Fj-55 Door Hinge Rebuild With Grease Fitting

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Chadwickreamers wanted 67+ for one reamer<ouch> will try to get one less pricey. did buy a 3 axis drill vise:cool:

Lou
Lemme see Lou, what she look like?Finished and painted hinges today, turned out uber nice, took hours to make the zerk thing work with the upper rear hinge. Hint, unless you want to do plenty filing, maybe want to get 1/2 end mill, more ouch. You will have no problem but those upper rears are a bear! I've seen carbon blade reamers for $15. Finish thread tomorrow. Went off I guess, going for longest continuos thread in history. So come on, I'm begging here, those SOR hinges, bigger pin?
 
OK, am going to order one more refurbished hinge till I can get all my stuff together and will take an outside measurement of the pin where it is flush with the strap..............

Lou
 
I will prolly go with carbon, as I (for a while) will only need to do one rig's worth.
 
Making room for the zerk on the rear uppers

The object here is to shorten the notched side of the rear stay strap to allow room for the zerk fitting. I machined it down to a length of 0.350". The former length was 1/2". It is probably posible to do this with a file, go for it. I used a 1/2" end mill. The goal is to remove enough material so that you have room to install the mounting screw through the hole above the zerk. I suspect that a 45 deg. zerk might work better in this situation. I used a 90 deg zerk and ended up removing material from the top of the zerk to finally make room for the mounting bolt. Second picture shows the setup I used. Scary, you bet but got the job done. There is no need to remove material from the stay. Just the Stay strap. In the first picture. please note the angle between the zerk fitting and the Stay. You will need to set it up like this for grease gun access.
zerkclearance1.webp
endmillstay1.webp
 
Last edited:
Square the Ends

I used an endmill for this job but a file does just nifty if you can file flat. Oh come on! No way you can hacksaw that good. It is important to achieve at least some squareness and some flatness for the next operations. The final length should end up 2.4". Shorter for the upper rear hinges.
endmillends.webp
 
Last edited:
Center Drill Pin

Break out that size 4 center drill. Find center and drill to a chamfer large enough to accept a 13/64" drill. Center drill for a 3/16" drill for drive in zerk applications.
centerdrillpin1.webp
 
Last edited:
Drill the Center

Use a 3/16" drill to drill to a depth of 1.5". Good idea to use a machining fluid such as rapid tap. Further you go more you peck. skip the next step if you plan on using drive in zerks. Drill using a 13/64" drill to a depth of 1/2" for the 1/4-28 threading operation.
drillpin1.webp
 
Last edited:
Tapping for the Zerk Fitting

I used vice grips for this operation. Clamp the grips in the first 1/2" of the pin only. Do not bung up the hinge bearing surface. If you damage the hinge bearing area then you have yourself a stick o s****. If you can feel any surface deformation in the bearing area then toss the sucker. The object here is to tap deep enough to fully recieve the zerk. Those niggly upper rears again. Shorten the knurle for the upper rear strap.
tappin.webp
 
Last edited:
Finding Center on a Convex Surface

Mount your size 4 center drill. Measure and clamp pin so that you will be drilling at the center of the pin length. Center a 6" steel rule over the pin. Gently bring the stopped center drill into contact with the steel rule. Adjust the pin position so that the ruler is perfectly horizontal. You've found center. That wasn't so hard was it? Rocket science. No really, this is how the big boys do it. You can get it gnats ass on with this technique. Center drill only down far enough to make a chamfer for the 1/16" drill. Use only the tip. Do not drill past the tip of the center drill. The object is to make a nice burr free hole. If you think you can perform this operation without using a center drill maybe you should put down that crack pipe cause you're high.
find top.webp
 
Last edited:
Drilling the Grease Port

replace the center drill with a 1/16" drill. Drill through to the center. Don't go runnin to your Mamma..........just to center, not all of the way through the whole damn pin. Guess what? You just made a pin.
drillpin2.webp
 
Installing the Zerks

Use the same technique described in tapping the pin to install your grease zerks. Why, well just like the tapping operation, if you clamp the pin and then apply enough torque to spin the pin inside the clamp, scrap. Wondering why all this heaping pile oh, just about every one of um, yep you guessed it. I call it research. Makes me feel better about that big heap of steamin scrap I made.
 
Weight bushings

Wait, you're not quite ready to assemble yet. Now you have to get some weight bushings. Run down to the hardware store and pick some 5/8" outside diameter nylon, teflon, mylar (IDK) washers. The ones I got were 0.032" thickness (found some mylar 0.016"). I could not find any that had an inside diameter of 3/8" so I hole punched their centers to 3/8". You also should pick up some thinner washers with the same diameter so that you will be able to assemble the hinges with the appropriate clearances.
 
Last edited:
Assembling the Hinges

Now you are finally ready to start assembling the hinges. Oh ya, like I did this, did you know you can asseemble the hinges incorrectly? Well me too! Test clearance between stay strap, washers and hinge strap. Better to have a little slop, if too tight (use thinner washers) it will be very hard to introduce grease. Slide your pin into the strap. Install thrust washers on both sides of the hinge as you push the pin through. Drive pin to final position. Install and positon zerk fitting. Set lower hinge pins with 1/2" long 1/4-28 allen set screws. And just when you thought the niggly was behind you, set the upper hinge pins with 1/4" long 1/4-28 allen set screws. I had to grind my set screws so that they would sit flush to below flush. Treat the screws with loctite blue before driving them home. The picture shows my method of setting pins and my brassy, ah it just isn't the same. Now where is that picture of my 3lb.............
drivepin1.webp
 
Last edited:
Testing Assembled Hinges

Pivot hinge through its' range of motion. Couple potential problems. If you did not perform the drilling operations accurately, there might be binding due to misalignment. Another possible is weight washers that are too thick. If the washers are too snug and cause any resistance, replace them with thinner washers. It is important to leave a liittle gap to allow the easy introduction of grease to the hinge.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom