FJ60 2F Bi Metal Valve Question (1 Viewer)

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Need some help...85 FJ60 2F

My bi metal valves were trashed....I found the Violet one online and got it.
But I ordered the Pink one and got the blue one in the middle? I also found another Pink one online and purchased it just in case....
Does anyone know if the Blue one will work in place of the Pink? or what is the story with it?
When I do a search, it says it fits a number of vehicles, but not mine.
Is this true or can I use it in place of the Pink one? no big deal, I can return it, but I won't get full price..would rather keep it if it would work. I can use it on another 60 down the road.

The part number is 90925-05047
Any thoughts or info??

IMG_2219.JPG
 
The bi-metallic vacuum switching valves (BVSVs) that screw into the lower thermostat housings allow air to pass through the valve at certain temperatures (for those unfamiliar with them). For the FJ60 2F, the upper Violet BVSV opens near 111°F and closes near 86°F. The lower Pink BVSV opens near 66°F and closes near 41°F.

You can test the open/closed temperatures of the blue BVSV by submerging the brass end in a pot of heating (or cooling) water with a piece of vacuum hose connected to a nipple and noting the temperature when the valve opens & closes.

The opening & closing temps don't have to be exactly the same as the originals, but pretty close should be fine.

If you do test the blue one, post your results here so we'll know too :)

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The bi-metallic vacuum switching valves (BVSVs) that screw into the lower thermostat housings allow air to pass through the valve at certain temperatures (for those unfamiliar with them). For the FJ60 2F, the upper Violet BVSV opens near 111°F and closes near 86°F. The lower Pink BVSV opens near 66°F and closes near 41°F.

You can test the open/closed temperatures of the blue BVSV by submerging the brass end in a pot of heating (or cooling) water with a piece of vacuum hose connected to a nipple and noting the temperature when the valve opens & closes.

The opening & closing temps don't have to be exactly the same as the originals, but pretty close should be fine.

If you do test the blue one, post your results here so we'll know too :)

View attachment 1519182

View attachment 1519183

View attachment 1519184
Thanks for the Info!
 
I remember reading within the last year that 90925-05047 (blue) was a “replacement” for 90925-05046 (pink) and picked one up as a spare based on that claim. Unfortunately, I don’t think it’s a valid replacement for the pink BVSV.

As @OSS already mentioned;
90925-05035 opens at 44°C (111°F) and closes at 30°C (86°F)
90925-05046 opens at 19°C (66°F) and closes at 5°C (41°F)

90925-05035 controls EGR, Primary Vacuum Advance and Evap.
90925-05046 controls the Choke Opener System.

90925-05047 was used in a broad range of applications from Corollas to 4-Runners, ~ ’87 – 94. Picking one at random, it was used for the EGR systems on the 1988 MR2. The FSM for that car states that the valve should open at 54°C (129°F) and close at 35°C (95°F).

90925-05046.jpg


I can confirm by (very hot faucet+IR gun) testing that this is the right temperature range for this valve. It's nowhere near where a replacement for '46 should be. ‘47 would probably be just fine as a replacement for 90925-05035, but for 90925-05046…. simply bypassing the BVSV altogether would probably be better. Or, for cold conditions, rig up a manual system similar to what some folks are doing for HAC.
 
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I remember reading within the last year that 90925-05047 (blue) was a “replacement” for 90925-05046 (pink) and picked one up as a spare based on that claim. Unfortunately, I don’t think it’s a valid replacement the pink BVSV.

As @OSS already mentioned;
90925-05035 opens at 44°C (111°F) and closes at 30°C (86°F)
90925-05046 opens at 19°C (66°F) and closes at 5°C (41°F)

90925-05035 controls EGR, Primary Vacuum Advance and Evap.
90925-05046 controls the Choke Opener System.

90925-05047 was used in a broad range of applications ranging from Corollas to 4-Runners, ~ ’87 – 94. Picking one at random, it was used for the EGR systems on the 1988 MR2. The FSM for that car states that the valve should open at 54°C (129°F) and close at 35°C (95°F).

View attachment 1519364

I can confirm by (very hot faucet+IR gun) testing that this is the right temperature range for this valve. It's nowhere near where a replacement for '46 should be. ‘47 would probably be just fine as a replacement for 90925-05035, but for 90925-05046…. simply bypassing the BVSV altogether would probably be better. Or, for cold conditions, rig up a manual system similar to what some folks are doing for HAC.
Awesome info. Thank you for this! I appreciate it.
 
And to pile on...

The purpose of the violet upper bvsv is to improve drivability if you just start up a cold engine & drive away immediately. If you let the engine warm up for a couple minutes (which you should be doing anyway) there's no need for it, because the coolant gets up to 111°F inside the t-stat housing very quickly. Looping the vacuum hose to the two spaghetti pipes is a valid workaround for the upper bvsv.
 
And to pile on...

The purpose of the violet upper bvsv is to improve drivability if you just start up a cold engine & drive away immediately. If you let the engine warm up for a couple minutes (which you should be doing anyway) there's no need for it, because the coolant gets up to 111°F inside the t-stat housing very quickly. Looping the vacuum hose to the two spaghetti pipes is a valid workaround for the upper bvsv.
@OSS & @bhk thanks for all the information, this helps out a ton!
 
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Just dropping in to say thank you for the great knowledge.

Extremely useful!
 
I learned a lot from this thread years later and just want to pipe in and say thanks. My desmog and the PO deleted both valves, well just unplugged the pink and the violet one is snapped off at the bolt. I am trying to figure out if it makes any sense for me to go through the trouble of sourcing and reinstalling working ones in my desmogged system and this thread was incredibly helpful @OSS and @bhk

I am going to leave them unconnected over the summer then explore reconnecting them based on desmog directions posted elsewhere.
 
What happens if I replace the lower housing and I don't reconnect these vacuum valves? Struggling to find a lower thermostat housing with the vacuum connections. While swapping my thermostat the bolts came out way too easily. It had not been leaking but the lower housing seems to be stripped. Any ideas appreciated. I have a 4 bolt housing with 2 valve ports on the lower housing each with two hoses. There is no vacuum port on the top housing. 81 FJ60 2F
 

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