Fj-55 Door Hinge Rebuild With Grease Fitting
- Thread starter rsbcruiser
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- Thread starter
- #23
Lusting after my vice Lou? I'm Kinda ol fashioned that way. Keep your mits off of her. You do know that the pins I am sending you are finished? Sorry, sometimes it takes me awhile to figure things out. You are going to make pins anyways, right? I forget that some of you guys have more than one Landcruiser. Kinda ol fashioned that way too. Slut! Okay, maybe a little jealousy. Your vice might be able to do this part if it has the right type of removable jaws. You might be able to buy another set of notched jaws that bolt on. If your vice is sloppy then there are ways to deal with that. I like to use this particular vice for its' quick release feature. The machine ops. we will be doing don't require alot of clamping force. I don't know how much time you have spent in a real toy store. Here in cold swamp Or. I get my machine tools from Hall tool and Palm Abrasive. The guys down at Hall are great and help me out all of the time with the part sticking above the Carharts. Palm has everything. I am betting Tuscaloosa is big enough to merit these types of Vendors. That particular vice design is relatively common. I'm betting you can track one down easy. Might have to shell out a couple hundred for a good one. Last time I was in Harbor Freight they had a McCheesmo version for mega cheap.
I'm down with McCheesemo ;p. That part is possibly the one I'm missing. I'll have to check the shop on Monday...
thanks for the pins
very little in machine shop items or suppliers here in Tuscaloosa........have a HD and a Lowes but that is it.......have been burned on harbor freight "bargains" like their 157 drill bits for 17$ that won't drill through preserved wood
, better to get one good bit than a great big box of useless crap!.............and yes, am lusting after your drill vise
still haven't given me her phone number..... I mean brand and model 
Lou
very little in machine shop items or suppliers here in Tuscaloosa........have a HD and a Lowes but that is it.......have been burned on harbor freight "bargains" like their 157 drill bits for 17$ that won't drill through preserved wood, better to get one good bit than a great big box of useless crap!.............and yes, am lusting after your drill vise still haven't given me her phone number..... I mean brand and model Lou
- Thread starter
- #26
You know, as far as the brand and model of the vice goes, I just can't tell you because there are no identifying marks. It is an oldy. My Grand and his Brother were into Craftsman way back. Alot of my stuff comes from them. Ya, know what you mean about Harbor Frieght and cheesy drillls. Boys down at Hall set me up with some Triumph 110 degree tip stuff. Drills like a dream. Since getting tools is more difficult for you, you might want to get started on some of the other tools you will need. I would suggest picking up a #4 center drill and an adjustable reamer with the large size being 3/8. Another item you might consider is a 9.5 mm twist drill. You will need to drill your hinge strap and stay strap to a slightly less than 3/8 ID. The 9.5mm should give you a 0.001" to work with. The U drill size leaves too much material but if you have a U in your box already it will do the trick. If you have a really good hardware store around they might be able to help. Maybe Grainger. Keep in mind that there isn't any real time frame to sweat. I am hoping to get around to actally starting the job Sunday. Monday, I will be picking up tooling and drill rod. So Monday might be a good day to get your stuff too. if worse comes to worse I mght ship small stuff I get here for you. As far as seeing any more pictures of the vice you can forget about it until I see one of your girls. With the doors closed, you know, tasteful. Frontal shot, no bra!thanks for the pins
Lou
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Pretty interesting mod.
- Thread starter
- #28
Breakng the Hinge
You have your door hinges off your rig and are ready to break the hinges. The way you accomplish this task depends more on the equipment you have at hand than my opinion. So show your pin press. A couple of suggestions, drive the pin out knurle first, easier that way. How do you tell? I believe the end of the pin that is flush to the top of the stay strap is the knurled side. Also consider the loads you will be putting on the stay strap when you press the pin out. If the stock load bushings (washers between the stay stap and the hinge strap) are worn or downright missing in action you can wedge a homemade washer wedgey duhicky in there, consider it insurance. Demonstrated for your amusement, my method, yep, you guessed it, the three pound drilling hammer makes another appearance! Now you know the truth, this hole damn thread is just another excuse to throw another picture of my 3lb drilling hammer at you. Refering to the picture of the hinge now. The Drivers side upper rear hinge best illistrates the correct direction to drive your pins. Notice the notched stay, designed that way to make room for the factory pressing operation. As pressed from the factory, the opposite side of the pin should stick above the stay like a nipple. Smack the nipple side. There, beat that horse dead. Time to move on.
You have your door hinges off your rig and are ready to break the hinges. The way you accomplish this task depends more on the equipment you have at hand than my opinion. So show your pin press. A couple of suggestions, drive the pin out knurle first, easier that way. How do you tell? I believe the end of the pin that is flush to the top of the stay strap is the knurled side. Also consider the loads you will be putting on the stay strap when you press the pin out. If the stock load bushings (washers between the stay stap and the hinge strap) are worn or downright missing in action you can wedge a homemade washer wedgey duhicky in there, consider it insurance. Demonstrated for your amusement, my method, yep, you guessed it, the three pound drilling hammer makes another appearance! Now you know the truth, this hole damn thread is just another excuse to throw another picture of my 3lb drilling hammer at you. Refering to the picture of the hinge now. The Drivers side upper rear hinge best illistrates the correct direction to drive your pins. Notice the notched stay, designed that way to make room for the factory pressing operation. As pressed from the factory, the opposite side of the pin should stick above the stay like a nipple. Smack the nipple side. There, beat that horse dead. Time to move on.
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- Thread starter
- #29
Hey Lou, starting the Job today. I have a whole host of other issues. Cracked block, valve gap, oil change, leaking manifold gasket and of course the hinges. I pulled the driver side back door last night. First real look at it. There are clearance issues with the back door upper hinges. I think I can make it work with either a 90 or 45 1/4-28 zerk and replacing the hex head pillar mount screw with an allen head. Watch for the changes above. I will be sqeezing the hinge job in between everything else so will try and get pics as I go.
- Thread starter
- #30
Stay
This picture shows the rear drivers side upper hinge stay. The part of the stay around the pin is known as the stay strap.
This picture shows the rear drivers side upper hinge stay. The part of the stay around the pin is known as the stay strap.
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- Thread starter
- #31
Hinge
This picture shows the hinge. The area around the pin is known as the hinge strap. I know, put the hinge together with the stay and a pin, guess what you have, a hinge? I didn't event this stuff, just trying to alleviate any confusion.
This picture shows the hinge. The area around the pin is known as the hinge strap. I know, put the hinge together with the stay and a pin, guess what you have, a hinge? I didn't event this stuff, just trying to alleviate any confusion.
- Thread starter
- #32
Determining wear
This picture illistrates two possible methods for checking your hinge wear. You can use a drill gauge to find the ultimate wear diameter by comparing it to the hole in the hinge strap. If the original plastic bushing is still present, remove it. If the hinge is not beat to hell, the hole size minus the bushing should be about 0.370". If you are a little spoiled brat then go on use your calipers for this job.
This picture illistrates two possible methods for checking your hinge wear. You can use a drill gauge to find the ultimate wear diameter by comparing it to the hole in the hinge strap. If the original plastic bushing is still present, remove it. If the hinge is not beat to hell, the hole size minus the bushing should be about 0.370". If you are a little spoiled brat then go on use your calipers for this job.
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- Thread starter
- #33
Notes on development work
So here I am chagrined by my own assumptions. When I rebuilt the drivers door hinges, the plastic bushings were completely missing. I finally get around to the next door to rebuild the hinges of and low and behold, a plastic bushing (Toyota, what were you thinking?).
So here I am chagrined by my own assumptions. When I rebuilt the drivers door hinges, the plastic bushings were completely missing. I finally get around to the next door to rebuild the hinges of and low and behold, a plastic bushing (Toyota, what were you thinking?).
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- Thread starter
- #34
Decision Time
Okay, now you have all of your hinges off and have determined they are salvagable. Time to make some decisions and spend a little money. First, go out and pick up a 3 foot stick of 3/8" drill rod, oil hardened. While you are at it, grab a center drill size #4. And don't forget your adjustable hand reamer size 5A (11/32" to 3/8"). If you want to get all of that rust out prior to reaming then pick up a 9.5 mm (0.374") to clean up the hole in the hinge strap. The 9.5 mm makes life easier because you end up only a thousanth or so under size. Now would be a good time to decide if you are going to knurle your pins or go with the technique I am using here (drilling and tapping the back of your stay straps). If you plan on knurling then, this is a good time to pick up that hand knurling tool you always wanted. Can I borrow it after you are done? if you are not going to knurle then pick up some 1/4-28 1/4" long allen set screws, 1/2 inchers too. Eight each. There are other tools you will need such as a tap and appropriate drill sizes, on and on. I don't mention them here under the assumption that they are already in your box. If you are resourceful then I bet there is pin stock out there of the appropriate diameter to make this a machine reamer (fixed dia) job.
Okay, now you have all of your hinges off and have determined they are salvagable. Time to make some decisions and spend a little money. First, go out and pick up a 3 foot stick of 3/8" drill rod, oil hardened. While you are at it, grab a center drill size #4. And don't forget your adjustable hand reamer size 5A (11/32" to 3/8"). If you want to get all of that rust out prior to reaming then pick up a 9.5 mm (0.374") to clean up the hole in the hinge strap. The 9.5 mm makes life easier because you end up only a thousanth or so under size. Now would be a good time to decide if you are going to knurle your pins or go with the technique I am using here (drilling and tapping the back of your stay straps). If you plan on knurling then, this is a good time to pick up that hand knurling tool you always wanted. Can I borrow it after you are done? if you are not going to knurle then pick up some 1/4-28 1/4" long allen set screws, 1/2 inchers too. Eight each. There are other tools you will need such as a tap and appropriate drill sizes, on and on. I don't mention them here under the assumption that they are already in your box. If you are resourceful then I bet there is pin stock out there of the appropriate diameter to make this a machine reamer (fixed dia) job.
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- Thread starter
- #35
Clean and Inspect
Now that you have determined that the hinges are salvagable, clean them up. Inspect the areas around the hinge and stay straps for cracks and flaws. No, this pic is not blurry, you really should cut back on the inhalants Jack.
Now that you have determined that the hinges are salvagable, clean them up. Inspect the areas around the hinge and stay straps for cracks and flaws. No, this pic is not blurry, you really should cut back on the inhalants Jack.
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- Thread starter
- #36
Notes on the Adjustable Hand Reamer
Adjustable reamers usually don't adjust down much if any below their lowest size. On the other hand, they will adjust several thousanth over their maximum size. Even further but don't go there. This is the reason behind purchasing one with a maximum size of the hole diameter we are after. The hinge strap is going to end up slightly larger than the 3/8" pin. Your adjustable hand reamer should accomadate this size with ease.
Adjustable reamers usually don't adjust down much if any below their lowest size. On the other hand, they will adjust several thousanth over their maximum size. Even further but don't go there. This is the reason behind purchasing one with a maximum size of the hole diameter we are after. The hinge strap is going to end up slightly larger than the 3/8" pin. Your adjustable hand reamer should accomadate this size with ease.
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- Thread starter
- #37
How to tell if your hinges are shot
Open your door just slightly. Lift the door up from the handle. If the door moves and the body doesn't, your hinges are shot.
Open your door just slightly. Lift the door up from the handle. If the door moves and the body doesn't, your hinges are shot.
Darn, sounds like hinges are just the begining of you problems, at least my piggy seems to be purring mechanically.........cracked block. ouch!.........like the idea of a 90 or 45 Degreee zerk, makes it a lot easier to fit the grease gun..........am using my daughters lap top, my PC is dead, there are a couple of pix of "Rusty" on the floorboard thread...........no Grainger here either, it is a shame but in the last 5-7 years or so several old time but very fine machine shops have closed and all their equipment has been either hauled off to India or China.........equipment that was considered obsolete including some lovely bridgeport millers and monarch/southbend lathes went to the scrappers...........this same situation must be happening all over this country!
Lou
Lou
just finished doing both DD hinges on the piggy used the $OR replacements that I had already bought before this thread came about
, had lots of play and used the lift the door and if it wiggles but the body stays the same then the hinges are junk technique.......yes, both were...........problem is other three doors need fixin also!......by the way, what are you thinking about inserting in between the hinge and stay strap? originally there were some plastic bushings.....and am lost when you are talking allen set screws, are you thinking you need them to hold the pin in place?
Lou
, had lots of play and used the lift the door and if it wiggles but the body stays the same then the hinges are junk technique.......yes, both were...........problem is other three doors need fixin also!......by the way, what are you thinking about inserting in between the hinge and stay strap? originally there were some plastic bushings.....and am lost when you are talking allen set screws, are you thinking you need them to hold the pin in place?Lou
- Thread starter
- #40
I am dying laughing right now. When I did my DD no plastic hinge bushing present. Thought that they were pin on cast iron all this time. Today I had a close look at my DR hinges, finally saw the plastic bushing. Now! you tell me Lou. Too funny. What all this means is that there is now only one size to consider. Of course, it is possible to go above 3/8 but probably not a good idea. Anyway, I believe you asked what I planned to replace the plastic bushing with. Nothing, that is right, with the grease present, wear or rust should not be a problem. The cast iron surface of the hinge is actually a good bearing surface with lube. Hey Lou, Did you buy replacement hinges from SOR, not a rebuild kit? And they are junk? If so would you do me a solid? I am dying to know, did they drill out the Stay Strap? That is, can you see that they used a larger pin than stock? The stocker is 0.3125. The 1/4-28, 3/16 allen set screws are indeed used to hold the pins in place. I drilled the back of the stay strap, tapped 1/4-28 and set the screw threads with loctite blue. Paranoid about those pins dropping out. I was thinking that a set of vice grips would be able to make the knurles. Just crank em down on the last 1/2" of the pin. Maybe not have to drill and tap the stay. There has got to be natonal tool supplier out there that does the internet. I will look into it. Anyways, I should have another set of hinges complete tommorrow. And fresh pictures to complete the thread with. If your SOR built hinges are junk, then you will be happy with the results of this technique. Honest, mine are tight as a virgin. Ouch, rip my heart out talking about Monarchs and Bridgports, ran and appreciated both. I they start s****ping Hardinge lathes, and Tree Mills then it's WAR baby.just finished doing both DD hinges on the piggy used the $OR replacements that I had already bought before this thread came about
Lou
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