fj 60 manifold thoughts

[nstanbro]

I just bought a used intake/exhaust manifold, full remflex gasket set, and the new weber one piece mounting kit I need some opions/advice:

1. Should I pull the two pieces apart and put in a the new remflex intake/exhaust gasket?

2. Bolts are pretty rusty is there any where to purchase some kind of bolt kit?

3. Is it OK that I can move the two end pieces on the exhaust manifold or do I need new rings?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

 

[Spike Strip]

If you take the manifolds apart, you're gonna need to get them resurfaced, but you may need that anyway if the mating surface isn't straight. If it is, then just use the remflex and call it good.

Check the flapper in the exh to make sure it's not frozen. If it is, use some penetrant to free it up.

If there's blowby around the end horns, the rings should be replaced. The rings are expensive ... You can get around it by using some of the hi temp orange permatex on the horns and rings when you put it back in.

Also, check for a crack in the intake by looking down the throat. Can be a very fine hairline crack, too. If it's there, the manifold needs to be fixed or replaced.

 

[hank14]

Here's my $0.02. I can't give totally authoritative comments, as I'm 1/2 way through rebuilding mine right now.

1. Should I pull the two pieces apart and put in a the new remflex intake/exhaust gasket?"

I would pull them apart while you have it off the vehicle. I did not do that when I recently replaced my I/E gaskets, and I think my intake manifold may be cracked due to low vacuum. Now, I am doing it over. I also did not pull the swivel ends, and I have had a slight exhaust leak at one of the horns since putting it back together.

Before you separate the 2, find a machine shop that will resurface them together once you put them back together. Otherwise, you're time and energy may be wasted with new leaks.

I had mine bead blasted, planed, and then I used POR15 high temp paint on them (manifold grey on the exhaust and aluminum on the intake) to spiffy them up.

"2. Bolts are pretty rusty is there any where to purchase some kind of bolt kit?"

I went to toyotadiy.com, pulled up the diagram for the manifold, and ordered the individual bolts form Toyota. I spent about $75.00 on bolts and the springs for the exhaust horns.

"3. Is it OK that I can move the two end pieces on the exhaust manifold or do I need new rings?"

I think so- some of them swivel and some don't, but I would still pull them apart and at least spread out the rings and use some sealant as Spike suggested.

Good luck and post some pics or more questions if you're unsure.

 

[Heartworm]

A brand new OEM manifold set is $571 (Cruiser Dan). If you find that yours are warped, cracked, flapper not flapping, ends leaking, etc. it might not be much more money just to buy new instead of d**king around with the old.

 

[hank14]

A brand new OEM manifold set is $571 (Cruiser Dan). If you find that yours are warped, cracked, flapper not flapping, ends leaking, etc. it might not be much more money just to buy new instead of d**king around with the old.

I totally agree, as I have mentioned in another manifold rebuild thread. But once you start down the slippery slope......it's hard to regain control.

 

[Outdoor Adventure]

Go new if you can. In addition to the points already made, you have to look carefully at the heat riser. Not only must it function, it must not leak. There is a cap at the rear end that should be in place and the front has a bushing that can also be a source of a leak. The heat riser shaft and bushing are no longer available. So if you have wear here at these two points, you'll have an exhaust tick that won't go away. The only was to get rid of this annoying tick once the install is complete is to drop the down pipe, cut out the heat riser shaft and plate, tap and bolt up the holes at each end of the manifold. When you add up machining costs, possible wear in a used manifold, new is the way to go,if you can afford it. I wish I had.

 

[nstanbro]

Now I did it! Broke one of the bolts trying to get the two pieces apart. I'm at a loss looking for a machine shop to help me.

 

[Spike Strip]

It would help to post your location... I'm sure somebody will post a machine shop to help you out...

They can do EDM (electronic discharge machining) or drill/tap. Shouldn't be too much.

 

[nstanbro]

Milwaukee, Wi

 

[sl33py]

Milwaukee, Wi

Lots to choose from - i'd start calling to see how much they charge and who is closest:

Machine Shops in Milwaukee, Wisconsin

google is your friend!

 

[hank14]

I broke one of the EGR J-tube studs on mine, then broke an EZ Out extractor off in it. Had to have it drilled and tapped.

Your exhaust manifold looks really rusty- you might try to find another one, or you could be headed for lots more headaches before it's all said and done.