Wanted FJ40 door safety straps

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just to point out, earlier models have a snap hook on the dash end that attaches to an eye bolt on the dash. The B pillar end attaches to a shoulder bolt.
Goo luck with your search.

Willy Jeeps use the same eye bolt. It was actually made by the same company for both Toyota and Jeep.

 
Would be curious the type of thread (Metric
or SAE) on the anchor shoulder bolts on eBay. Not sure when that fixed but went away on the tub. My 2/73 still used these. Once the B pillar catch was used assume it went away. Same with the eye bolts for the dash.
 
I'm looking for a set that has the door hinge mount "ROD" not the flat bar. I honestly ndo t know what they go for. Saw some on eBay years ago and I think BTB.
Never seen them but believe the flat bar is what Toyota provided with the straps. Believe the ones that used the bar and door catch actually came with all models certain years. The hole for the eyebolt on the dash is on hard top models up to the mid seventies at least. FST models the A pillar behind the dash has the hole and welded nut.
 
I have an 80 that shows a visible spot on the cowl on each side where it once was but no weld-nut ever installed. They probably all have them.
Never seen them but believe the flat bar is what Toyota provided with the straps. Believe the ones that used the bar and door catch actually came with all models certain years. The hole for the eyebolt on the dash is on hard top models up to the mid seventies at least. FST models the A pillar behind the dash has the hole and welded nut.

1739042261093245774204664136611.webp
 
I have never seen any US model FHT that had fixed nuts for eyebolts. Still have 61 FHT, 61 cowl for a FHT, 62 FHT, 68 FHT and 70 FHT that do not have fix nuts for eyebolts. These eyebolt do not clear hard doors. Need factory soft doors to leave them mounted.

Another interesting think about the FJ40, 72 model was the last time column shift was offered on the 40 series. Remote turn signal switch down close to the firewall ended at the same time. Yet up to the 82 model both cutouts for these are still by the steering column are still there.
PXL_20230206_211355520.webp
 
Anyone know if a 1964 FJ40 would use the eyelets or the bars? Mine doesn’t have the holes for either I don’t think.

I have an 1980 without the holes but there is a visible positioning for it. I drilled the holes the correct size and put a nut on the backside for the OEM metric eye bolts. I was going to use the bar but didn't want to have to remove the hinges from the door each time .

PXL_20250318_012842515.webp


PXL_20250318_012824754.webp


PXL_20250318_013138390.webp
 
I have an 1980 without the holes but there is a visible positioning for it. I drilled the holes the correct size and put a nut on the backside for the OEM metric eye bolts. I was going to use the bar but didn't want to have to remove the hinges from the door each time .

View attachment 3871947

View attachment 3871949

View attachment 3871951
Got it. Mine don’t have those indentions to drill out either for the eyelets, but I’ll get some and just drill the holes bc taking the hinges off sucks.
 
I have an 1980 without the holes but there is a visible positioning for it. I drilled the holes the correct size and put a nut on the backside for the OEM metric eye bolts. I was going to use the bar but didn't want to have to remove the hinges from the door each time .

View attachment 3871947

View attachment 3871949

View attachment 3871951
I ALS bought the straps and hardware without the flat bar rods from BTB. They said they would sell without bats if wanted for a cheaper price.
 
I ALS bought the straps and hardware without the flat bar rods from BTB. They said they would sell without bats if wanted for a cheaper price.
Good advice, I was going to email them and ask them about that. Thanks!!
 
Got it. Mine don’t have those indentions to drill out either for the eyelets, but I’ll get some and just drill the holes bc taking the hinges off sucks.
Don't drill to high or deep!!! You'll go through the other side! I was told you can also get the same eyelets on line if you look for Willys Jeep parts. I imagine they are standard thread.
 
Don't drill to high or deep!!! You'll go through the other side! I was told you can also get the same eyelets on line if you look for Willys Jeep parts. I imagine they are standard thread.
You drill through and then just use the nut on the other side, correct? Wasn’t sure what you meant by don’t drill all the way through.

This is what I found based on MUD.

 
You drill through and then just use the nut on the other side, correct? Wasn’t sure what you meant by don’t drill all the way through.

This is what I found based on MUD.

Yes but only through the first layer of steel and not too high or you'll go through the horizontal cowl skin that your windshield sill sets on. Its better if you lower your windshield so you can see the distance down you need to go and take into consistency the size hole you drill so one side doesn't cut through. I used a 10mm x1.25 thread nut. There is very little room for the nut to fit so you'll have to one side down almost to the threads to fit it up in the slot where you drilled your hole. Only way to get the nut up in behind it lines up is to stick it on the top of which ever finger you use to reach it!!! It takes some effort but if my big hands can do it I imagine anyone can. You have to reach up there deep and find your finger through the hole and see if you can to the back side of hole. Once I did that I marked the center of my finger in the hole and that is how I centered the nut so that it would be positioned right for alignment. I used stretchy electrical tape around my finger and two side of the nut to hold it in place. You can't get two fingers on it....at least I couldn't.
 
You guys shouldn't be drilling holes in the dashboards of your later model Cruisers for that eyelet. The bars are made to attach to the hinges for your doors and they work quite well and don't require putting bonus holes in your dashboard.
Yes I know there is a kit with bars but I didn't want to keep taking the hinges off the doors and leave hinges flipping around.mine had the hole position but never drilled for a nut. I just drilled and added the nut as it originally was made before. It's clean. All I have to do when I install my top and hard doors is unscrew them. Nut stays in place.

17432136397357088974239601294782.webp
 
Willy Jeeps use the same eye bolt. It was actually made by the same company for both Toyota and Jeep.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think these same eyebolts also have applications with pintel hitches.
 
You guys shouldn't be drilling holes in the dashboards of your later model Cruisers for that eyelet. The bars are made to attach to the hinges for your doors and they work quite well and don't require putting bonus holes in your dashboard.

My 2/73 FST has the threaded holes from the factory. It a Po that added all the bonus holes.
IMG_20200923_121002604.webp

IMG_20200923_121055460.webp
IMG_20200923_120956535.webp


Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think these same eyebolts also have applications with pintel hitches.

No where close to the pintle hook eye bolts for the safety chains. Beside being much smaller the pintle hook eye bolts are angled.
Here is my 73 FST eye bolts. These came in different sizes. Earlier one were larger.
IMG_20200922_100933531.webp
 
Don't drill to high or deep!!! You'll go through the other side! I was told you can also get the same eyelets on line if you look for Willys Jeep parts. I imagine they are standard thread.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think these same eyebolts also have applications with pintel hitches.
The pintle eye bolts are longer with angled eyes
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom