Fj-55 Door Hinge Rebuild With Grease Fitting

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rsbcruiser

rsbcruiser

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This thread will demonstrate a method to rebuild your fj-55 door hinges. The unique feature of this technique is the adoption of grease fittings to provide lubrication. I suggest not going out and buying tools and materials until you know exactly what you will need. The thread will be written so that it will be clear when and what you need to purchase. I have asked n2666s and OregonCruzer to provide input by going thru the steps needed to rebuild hinges with me. I do this with the hope that they will ask the questions I have overlooked and bring more clarity to the subject. Motivation? Hi my name is Earl, karma, chi, pay it forward, whatever. Is this a great site or what? It is the cats ass!
upperdrhinge1.webp
 
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Can I do this? just looking at the pictures or reading thru

Have you ever hand reamed F-engine rocker bearings? Do you own a drill press and a drilling vice? Do you have some machining experience? Toyota call outs for their rocker shaft to rocker bearing is 0.0004" to 0.001". Four tenths to a thousanth on an inch dia. (going off memory). Replacement hinge pin size is 3/8". Smaller means tighter call outs here so just guessing but bet it is 0.0002" to 0.0005". Two tenths to half thou.. My way of saying it is easy to end up with s****ped (ha ha, computer thinks I'm a cursin) hinges if you are not careful. Still game? I intend to write this thread so that you will be able to avoid some of the pitfalls I've found. Not afearin yet, then read on.
 
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Should I do this?

Cost? You can purchase rebuilt FJ-55 door hinges for about $40 each. Rebuild kits will cost much less but you still have to do some work. I am guessing it will cost you around $100 to complete (all eight hinges) this job IF you already have most of the tooling. There are risks involved, you will be removing material from the stay strap. Other procedures probably don't require material removal from the stay. Therefore, your hinges will be weaker than stock. Don't kid yourself here, Toyota castings on my rig (74) are well.... how should I say this, not the best. Just picture your massive LC door tumbling down the highway toward that Prius. Consider fully and minimize the risk involved by removing the least amount of material possible and fully inspecting your hinge castings.
 
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Right on! I'll be startin once I get my goodies :grinpimp:
 
n2666s, Oregoncruzer, I mailed the pins today. Total shipping cost is $6. Guess you guys are off the hook, not worth turning in to a collection agency, haha. I plan on starting on the physical work on maybe Sunday or Monday. I will start by removing and breaking the hinges. Don't sweat timing. I found out you can cut in with your comments at any point and time you choose.Oh and Lou, yep that is what we use for packing up here in the NW. Allergic to curry, brown sugar, salt or salmon? Doubt it spoiled, but could be possible (No msg) give it a wiff, that will tell you.
 
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rsbcruiser said:
n2666s, Oregoncruzer, I mailed the pins today. Total shipping cost is $6. Guess you guys are off the hook, not worth turning in to a collection agency, haha. Oh and Lou, yep that is what we use for packing up here in the NW. Allergic to curry, brown sugar, salt or salmon? Doubt it spoiled, but could be possible (No msg) give it a wiff, that will tell you.
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Lemme know what you drink and I'll have a six pack here waiting on your next jaunt to Lake creek or other points south! :grinpimp::cheers:
 
Hinge Pin with Grease Fitting

The zerk in the picture is a thread in type. Skip threading the pin and use the 3/16" drive in type of zerk if possible. Liven and a learnin. You know, now that I think about it, the 1/4 28 zerk doesn't seem such a bad idea on the 3/8" pin. it must be a bear to get one of those 3/16" driven zerks back out if it fails. Better yet, use the high quality zerks. Serious, there are some pathetic zerk fittings on the market. Update: Looks like you will have to use 1/4-28 zerks, at least for the Upper Rear hinges.
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That, and what will you use to chamfer the holes and ends?
 
n2666s said:
the notched jaws are the *****, mine are serrated and have not run across one with notched jaws last 20 minutes of searching ...GRRRRRRRRRRRR
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No worries Lou. You only need a drilling vice if you are going to make your own pins. I am sure the vice you have will be fine for the rest of the tasks involved. This is great guys, it is already working better than I thought. I am already making changes to the original text because of your recent comments. Makes everything clearer I hope.
 
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OregonCruzer said:
That, and what will you use to chamfer the holes and ends?
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No worries mate (gotta love that Auzzy slang, guess they say it "mite" like "No worries mite") U uns be closing mits around solution to that problem. Refer to definitions, picture, pin w/grease fitting, yessiry, mits around dose of them. Poof skip to breaking hinge section. Found out I can change about anything I enter in this thread so watch for that. Cool huh!
 
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Weldon and Chamfer Tool

The Weldon is closest to the 6" satin finish spring steel rule Starrett (oh baby!). I like the Weldon. Easy to resharpen and is less prone to burring parts.
weldon1.webp
 
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Method

Or the Southern Engineer versus The BSME. Look folks, I developed this operation with the tools at hand. If you are a BSME and or sitting on a fat machine shop full of lathes well forget about it, skip right to pin sizes 0.00025" or so under common reamer sizes with let me see how about say super acraloy or take your pick cobalt stainless sweet! Knock yourself out! Therfore, the SE done juss kick your hiney boy, cuzz he done it so average Joe could have a go using easy to get and cheap pin stock (drill rod, oil hardened). Be as it may, if you do it using a variation you feel is an improvement of any kind and included it in this thread, I would be grateful. One alternate method that bears mentioning here, knurling your pins. A hand knurling tool can be purchased for maybe $100. Cartoon attached for your amusement.
pincartoon1.webp
 
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