FJ40 body mount bolts through cabin into chassis. Normal?

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Joined
Jun 11, 2019
Threads
2
Messages
6
Location
Caracas, Venezuela
Hi everyone, first post here.

My cousin and I have been working on an 1980 FJ40 since August, not doing a full restoration but servicing and replacing many things. Been reading alot in this forum and would like to thank everyone for all the info.

We bought the Daystar mody mount kit and will be replacing the bolts and the mounts. The bolts for the body mounts are installed from inside the cabin but for some reason believe this shouldn't be the case. That it should fit the socket into the bolt head through the hole in the cabin, but not the bolt head. I hope I'm explaining myself.

Here are some pictures. In summary, is this normal? Thanks!

whatsapp-image-2019-06-11-at-4-58-37-pm-jpeg.2000796
2000797
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WhatsApp Image 2019-06-11 at 4.58.37 PM.webp
 
I don't quite follow whats happened here. There should be a well (hole in the floor)
large enough for a socket head. Below the hole in the well is where you'd find the
body mount bolt head. Since mine is a 79 .... i wouldn't think it was that different
on an 80. Perhaps there was a bit of adjustment needed with a different non-oem
tub and this occurred?
 
those bolts should not be seen on the inside.
someone has done some work to the front floorboards, as they are smooth and coped along the outside edge.
 
I know the rear were recessed with plugs covering the hole. Would have to check my 79 but thinking fronts the floor recessed a little so the bolt heads were flush with the floor. Can see the front floor has been patched at the least. This is either from another market or someone added barn doors and a hatch.
 
his location states Caracas, Venezula
 
his location states Caracas, Venezula


I liked the old mud when you didn't have to click on a user name to find that information.
What do you made of that clutch pedal? Believe I have the pedal bucket from a 3/82 and think it square like my 79.
 
Better picture of the front plug.
IMG_20190611_194857982.webp


The other picture didn't show as well and looked like full of rust. It's a non operating cruiser stored in a garage and dark in the cab. If it was full of rust was going to think twice about restoring. That mainly dirt under the floor mat.
 
I agree with both Puppies and LITP. You have a South American Land Cruiser, possibly assembled in Venezuela with the older style rear doors. You probably realize your truck was heavily used and has been repaired in the past. Your front floor probably rusted out and has been patched with a flat steel panel possibly welded OVER the remains of the original ribbed floor. And someone has gone to town with Bondo/filler to make it appear to be correct. Repairs were also done to the rear floor.

Check to see if there are any body mounts/rubber donuts on the opposite side of that floor panel. Despite being incorrect, you might be able to use your current setup with the new bolts and body mounts if there's not a gap between the original floor and the current top flat floor. It would be good to know what is underneath all that paint and filler. Go under the truck and look up at the floor patching from below to determine how well the patch job was done.

Good luck.
 
I liked the old mud when you didn't have to click on a user name to find that information.
What do you made of that clutch pedal? Believe I have the pedal bucket from a 3/82 and think it square like my 79.


location is in the box under his user name.

didn't notice the clutch pedal, sure doesn't look stock, as the stock ones were smooth with a rubber cover.
 
Hey everyone, thanks a lot for the insight and the pictures. Really helpful forum.

A little history on this FJ40. It spent its life in the northenmost Andes mountains, near the Merida region in Venezuela. A previous owner bought it, and did some body work on the truck to "restore it" and overall, it looks very ok, lots of details (they painted over lots of bondo and some rust, but we're not too worried. We're not trying to get the car to be museum worthy. The previous owner put effort into making it look nice, and not making it run nice. We bought it at a good price and have gotten the entire brake system replaced, the differentials fixed, new wiring harness and electrical system, completely new suspension, etc. engine runs great so no work there.

Regarding the floorboards, the previous owner did solder flat boards over the rusted floor, its easily noticeable in underneath. They didn't do a great job fixing the body, but we'll leave that for later.

Regarding the solution,

Should we open a larger hole in those metal sheets, allowing the socket heads to go through into the body mount and chassis, and then simply place a plastic or metal cover on top? What would you recommend as a solution going forward?

Not trying to get it exactly stock, same as it rolled out of the factory in 1980, but rather make sure that the body mounts are placed properly.

Thanks again!

Here's out FJ40:
2001119
 
Not a new member, but new to 40s. I'm the one doing the work to the truck.

The vehicle has lived a rough work life and has had body work done, a very crappy one at that, but that's ok.

Yes, the vehicle is a South American spec, Venezuelan-made 40. So Barn doors and hatch are standard. Also, clutch pedal is stock but it needs the rubber pad.

I'll be posting pictures later of what the body mounts look like under the vehicle in order to figure out what we're gonna have to do. My guess is drill larger holes for the socket to fit, and install those bolts the way they came from factory.

Thanks for the replies!
 
I thought all the body mount bolts came up from the underside into the rubber mounts that had a captured nut?
 
I thought all the body mount bolts came up from the underside into the rubber mounts that had a captured nut?


I have never had to do anything to my 79 but did undo all the body mounts on a 82 frame/tub I have. The bolts go from the top. If they didn't there would be no need for the plugs. This was on 79+ 40 series made in Japan. Those put together in other markets I don't know. Those earlier did go from the bottom except for two in the middle of the rear floor. Pretty those came from the top.
 
Hey everyone, thanks a lot for the insight and the pictures. Really helpful forum.

A little history on this FJ40. It spent its life in the northenmost Andes mountains, near the Merida region in Venezuela. A previous owner bought it, and did some body work on the truck to "restore it" and overall, it looks very ok, lots of details (they painted over lots of bondo and some rust, but we're not too worried. We're not trying to get the car to be museum worthy. The previous owner put effort into making it look nice, and not making it run nice. We bought it at a good price and have gotten the entire brake system replaced, the differentials fixed, new wiring harness and electrical system, completely new suspension, etc. engine runs great so no work there.

Regarding the floorboards, the previous owner did solder flat boards over the rusted floor, its easily noticeable in underneath. They didn't do a great job fixing the body, but we'll leave that for later.

Regarding the solution,

Should we open a larger hole in those metal sheets, allowing the socket heads to go through into the body mount and chassis, and then simply place a plastic or metal cover on top? What would you recommend as a solution going forward?

Not trying to get it exactly stock, same as it rolled out of the factory in 1980, but rather make sure that the body mounts are placed properly.

Thanks again!

Here's out FJ40:
View attachment 2001119


Going forward depending on how original you want it to be. My guess it bracket below the floor is in bad shape and when the patched the floor used material heavy enough to use bolts. I would check the condition of the two brackets in the rear sill and the two up front by the A pillar. Want to be sure those are still strong enough to hold their share of the weight of the tub. They used longers bolt at the floor not recessed for a reason.
 
I suspect its not completely stable as is. Remember...there is still a well there. That means
there is an air gap between the top of floor to the sill plate. Normally this bolt would not have
an air gap in the middle and you'd be able to crank that bolt down since its metal on metal.
As is...I bet you couldn't crank down the bolt without bending the floor pan.
 

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