fj40 slight lift advice

[Devilmans Hand]

so its coming time to throw away my dryrotted 32/1150/15s and dual purpose my 33/1050/15 km2 to 4runner and FJ-40 duty. Until I can source some other 33s, or even 31s if need be. I don't like the 1150 wide tires so much.

My rear fenders are cut to similar dimensions as the inner fenderwell and fit the 32"MT tires fairly well The fenders are already cut, so i don't really mind trimming them some more. 33s will hit the front part of the lower fender under any articulation right now.

Stock saggy suspension with stock length shackles.

I've been debating some sort of shackle lift, v replacing all four springs(too expensive right now), 1" body lift, body trim, add a leafs/frankenstein pack, other. I figure zuk mod would not work well on a SUA without welding in some spring holders and changing the characteristics of the suspension.

I can drive and wheel the 32s with only a little rubbing in the front at full turn/stuff, so I think only slight modifications need to be made to drive the 33s. (famous last words, I think only slight modifications need to be made...)

I have some 1/4" plate steel that I could fab up some longer shackles, but then I'd need new u-bolts and shims. How big a "lift" shackle can I go before experiencing unwanted issues besides needing shim blocks?

any advice on what direction to go if I want to keep my lower CG, maintain on road characteristics, while fitting a 33" I could wheel, while staying on the cheap?

btw, I have rancho shocks and can exchange them for something longer if needed. No added cost.

I'm trying to go on the cheap while avoiding redneck engineering. key word: Trying.

I drive my 40 enthusiastically so my concern is to not jack the truck up and change the CG too much in the summertime with the top/doors off.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Think i'm going to try the fender cut option. I have about an inch of metal to play with at the front of the rear fender and plenty of rear fender to trim.
32 on there in the pics. I'll have to check how the 33/1050 on fj60 steelies fits soon.

The fronts are where tire width and wheel backspacing will matter. I'll likely have some rubbing on the inner lip of the front fender. but maybe not significantly more than what I already have w/ the 32s.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Sam, I personally wouldn't use 1/4" plate for the shackles if you're still going that way. I'd go 3/8".

For every inch of shackle over stock length, you'll only get 1/2" lift.

Good luck.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

I was thinking about that. I was going to maximize strength by building some "anti-inversion" style shackles that look more elliptical/triangular than rectangular. They would end up being wider than a stock rectangular shackle, and be harder to bend/ tweak. The anti inversion pin would not be located centrally nor in between the two attachment bolts.
I'll check out BMG metals tomorrow afternoon and see what 3/8" drop stock is available cheap.

 

[Stumpalama]

Sam,
1/4" is way too thin for shackles. 5/8"x 2" bar is a good size for shackles. If you are worried about rubbing, think about extended shackles and extending your bump stops so you stop the rubbing but maintain the droop.
Also, you could find an old set of 40 or 60 springs and add a leaf or 2 to your pack... I nice flexing somewhat lifted spring pack.

 

[Thornton]

Sam, have you thought of possibly having the springs re arched. Years ago before your time, I had a couple of buddies of mine that had there springs done by Virginia Leaf and Spring. Not sure how much this would cost. Josh had a 2.5" lift on his 40 with 33x12.50 and his front tires would rub on a full turn he also flred his rear fenders by stuffing the tire into the fender well, they weren't trimed. The 33x10.50's that I'm running give me no issues

 

[Stumpalama]

they may have remnant lengths at a discount.

 

[Thornton]

By the way. I believe I,ve got the extended shakles that came on the raffle truck and may be able to set you up with some old 40 springs if you think you might want to do what stump mentioned

 

[CondeCruiser]

Chantilly spring will re-arch them as well. They are in sterling.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Tom
I'll take you up on the springs for sure. Think I have the frankenpack method down and this worked very well on the 4runner. Those skyjacker springs had a lot of arch though.
I could use those shackles too, although I remember those being somewhat crazy long. I'll have to chop the u-bolts anyway for shims, so this works out.

So 5/8" bar for shackles...beefy. I'll scratch the 1/4" idea then. The stock shackles are thin, but I suppose as the lever arm increases length I should increase thickness too. (That sounded dirty)


I wasn't aware of a somewhat local place that re-arched/rebuilt springs.

Can I extend the height of the bump stops, or should I just buy new taller ones? I was looking at those cool silicone ones not too long ago. Supposed to be less jarring on sudden potholes.

Thanks for the assistance Dan/Tom/ Stump/Eric

***https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/723876-bump-stops.html
These look fairly simple.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

Chantilly spring will re-arch them as well. They are in sterling.

I'll have to give them a call and see how much it would cost. Looks like they don't have a website.

 

[Devilmans Hand]

just looking at costs elsewhere to re-arch springs and it appears to be more expensive than brand new factory springs due to labor costs.

I'm thinking a combo of frankenpack, shackles, bumpstops, and angled blocks/shims will be the answer.

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

Sam,
I would test fit your 33/1050/15 km2 and see if they will compress inside the fender well.

I ran 32/10.50 swampers with stock springs and uncut fenders for several years. I had a little rub on one side but my truck is a little askew.

 

[Stumpalama]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/723876-bump-stops.html
These look fairly simple.

Dead simple, I build the same things out of square tube and some flat bar.

 

[StaleAle]

I have a 3/4 set of more reasonable shackles (the fourth shackle has a bent side plate that may or may not be straightened).