weber?

 

[GeologistFelix]

You don't say if any fuel actually got to the bottle on the disconnected hard line...did it?

If it did, see if the idle cutoff solenoid is working. It's the one thing on the top of the carb with a wire going to it.

Basically, you switch the key to Ignition without starting it, and you disconnect the solenoid plug. If it clicks as soon as it loses its power, and clicks again when you reconnect it, that means it's probably fine. If it doesn't make any noise, check the 'ENGINE' fuse in the box. If it's blown, see if it works with a new fuse. If not, you've probably got a bad solenoid.

 

[ThreeFJman]

...aditional

Oh, I guess I must add that the hard fuel line had ample amounts of fuel coming out of it when I cranked over the motor.

 

[ThreeFJman]

Thanks. I will try that when I get off work this afternoon. The 60 ran great for the short time I got to drive it, so Im hoping its something simple like that.

 

[EWTexas]

You might also try tapping on the top of carb where the fuel line goes in. Could be a stuck float not allowing fuel to enter carb.

 

[ThreeFJman]

Thanks for the help FJ freaks like me! The solenoid didnt click. I think it is dead. Where can I get a new one? Is it worth trying to get a used one? I thought about just spending the money on a weber 38 and ditching all the smog crap. I live in Nebraska, no smog laws. However, I do show this at car shows as it is mint. I dont know if I want to go none standard. Any thoughts??

 

[GeologistFelix]

If you want to desmog, either get your stock carb rebuilt, or get a Trollhole carb. From what I understand, the only people who are really happy with Webers are incredibly talented at tuning carbs, and don't have to deal with really steep slopes terribly often.

As for the solenoid, you'll want to check to see if it's getting 12 volts when the ignition is on. If it isn't, that means a problem higher up.

Alternately, what I'd do is unscrew the solenoid and bench-test it.

Even if it's dead, it's a lot cheaper than a carb to replace.

 

[Pin_Head]

If you have fuel coming out of the line, but none in the carb, then the needle valve is stuck closed. Try rapping on the fuel inlet with the handle of a screwdriver and see if the problem goes away. If not, spray some carb cleaner in the inlet and try again. Worst case is take the top cover off the carb, remove the valve and clean it and reinstall.

 

[ThreeFJman]

Thanks, and a pic of the 60.

Thanks guys. Ill give it another try. i am leaning toward keeping all the smog crap so it remains stock. That is, until I have more problems. Ill throw a pic up of my 60. Its original paint as well.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Before condemning the ICS, verify that it has +12V and ground at the connector with KOEO.

It's very posible that messing w/ the alt, the engine fuse is now popped, which robs the ICS of Pwr & Gnd.

 

[suprafastcelica]

Im having the same problem. It will not idle without the choke. When i drive it, it bucks backfires pops. It takes 6 hands to drive it. Very rarely it will idle on its own but stalls out after a few minutes. Im tempted to put a electric fuel pump in it just to poor more fuel than needed.

 

[60 toy ota]

x5...check that it's getting power. search for grounding the ics

 

[suprafastcelica]

Cut the white wire and grounded it. Nothing changed. Wtf??

 

[CruiserCase90]

My new orange fj60 is doing the same thing. I too am temped to get a new fuel pump. Any input?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Test the fuel pump for output volume per the FSM.

Replace with OEM if fuel pump is bad.
OEM pumps can be had fairly cheap in Carter brand boxes.

You're welcome.

 

[Cruzerman]

Jim, as always, has good advice. Don't run out and purchase parts until you test what you have. Fuels pumps and fuel cutoff solenoids can go bad, but not very often. I highly suggest that you test before replacing.

 

[jfnall]

I would throw in to NOT go the electric fuel pump route. I did it and had problems. Went back to OEM.

 

[Isaactf2]

I've got a new to me 85 FJ60, I'm having a similar problem where the carb bowl won't fill up. I disconnected the hard line and got fuel when I cranked it, but she still won't start. If I put gas in the bowl it starts then splutters and dies. I tried to smack the needle valve a few times to see if it opens up but still get no fuel when I pump the gas.

Anywhere I should look next?

 

[Pin_Head]

Remove the top cover screws and gently loosen the cover by tapping on it and lifting the fuel line. Once it is free, lift it up to that you can see the end of the needle valve where it meets the float. Free the needle up with some needle nose pliers or a small screwdriver so it can move up and down with the float. Crank the engine and see if fuel flows into the bowl and if the bowl over fills, If so, reinstall the screws, check for leaks ad the cover sealing surface and drive it. If not, take the cover all the way off and look for obstructions in the inlet for the needle valve.

 

[Isaactf2]

Remove the top cover screws and gently loosen the cover by tapping on it and lifting the fuel line. Once it is free, lift it up to that you can see the end of the needle valve where it meets the float. Free the needle up with some needle nose pliers or a small screwdriver so it can move up and down with the float. Crank the engine and see if fuel flows into the bowl and if the bowl over fills, If so, reinstall the screws, check for leaks ad the cover sealing surface and drive it. If not, take the cover all the way off and look for obstructions in the inlet for the needle valve.

Thanks for the help! Got the needle unstuck and now she's back up and running. I think the root cause could be that my carb fan isn't running. When poking around I found two wires (photo attached) that are disconnected. They are different colors so I'm going to do a little more digging and see if I can get the fan back up.