FJ60/62 Tailgate and Quarter panel storage lids (1 Viewer)

[socallove]

What's up FJ60 mudders! I'm a 80 series guy that have been making storage lids for the 80 series crew.
I wanted to get your opinions the product I want to introduce for the FJ60.
Your opinions are your own, but try to be constructive, I won't get butt hurt if you have something negative to say. I understand it's not for everyone but I find it extremely useful in my 80.

Made of 3/16" aluminum, it's strong enough to support 230# and possible up to 350# but I haven't found anyone that heavy to sit on it.
Stainless steel latches and hardware.
Aluminum piano hinge - I'm developing a new method of attaching the hinge that bolts on.

I have a local mudder loaning his spare tailgate for R&D, I think this project can be done by mid March.



$490 shipped

NEW VERSION.

 

[Output Shaft]

That looks nice.

There is one that's been available for some time:
wagongear.com » 60 Series Tailgate Lids

 

[socallove]

That looks nice.

There is one that's been available for some time:
wagongear.com » 60 Series Tailgate Lids

Yep, the original and I know it exists, but as far as I know, he stopped making it for awhile now?
I can have these done in 3 weeks or less, available for everyone to use.

 

[Skniper]

Hard to beat the fit and finish of the Wagongear stuff. I do like how your design opens toward the inside of the vehicle. I understand why Kevin's is opposite, but I'd prefer it your way. I'd also make your fasteners/screws as low profile as possible. Nice work.

 

[MANUCHAO]

No input..
Other than..I'll buy one..
Any more pics of how it looks from the inside (lip) and what cutting (any template provided) needs to be done?..

 

[socallove]

Hard to beat the fit and finish of the Wagongear stuff. I do like how your design opens toward the inside of the vehicle. I understand why Kevin's is opposite, but I'd prefer it your way. I'd also make your fasteners/screws as low profile as possible. Nice work.

Thank You skipper, this unit has counter sunk hardware, the latch is barely protruding maybe 1/8" at the highest point.
My next version will use either dome or flat head hardware, it will protrude 1/16".

 

[socallove]

No input..
Other than..I'll buy one..
Any more pics of how it looks from the inside (lip) and what cutting (any template provided) needs to be done?..

I haven't started R&D on an FJ60 lid yet, I should be getting a tailgate either today or Wednesday to start tinkering.
This does not require a template, you simply trace the inside of the lid leaving 1/4" or more and at least 1/2" where the hinge sits.
I designed it to be simple, easy to install and use what you already have to work to your advantage.
Here is what the inside of the 80 look like.

 

[WHG423]

This looks nice. I have been wanting Wagbongear to stock these again because I have been thinking about picking one up. Nice that there may be a alternative on the horizon. I am still having a hard time committing to hacking up my tailgate regardless.
Are you planning in offering these finished are all bare metal?
I know it would add to costs, but I think a gas lift shock or something similar would be beneficial for keeping the lid open while retrieving items.

 

[socallove]

@WHG423 I too was skeptical of cutting up my tailgate due to resale value and what not, but after a couple of mods like welding sliders to the frame, I stopped caring about resale. After cutting the tailgate for R&D, placing the lid on top gave me a very accomplished feeling.
The stuff I have inside my tailgate now is amazing, I think it would drive me bonkers if they were laying around in the cargo area.
Overall, I say it was very well worth the time, frustration, and money.

 

[micruz60]

The second picture shows the recessed / flush fasteners, definitely the way to go. You will have many prospective customers with this.

 

[Skniper]

The second picture shows the recessed / flush fasteners, definitely the way to go. You will have many prospective customers with this.

Ahh, didn't see the recessed fasteners first glance, nice. Other question, what about the sharp tailgate edge that looks exposed? That could be a little hazardous.

 

[WHG423]

Is that a built in ruler on the 2nd pic? If so, that's a nice touch!

 

[socallove]

Ahh, didn't see the recessed fasteners first glance, nice. Other question, what about the sharp tailgate edge that looks exposed? That could be a little hazardous.

I filed mine a bit after cutting, hasn't bother me yet, but I'm looking into sourcing some type of U channel foam or rubber to go over it.

@WHG423 regarding the finish, I plan to have optional cutting board on top of the lid exact shape and size. Perhaps quick release/removable depending on cost.

That is a ruler, only the first two original have the ruler, mine was #1
Everyone at camp can measure their trouts and ego on that thing.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I like it overall and the great thing is, they sound like they are going to be available for purchase....

The one thing I would offer is to change the D-ring style camlock you have pictured. I hate the little "TING TING TING" noises and the D-ring style latches will be a nuisance to most. While they may seem stiff and not free swinging now, THEY WILL SOON.

The recessed SouthCo camlock latches are available without the D-ring and also in a locking version for the customer that wants that option. With proper adjustment and design you won't need the D-ring for leverage to operate the latch.

Just my .02¢

GL

Jason

 

[jgoptions]

Saw your post at the 80 section.. I really ike the storage space it allows well made too.. I would change the locks too if that was me..

 

[socallove]

@reevesci I understand about the clanking, but folks have solved that issue by cutting a nylon or rubber tube and put it over the handle. I used some duct tape temporarily for 1.5 year now, haha I haven't gotten around to doing anything else bc it really just stopped clanking.

@jgoptions Thank You

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

@reevesci I understand about the clanking, but folks have solved that issue by cutting a nylon or rubber tube and put it over the handle. I used some duct tape temporarily for 1.5 year now, haha I haven't gotten around to doing anything else bc it really just stopped clanking.

@jgoptions Thank You

Just another .02 and courtesy to some end users like me... But if designed and thought out properly from the get go... there should be no need for make shift fixes. Just eliminate the potential issue from the beginning.

I'd be out for a purchase with those latches, just saying.

Now you just need a vendor star and you should be pretty much set.

J

 

[sschruff]

+1 and put me down for a kit as well!

 

[socallove]

I like it overall and the great thing is, they sound like they are going to be available for purchase....

The one thing I would offer is to change the D-ring style camlock you have pictured. I hate the little "TING TING TING" noises and the D-ring style latches will be a nuisance to most. While they may seem stiff and not free swinging now, THEY WILL SOON.

The recessed SouthCo camlock latches are available without the D-ring and also in a locking version for the customer that wants that option. With proper adjustment and design you won't need the D-ring for leverage to operate the latch.

Just my .02¢

GL

Jason

I will look into the cam lock, in fact, I have several sitting around, but I recall it sits way too low to catch onto the stopper. It was designed to keep things simple to keep prices down.

 

[Spike Strip]

Sub'd. I'm in.