Fj60 4wd T-case Vacuum switch 3D-Print

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Im going to go with a clamp for the top so i can experiment with different lubes, and service the o-ring if needed. I put in some grooves on the lid so i can make my own silicone seal around the top. I added some small grooves on the bottom for a labyrinth seal as suggested, Not a whole lot has changed. I made a new body for it and spaced out the vacuum ports farther from the main shaft. I still have to add a seal for the main shaft and make a way to mount it flat against a surface. I need some stops put in so i know when to stop turning it, Lastly I need a way to mount this to a flat surface but I have some ideas for that. Also I've made The the shell as well as the inner shaft slightly smaller to save on material.
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Nice to see the iterations and advancement of design towards form/for/function.
 
Final form is taking shape. Doing some tests to make sure everything is correct before i turn of the file for printing, alot of small adjustments/fixes are being made still but i should have it in my hands by next weekend
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So i incorporated resessed hardware, i only put a labryth seal on the top cap so i can hopefully get away with no top seal. I will try to post a file that you all can access later today. All orings size ID are inscribed on the cases top and on the bottom of the valve, All ports a labled aswell. Im putting in a print request today and should have one within a week. My only concern is that the hardware cavitys will be printed too small.. This print will require accuracy to .001mm i can always bore out the pockets if needed but i dont want to do that. As of now the required hardware is (4mm x 38mm 0.7 pitch)x3 bolts. (4mm x 10mm .7pitch)x2bolts (4mm .7 pitch)x5 nuts and im planning to use silicone grease or axle grease. These parts may change later
 
FJ60 Vacuum <--- The link to the valve. I have not tested this version yet so I DONT KNOW if it works or how well it works yet. I included an OBJ. file version for basic 3D editing software, and a Fusion360 file so it can be edited in the same CAD program i'm using, If anyone has any design suggestions or changes please let me know, I will test and post results tomorrow night. Final version may have a new link. Don't waste your time printing in PLA because it wont function. SLA prints work the best. just a fyi, This was made using the education version of Fusion 360 so you cannot remake and sell this as your own, i'm pretty sure that fusion360 by auto-desk owns this design. This file share is for my research and school project benefit only. you might have to make an account to download this.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3921313 <--- another link. Im stuck on 24hr uploading holds until you guys can get it.
 
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Well it works, but with a gnarly vaccum leak. The bolt indentions caused some fracture points. Tommoro im going to experiment with a gasket paper. Theres some obvious design improvments that can be made. anyway the current non working version is avalible on the autodesk link on my above post now. Im going to update the modle and keep testing untill i can get this brittle material to do what i want it too
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You can always use washers or aluminum top and bottom plates to prevent the overstress on the plastic. Or at least reduce it.
 
Just the nuts cracked because i gave it a paper thin sidewall, and now that i think about it my first modle didnt leak until after i added in the grease.. and yeah when I install this it will be behind a metal plate that will disperse the load more. The vent valve snapped off of this new version so the revision will be a press in part that will have a small bowl for a cotton ball filter.
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I think I figured it out!it wasn't the top face seal that was failing, it was the inner valve itself! I have to print the inner valve in 2 parts or else resin would get trapped inside, Its where I'm joining those 2 parts that the leak is happening. I'm going to make some final changes, do another print, and do more tests next week, and then post what I find.
 
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You might adjust the design to use socket head cap screws....gives it a cleaner look and easier to sink the heads flush with the surface.

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You might adjust the design to use socket head cap screws....gives it a cleaner look and easier to sink the heads flush with the surface.

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the 3 taller bolts on the posts will actually be visible when installed, the entire assembly will be behind a piece of sheet-metal, only exposing the knob. if it was a stand alone deal I would use those

Vacuum V3 Untested <-- will be live in 24hrs
 
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Had a bad print, the resolution on the printer was turned down and Nothing fits as it should, ill have to do another reprint, anyways this one pictured has an added cotton filter for the vent port
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The last step is to make the surface of the inner valve completely smooth to eliminate vacuum leaks. Could i use just regular valve lapping compound to make this seal true??
 
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Ok so after lapping the valve I got my vacuum gauge up to 15 from 10. But its still not pulling at its perfect 20. (as seen in the video)
I think my problem now lies in the lubrication of the valve. With no lube it doesn't turn easily and leaks vacuum, With axle grease it turns very nicely and only leaks 5 marks on the gauge, with Lithium grease it feels like sandpaper and wont turn. Also with the axle grease the vacuum will suck the grease up out of the valve assembly into the engine which is something i want to prevent... I need something between the stickiness of axle grease and the viscosity of lithium grease but I dont know what that is.
 
Ok I think I finally got it, Im running it and testing it now. Here are the files and a basic how to assemble if anyone else is interested, I will post its success / failure rate after a week of driving. Current vacuum loss is 0-3 bars so not bad
Vacuum Valve Final 4wd by ChaserFJ60 (Obj. File)
https://gallery.autodesk.com/projects/144469/fj60-vacuum-4wd-valve-main (.f3d & Obj. File, Can edit full project in fusion 360 with .f3d)

I suggest printing this in parts, orientating each object to promote the drainage on extra resin from the ports so they dont clog. any print that isn't using a 0.05mm or finer print resolution WILL fail. The printer i used was a FormLabs Form 2 SLA printer using the Standard Clear material. PLA printing will not work.

Tools/supplys required to assemble:
Valve Lapping Compound
Wire Snips
220grit & 1500 grit sandpaper
Wire Snips
(4mm x 38mm 0.7 pitch)x3 bolts (4mm x 10mm .7pitch)x2 bolts (4mm .7 pitch)x5 Nuts
Needle Noes pliers
x1 AS568-009 O-Ring
petroleum jelly
Hot Glue / Gasket Maker/ UV Curing (Just need one)

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If you can help it avoid putting print supports on these surfaces, These 2 surfaces will act as out face seal and must be perfectly smooth or else the valve will not work.

First We assemble the inner valve.
You will place some petroleum jelly in the channels of the lower plate to act as a seal, also coat the Small o-ring (AS568-009) with the jelly and place it in the small preformed groove, You will want to coat both the bottom and top of this valve assembly in lube before final assembly.
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Next you attach the Vacuum nipple and Filter to the main body with a sealant (UV Curing / Hot Glue / Gasket maker) I used hot glue. and insert both items in as pictured. Do not let the nipples extrude into the main body or they could interfere with the inner valve. These parts will break if dropped.
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Next You will add the hardware, The 3 red colored longer bolts are for mounting the valve to its custom bracket (For you to figure out.) the 2 blue colored bolts are for holding the assembly together so when you install or remove the valve it isn't falling apart, there are preformed slots for the nuts to go into below. (use a thin layer of grease around the top plate and the main body to improve the sealing quality)
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Finally you will place cotton into the filter, and insert the retaining pin with a sealant, Do not make this a permant bond or you wont be able to service the valve. I just used grease to hold it in place, a weak glue will work better. Be sure that the Pins slot is facing the side that says "Vent / A-B" or your valve will not work.
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After you mount the valve to its mounting bracket, put on the knob and whallah.
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Have either your 4wd Engage or 2wd engaging T-case hoses on either the A or B ports respectively. The vacuum supply is the lower nipple. Be careful not to snap off the nips when installing. If its leaking vacuum pressure then un-assemble the valve and make the valve top and top plate (as seen in the first pic) smooth either with super fine sand paper, or by lapping the valve. If you lap the valve add plenty of water to the solution to make it fine. clean off ALL the lapping compound and re-grease the entire valve and reassemble.

To use this, Rotate the valve until it stops in one direction to engage 4wd, then turn 180 degrees in the other direction to disengage 4wd,

(Please note that im in the final testing stages of this and I dont know how reliable this is as of now)
 
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